yeah...slap the plugs in...but dont run it again jetted at what you have now. Your DANGEROUSLY LEAN.
Also...it looks like your nozzle is turned a little bit. Be sure its pointed PERFECTLY at the center of your intake or TB.

Get control of that AF ratio first and foremost. I would say 11.2-11.8. Anything outside that and your not running it properly IMO.

Also...when you do make another run (WITH THE LARGER FUEL JET!) be sure that you see a change in the AF ratio that reflects the larger jet. If you make another run with a larger fuel jet and AF ratio line looks nearly identical to your last run...you have a fuel delivery issue. maybe a stuck solinoid or a ground issue for the fuel noid or a blocked line or something.

Also...IMO you should only be doing this on a dyno with a wideband to look for feedback for changes in AF ratio.

 

I have to agree with what you guys are saying here.

However I made sure my nozzle is perfectly pointed towards the throttle body. That's just the angle of the picture that is making it look like that.

I will get it on a dyno with a larger fuel jet and see what happens.


Maybe you guys can help me understand, but why does a car have a puddle of fuel in the intake if its to LEAN? I would think if there was excess fuel in the intake that their is obviously TOO much fuel being thrown into it.

How come this isn't the case?

 

On wet shot liquid fuel is sprayed into a structure that is designed only to move air. Fuel inevitably will remain in the intake if you open it up right after spraying. As a matter of fact many cars will have a slight stumble just after spraying due to excess fuel that remains in the intake. A few revs of the motor after spraying will take care of that. Its not unusual. Now again...if your getting a 6 ounces of fuel sitting on the bottom of the intake...thats another story. But a 1/8 ounce of left over fuel will appear to be ALOT of fuel spread out on the interior of an intake, but its no unusual. So I cant be there to see what the fuel looks like...but most likely its normal.

I am still not 100% certain that the leaness is just due to a pill change. You have what should be the correct pills in place but you are WAY lean. But you do get graduclly richer as the rpm gets around 6000+. I am concerned about this as well. You may end up finding a restriction in the fuel side of your system. A kinked or melted fuel line. A solinoid with a swelled plunger, ect etc.

The best thing you could do right now is take off the nitrous kit and go through it with a fine tooth comb. Maybe flow the jets on the fuel side. or atelast spray them into a bottle so you can observe. But this may be a bit beyond what you can do locally.

If you do run again...maybe you should start small again. Maybe the 75 shot again. But put the 100 fuel jet in. Try to get the Af ratio around 11.5 on the 75 shot nitrous pill. If you can achieve that...and have a flat Af line from activation to shutoff. .....then step up in shot size. Keeping the jets on the fuel side bigger to keep the Af in the 11.5 area.
Of course you may well find that changing jets has little effect on Af ratio. At that point youll need to look at the stuff I said above for blockages and proper operation.

 

Take that fuel hose off going to your nozzle and blow through it. Check the one feeding your solinoid too. It appears to be close to the exhaust manifold? Maybe its partially melted internally?

 

hmmmm what could I wrap the fuel line with to prevent that just in case that is the cause?

 

Man you need to troubleshoot this system. You are taking pot shots in every 4th thread. Even then, i'm not convinced you did a cyl pressure test when you said you had. I wish you luck. If it was me...i'd rip the system out completely and visually check every line, wire and noid. Then bring it to an expert and have them reinstall it. Remember, there is a reason for every failure. Use organized troubleshooting to solve the problem, not promices of $50.

 

Here is a picture of my solenoids....could it be anything of how the shop angled that fuel solenoid how its angled backwards intead of straight up like the nitrous???

And I did have a shop install this kit that has intalled thousands of nitrous kits and work on imports all day long. I did not do this myself.

I checked all all the fuel lines they all look good. Help








And then here is a pic of under the car of the fuel line. It is a bigger stainless steel line that runs obviously to the fuel solenoid...

 

hey man toyota tech here... your running way way to lean you shouldnt be anywhere near that on a wot run.... you need to have it taken down and tuned on a dyno and have alot more fuel added down low... you richen up alot as you go through the run but at first stap you should see the graph drop (richen up) really quick look at any of the v8 guys graphs and you will see the WOT hit you can tell where it is some one post there dyno sheet so he can see what i am talkin about

 

so how do i richen up?

add a bigger fuel jet? Im going to try 75 shot but with a 100 fuel jet

Worth a shot? If not, what else can I do to lower my afr when first going WOT?

 

Is it because of my fuel solenoid not straight up?? In the picture I posted it has a harsh angle...

anybody know??

 

http://i173.photobucket.com/albums/w...itez06dyno.jpg

look at the link do you notice the a/f section do you see the drop on the graph it richens up as he went WOT you need more fuel in the tune get it tuned you need more fuel on the factory tune not the nitrous jet... the jet is right for the spray but you need to richen up the fuel on the injector side.... IE take it to s supra shop and have it tuned and they will get it set for you if you keep spraying it your gonna blow up your motor... just cause its a supra doesnt mean you can take more abuse your non turbo motor is not like the turboed one you have cast parts not forged you only got fforged with the turbo motors and if you keep spraying it lean its gonna let go trust me put alot of them in its not cheap

 

so you're saying I need bigger injectors. I have the fuel pump which is hotwired out of the way.

I just have a hard time believing its my injectors because the same situation even happens on a 75 shot an 100.

But if it is my injectors(which i'll find out soon with the afr on the dyno) I guess I could swap in some stock TT injectors which would work. As far as tuning....i would have to get a SAFCII or something to that extent...

 

You may not need bigger injectors. You may just need to tune what you have. The only reason you would need bigger injectors is if they are at a very high injector pulse width.

I would highly recomend spending some cash and taking it to a good Supra place that can do a base tune for you NA and then set up the rest of your nitrous as well.

As I said...you will pick up HP all motor as well. It would probably be worth it for you.
The other option is to just drive it NA...dont beat on it at all. Take a few months to read read read all about tuning for Supras and tuning for nitrous...get the basics down. get a game plan for your car....and then start over.
You have alot to learn...as most all of us did. You really need to get a good grip on the basics before you do what you are attempting now. Especially with the issues you are having with the car.

 

Untuned 100 shot Wet VS NA

 

Tune? Well, considering my car is basically stock, I would guess you are referring to a FMU fuel pressure regulator?

I dont have in mind any other way of tuning a factory component car....

 

However you guys tune a Supra? I dont know what options are available for you. Hopefully some type of tuning software that can adjust Af ratio. A regulator doesnt appear that it will correct the issue since you start of waaay too lean and then gradually get richer. A regulator will just adjust that AF line up or down....it wont change the shape or slope.

I was thinking more along the lines of reprogramming your PCM via some software.

 

I may be a nitrous newb...but I'm not a supra turbo newb. I'm aware how to tune a motor and the only way would be to get either a safcII fuel controller or spend thousands on a AEM stand alone system, which definately is not needed.

Before I tune anything...i need to see the REAL afr before the cats

My shop that deals with supras believes it will not surpass 12.0 ANYWHERE throughout the graph measured before the cats. I dont think my car is lean at all actually. I think maybe its too rich. My tuner said he thinks it even goes down to a flat 10.0 afr at high rpm of the graph and that its a possibility I'm spraying TOO MUCH fuel and its causing the puddling in the intake..

Guess I'll have to get a wideband in and see.

 

you may have a slight difference in AF ratio before and after cat. But I doubt it would make you read 17.0 to 1.
That aslo does no account for the ramping from very lean to rich. So if what you say was true...your either too lean in the lower rpm or too rich in the upper rpm. You have a swing of about 3-4 full points from low rpm to high. So no matter how you look at it your tune is off. If your Supra shop sais that at no point will your AF ratio ACTUALLY be above 12.0 to 1...then in the upper rpms you would be around 10 to 1 if you apply the same correction factor the shop is telling you. Again...a very bad tune in need of correction...through whatever means you have available.

And if all you have available is an SAFC then I guess thats your only option. You will never have a good AF ratio across the board until you get that under control NA or on nitrous. AF ratio line should be flat...not a slope.

The readings make no sense. Everything points lean lean lean. #1 the graph shows very lean especially at peak TQ (on nitrous), second being lean is a common cause of nitrous backfires.

You do the math.


Here is a quick little test for you. Close your nitrous bottle...purge out all nitrous in the line. Put the 50 shot in...go make a run with the nitrous on, spraying fuel only through one gear. If it stumbles on its face (which it should) and doesnt backfire...youll have your answer. You be about 8 to 1 af ratio and rich as can be.

People do this all the time to test thier fuel noid...and they dont backfire. Nitrous backfire is usually due to a lean condition.

 

so how do i do this then? When you say turn the nitrous on...you mean the switch right? I'm still keeping the bottle closed correct?

This is a great idea...i'll go try this today.

And I just bought like 50.00 iridium plugs for it...is it ok to try this with those plugs or will this idea foul them out????

 

I called him out on the same thing and he never responded. (same with you)
I'm going to just take a back seat and see how this thing rides out, he's obviously only wanting certain answers. There is something going on with the car on motor, and he's still trying to get his nitrous to work.

I have a friend with a N/A Supra that he turboed and he is running MAP ECU which is basically a safc on crack. He said that there are parameters in the program to tune for nitrous. He also said that going with a regular safc would be fine for your application though.

Good luck boss. Get it back on a dyno and dialed in on motor, and then start with a smaller shot and just keep your a/f where it needs to be 11.2-11.8 on bottle.