Progressive controller for big noids
02-12-2007, 03:34 PM
#41
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Originally Posted by NXRICKY
IF your wire that is connecting to the noids is not of the right size, or you have an iffy ground. You will introduct a voltage drop. The nitrous noids coils are lower voltage coils then the fuel. The fuel noid may not open IF you introduce a large enough drop to take it out of its spec voltage.
Also once a coil in activated and deactivate it creates a back voltage flow. So the progressive is cycle on and off on and off. The noid will only close if the magnetic feild has collapse. If the off voltage time is not enough for the feild to collapse the noid will appear to remain opened. The nitrous noids collapse could give enough back voltage to keep the fuel noid open just long enough to have the ON power hit it again. All the time the magnetic field is trying to collapse but there is enough power that if appears to remain open. Just like a fuel injector in peak and hold. It takes a good amount of power to open, but very little to maintain open.
Hope I did not butcher that too bad.
Ricky
Also once a coil in activated and deactivate it creates a back voltage flow. So the progressive is cycle on and off on and off. The noid will only close if the magnetic feild has collapse. If the off voltage time is not enough for the feild to collapse the noid will appear to remain opened. The nitrous noids collapse could give enough back voltage to keep the fuel noid open just long enough to have the ON power hit it again. All the time the magnetic field is trying to collapse but there is enough power that if appears to remain open. Just like a fuel injector in peak and hold. It takes a good amount of power to open, but very little to maintain open.
Hope I did not butcher that too bad.
Ricky
02-12-2007, 04:27 PM
#42
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GTO forum guy did. The nitrous wire and fuel wire were not connected at the same point, and where going throu to small of a wire. Hence his fuel did not open. Maybe equal length wrong term, same connection point.
You are cycleing the ground side, but amps are still flowing. This is what I mean buy the volts having the power to keep opening.
Never tested nos controllers. did install one once. And could not figure out why that double relay thing was in there. At that time one relay did nothing at all to the function of the system.
It will all come down to quality of connection points, wire. Not sure on the sepatate circuits, if they are completely independent of each other or not. but both wires are connected to point was my understanding.
You are cycleing the ground side, but amps are still flowing. This is what I mean buy the volts having the power to keep opening.
Never tested nos controllers. did install one once. And could not figure out why that double relay thing was in there. At that time one relay did nothing at all to the function of the system.
It will all come down to quality of connection points, wire. Not sure on the sepatate circuits, if they are completely independent of each other or not. but both wires are connected to point was my understanding.
02-12-2007, 04:32 PM
#43
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They are both on one circuit, thats the way this controller is set up to be wired. Im assuming the controller is just too weak to pulse the fuel noid..? But why is it staying open?
02-12-2007, 04:45 PM
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It is staying open becuase there is power and ground at the noid, enough to open and enough to stay open. Got any pictures of the install I can look at?
02-12-2007, 05:24 PM
#46
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This is with the install almost finished. Ill post a couple more too.
Originally Posted by scapaldo
Heres what I mean by staggered. The fuel noid is now connected to the red splitter on the firewall. The N2O noid is in the wiper tray feeding the distribution block via the black line from the bulkhead. The bulkhead on the far left on the firewall is the 2nd stage, ingore that though.
02-12-2007, 05:41 PM
#48
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Not really, but all the connections are triple checked. The Progressive unit is only 4 wires. Power, ground, Window Switch In, Out to solenoids.
I actually removed all the crimp connectors and soldered everything at one point because I though that might have been a problem.
The split in the noid wiring is on the left where it passes through the wiper tray.
I actually removed all the crimp connectors and soldered everything at one point because I though that might have been a problem.
The split in the noid wiring is on the left where it passes through the wiper tray.
02-12-2007, 07:25 PM
#49
Originally Posted by scapaldo
I actually wanted to do a direct port dry setup initially but I dont have a precise enough way to compensate with fuel.
Sorry for not getting back to the thread, but was out racing all weekend, or most of it. Anyway, I think Ricky and srsnow have covered about everything. Can you draw out how you have it wired, then post a pic? Might help some, as diagnostics over the web can be tricky. Sounds to me like the controller, or the noid? Have another noid to try?
Robert
Last edited by Robert56@NitrousDirect; 02-12-2007 at 07:38 PM.
02-12-2007, 07:57 PM
#50
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Im 90% sure its the controller. Im going to order another one once someone sends me some wiring diagrams on that big ugly blue box. 
I would have gone stand alone but theres a great program for the factory ecu Ive been using and didnt want to spend the extra $ and time tuning. The car is so mildly set up off the spray, ~380 awhp, that the standalone would end up bieng somewhat redundant. The only drawback of the software I have now is the inability to compensate the nitrous with fuel. I dont think theres too much of a difference in dry vs. wet Direct Port. Im not tuning individual cylinders here.
I would have gone stand alone but theres a great program for the factory ecu Ive been using and didnt want to spend the extra $ and time tuning. The car is so mildly set up off the spray, ~380 awhp, that the standalone would end up bieng somewhat redundant. The only drawback of the software I have now is the inability to compensate the nitrous with fuel. I dont think theres too much of a difference in dry vs. wet Direct Port. Im not tuning individual cylinders here.
02-14-2007, 11:40 AM
#53
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his first torque converter was built too tight and it got eaten in a couple weeks, he has rebuilt that trans a 100 times, not because the trans is weak he had a bad alternator and was the cause of 3 years worth of electrical problems we could never sort out.
02-14-2007, 11:51 AM
#54
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TC's and Transmissions are finicky in these cars. If you do the right mods they last a long time. I used my stock trans with only a shift kit and full line pressure down to 10.7 at 126. The trans recently let go of 3rd on the dyno at about 500whp. A larger clutch basket was installed when I rebuilt it and it should handle the spray. Still on the stock converter.
02-21-2007, 04:05 PM
#55
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Got the ND controller and Im still having problems.
It outputs +12v through the solenoid ground wires at all times. I disconnected everything but the +12v in and it still outputs 12v to the SG wires constantly.
Ill upload a drawing of how I had it wired
It outputs +12v through the solenoid ground wires at all times. I disconnected everything but the +12v in and it still outputs 12v to the SG wires constantly.
Ill upload a drawing of how I had it wired
02-21-2007, 04:54 PM
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yeppers. Man did you contact the mfg. about the problem in detail.?
Without knowing the ins and outs of that box I'm lost. Sorry I could not help.
Ricky
Without knowing the ins and outs of that box I'm lost. Sorry I could not help.
Ricky