Hey dementia, what about screwing a piece of flat strap on top of the filter(to the rubber) from front to back with pre-drilled holes every inch. Then you could just move it back and forth with 2 bolts. When you get it where you need it, use riv-nuts and loctite the bolts in. Let us know how far they end up from the the maf wires. Thanks, adown

 

Well I've got my Wideband A/F gauge on order so in another couple weeks I'll be able to finish things up and get to testing. If it turns out to run too rich then I've got an idea for another adjustable bracket using the 2 holes I've drilled through. Basically I'd have two long bars holding the brackets sticking through a slit I'd cut into the rubber towards the back. The bars would have pre drilled holes like you said so i can move them closer and further from the maf. I'd prob have to tie the ends that stick out of the back of the lid together with a cross beam but it shouldnt be a problem and if I do it right I should be able to keep it fairly un noticeable.

 

Since this thread came back up though I've got a question for you all. I guess I'm supposed to be shooting for an A/F of 11.5-11.8 on spray right? What would you guys recommend for me, testing wise, since my setup is kind of trekking through uncharted territory? The smallest jets I have are the 75hp (total). I was thinking of putting in those jets and spraying on the backroads testing out different nozzle locations till I get within that range. The thing I'm not sure of though is if I get an 11.5 A/F with the 75 jets, will the A/F be 11.5 when I jump up to 100 shot? Should I just do all this testing on a dyno that can monitor A/F to confirm my gauge and watch for KR at the same time?

 

Any results?

 

i like it, but i think it needs to be a tad further away from the maf.

looks trick tho, you get 2 thumbs up for sure.

 

Thanks, I took a break from workin on it, i know I'm dragging ***. Just got in the wideband today and will be ordering my window switch and bottle heater probably tomorrow. few more weeks and it should be all done

 

i've been waiting for results on this for a while. so i did a similar setup last night and the results weren't good. i think you will get a lean spike and not get the hit registered.
i made my nozzles angle a little at each other to get them to slighltly hit each other and make a small plume. they totally missed the iat since the temp didn't lower by much in WOT. the maf frequency didn't hit much higher than NA, maybe 100hz more when it should be 4-600 more, so it wasn't registering the hit. dynamic cylinder airmass didn't go past normal NA which is around .70-.79 for me. with a good hit, it should see .9 for an 80 shot.
afr leaned to 15+ but less than 16 for 1.5 seconds, then goes down to roughly 12.0 which is the NA afr tune. that lean 15+ is the second worse afr that i've seen on nitrous and i've tried many locations under the lid. the worse spot to put a nozzle is 4 inches back from where you have yours in post #20 because i got afr to go 19+ on a 50 shot, bogged my car and i'm lucky nothing broke.

the best bracket i've done is like this [_______](back view) about 3" from the filter end closest to the engine.

\========/(top view) the angled sides are very slight, maybe 10-15* and the nozzles shoot at each other. distance from nozzles was 5-6". the nozzles would shoot at each causing a plume about 3 inches center from they're location. and about 2-3 inches from the maf. center of nozzles were 3/4-1" above the air filter.
this got me a good looking afr, maf hz, and iat registered. there was a slight lean spot for less than 1 second when going WOT which was 13.5-13.0 or so until it would go down to 12.5-12.0 or so.
i'm pretty sure i netted 80hp on the 80hp jets so it looks like a good location but now, i'm trying to go 2 stage and have to change things up. i have a few ideas that hopefully i can test soon.

 

Thanks for posting results. Please post pics as I'm sure others as well as me would like to see them. Sorry for taking so long on this. Found a deal on a bike that I couldnt refuse so the nitrous has yet again taken the back burner.

 

my NA 1/4 should be right around 13.4 and with the 80 shot and that \===/ bracket i posted about took me down to 12.713 with 3k to 5500 rpm pills but i was manually activating it when i felt that i got good traction which i'm thinking was somewhere around 4200-4800 rpms(i can't tell because the scan i have just jumps rpms within 2 tenths of a second.

i didn't like the location of the bracket because i was running leaner than my NA tune which is around 12.0 afr and that 12.713 run was mostly around 12.5-12.7 afr.

i tried a few brackets and none of them have been working so i went back to the old \===/ bracket and moved it closer to the maf. it's about 1" away from the filter end nearest the maf. but this time my inj DC was choppy and ugly looking on a few 50mph+ rolls but when i made a roll from 19mph it looked better with only a lean spike of 13.2-13.0 for 6 tenths of a second. the afr was around 12.0 for the most part with a couple of inclines up to 12.5 and back down to around 12.0. most of my scanner numbers look good except for the inj DC looking wavy.
i'm not sure what to make of it right now and need further testing. and on top of this i began hearing a misfire at idle after my last nitrous log tonight. i don't have any performance noticability issues NA. plugs were changed less than 2k miles ago.

i've got plenty of info on bad nozzle location and angle but none of a good hidden location that i am willing to keep permanent. i'll start a topic when i can find a good hidden location for the nozzles. shitty but i think i'm done with going to the track or doing launches from a stop for a while because i don't want to have to replace a trans so most of my info will be logs of rolls which won't be the same.

 

Here's a nozzle location thread for some insight.
Nozzle thread
Robert