Guys Im back....50.00 paypaled to person who finds this nitrous backfire *UPDATES!!*
#61
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Originally Posted by ToyotaSupra
so how do i do this then? When you say turn the nitrous on...you mean the switch right? I'm still keeping the bottle closed correct?
This is a great idea...i'll go try this today.
And I just bought like 50.00 iridium plugs for it...is it ok to try this with those plugs or will this idea foul them out????
This is a great idea...i'll go try this today.
And I just bought like 50.00 iridium plugs for it...is it ok to try this with those plugs or will this idea foul them out????
If you just make one run with the fuel only it wont kill the plugs. Just rev it after you make the test to clear the fuel. Remember...do the test in one gear only...start with the car in second gear....bring the rpms up to about 3500...arm the system (with the nitrous shut off and purged) and then go WOT till about 6000. Then let off...disarm your nitrous and rev the engine to clear the fuel out. It will likley fall on its face....but not backfire. Be sure its only the 50 shot jets.
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Originally Posted by 383LQ4SS
If you just make one run with the fuel only it wont kill the plugs. Just rev it after you make the test to clear the fuel. Remember...do the test in one gear only...start with the car in second gear....bring the rpms up to about 3500...arm the system (with the nitrous shut off and purged) and then go WOT till about 6000. Then let off...disarm your nitrous and rev the engine to clear the fuel out. It will likley fall on its face....but not backfire. Be sure its only the 50 shot jets.
OK ****update****
Car works perfectly on 75 shot with a little larger fuel pill. Backfires on 100 shot(with 150 pill) and 125shot with(175 shot fuel pill)
I took out the fuel solenoid completely...took it to my local nitrous shop. They completely took it apart and there is nothing swollen or stuck. It looked perfect they said.
This brings me to 1 conclusion. The fuel filter has never been changed in this car and I didnt even think about that until today.
Considering my little rough idles I would suspect this filter is what is making my car so lean on the dyno. Even the stock run was so lean, which tells me it must be the filter. Or at least I'd hope. I talked to all the other previous owners of the car and none of them said they changed the filter.
So its time for a change.
What you guys think?
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Originally Posted by ToyotaSupra
OK ****update****
Car works perfectly on 75 shot with a little larger fuel pill. Backfires on 100 shot(with 150 pill) and 125shot with(175 shot fuel pill)
I took out the fuel solenoid completely...took it to my local nitrous shop. They completely took it apart and there is nothing swollen or stuck. It looked perfect they said.
This brings me to 1 conclusion. The fuel filter has never been changed in this car and I didnt even think about that until today.
Considering my little rough idles I would suspect this filter is what is making my car so lean on the dyno. Even the stock run was so lean, which tells me it must be the filter. Or at least I'd hope. I talked to all the other previous owners of the car and none of them said they changed the filter.
So its time for a change.
What you guys think?
Car works perfectly on 75 shot with a little larger fuel pill. Backfires on 100 shot(with 150 pill) and 125shot with(175 shot fuel pill)
I took out the fuel solenoid completely...took it to my local nitrous shop. They completely took it apart and there is nothing swollen or stuck. It looked perfect they said.
This brings me to 1 conclusion. The fuel filter has never been changed in this car and I didnt even think about that until today.
Considering my little rough idles I would suspect this filter is what is making my car so lean on the dyno. Even the stock run was so lean, which tells me it must be the filter. Or at least I'd hope. I talked to all the other previous owners of the car and none of them said they changed the filter.
So its time for a change.
What you guys think?
Cahnge the fuel filter for sure. But I doubt thats the issue. On every run you went from lean to rich. A clogged filter will always go from some point to leaner.
I have the feeling that when you get it to stop backfiring your just gonna call it good and continue spraying.
If you do that....youll be buying a new motor soon. I am actually getting the feeling youll be buying a new motor soon regardless of what anyone tells you.
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Originally Posted by 383LQ4SS
If you do that....youll be buying a new motor soon. I am actually getting the feeling youll be buying a new motor soon regardless of what anyone tells you.
#66
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thats my plan anyway
I could care less if this motor blows to tell you the truth. The main reason I bought this car was to do the 2jz-gte swap and I chose nitrous for this motor for a little fun in the meantime...thats all.
When I have my turbo motor, I'll just be using a 50 shot to help spool the 71 trim DBB
But anyway as far as updates
Installed new fuel filter. Car acted a lot different and idled different and liked to die upon start up. I guess it had to re-learn itself maybe since the one I took out was pretty clogged...
But tried 75 shot again it works fine
Then tried 100 and it backfired again.
Is it ok to run a -4 line from the fuel filter to the solenoid then I have a -3 exiting to the intake pipe?
And also I pulled the entire kit apart 2night and went through it all with my nitrous shop expert right there with me. He and I saw no problems throughout the system. No clogged lines, fuel solenoid is good and not swollen, and everything should be working right but its not.
What else is left to check???
What else could be causing the car to go lean???
I've talked with 4 supra owners with n/a's and they said they're all running 125 to 150 with no problems and NO TUNING!
So something is wrong here that were not catching...
I could care less if this motor blows to tell you the truth. The main reason I bought this car was to do the 2jz-gte swap and I chose nitrous for this motor for a little fun in the meantime...thats all.
When I have my turbo motor, I'll just be using a 50 shot to help spool the 71 trim DBB
But anyway as far as updates
Installed new fuel filter. Car acted a lot different and idled different and liked to die upon start up. I guess it had to re-learn itself maybe since the one I took out was pretty clogged...
But tried 75 shot again it works fine
Then tried 100 and it backfired again.
Is it ok to run a -4 line from the fuel filter to the solenoid then I have a -3 exiting to the intake pipe?
And also I pulled the entire kit apart 2night and went through it all with my nitrous shop expert right there with me. He and I saw no problems throughout the system. No clogged lines, fuel solenoid is good and not swollen, and everything should be working right but its not.
What else is left to check???
What else could be causing the car to go lean???
I've talked with 4 supra owners with n/a's and they said they're all running 125 to 150 with no problems and NO TUNING!
So something is wrong here that were not catching...
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I agree, Al has the patients of a saint!
Hey Toyota, What were your leak-down values? warm or cold?
Please don't avoid this post.
Hey Toyota, What were your leak-down values? warm or cold?
Please don't avoid this post.
Last edited by 860 Performance; 03-15-2007 at 06:33 AM.
#70
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wideband and fuel pressure gauge are going in it now as we speak
I'll know more in 24 hours.
Im thinking its a bad pump failure...considering I did buy it used with 130k miles on it.....
I'll know more in 24 hours.
Im thinking its a bad pump failure...considering I did buy it used with 130k miles on it.....
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its unlikely a pump. That is if those dyno graphs where after the pump install. All those AF graphs on those dyno pulls go from lean to richer. A bad pump, clogged filter etc will always go from rich to lean as rpm climbs.
Thw wideband is really what you need. i wouldnt do anything else until you get that wideband in. That way youll get good feedback very quickly and you can check things in rapid succesion. it will make the troubleshooting go much faster. And you can see what your actual AF ratio is.
Any chance your cat is clogged?
Thw wideband is really what you need. i wouldnt do anything else until you get that wideband in. That way youll get good feedback very quickly and you can check things in rapid succesion. it will make the troubleshooting go much faster. And you can see what your actual AF ratio is.
Any chance your cat is clogged?
#72
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Originally Posted by 383LQ4SS
its unlikely a pump. That is if those dyno graphs where after the pump install. All those AF graphs on those dyno pulls go from lean to richer. A bad pump, clogged filter etc will always go from rich to lean as rpm climbs.
Thw wideband is really what you need. i wouldnt do anything else until you get that wideband in. That way youll get good feedback very quickly and you can check things in rapid succesion. it will make the troubleshooting go much faster. And you can see what your actual AF ratio is.
Any chance your cat is clogged?
Thw wideband is really what you need. i wouldnt do anything else until you get that wideband in. That way youll get good feedback very quickly and you can check things in rapid succesion. it will make the troubleshooting go much faster. And you can see what your actual AF ratio is.
Any chance your cat is clogged?
those dyno graphs were on a STOCK PUMP
Not the aftermarket one I currently have installed.
Not sure about the cats being clogged...I can check that out too..
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Originally Posted by 860 Performance
I agree, Al has the patients of a saint!
Hey Toyota, What were your leak-down values? warm or cold?
Please don't avoid this post.
Hey Toyota, What were your leak-down values? warm or cold?
Please don't avoid this post.
-- I'm just here to watch now. And to applaud the true patience of Al.
#76
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Post #7 in your other thread was the first to post your issue, and entititled to the $50, you can send me a check, m/o or pay-pal, your choice. Thank you.
here's my quote:
Robert
here's my quote:
Puddling in the intake in of it self is not the source of your problem. Normally this will just cause a stumbling effect. However, if your having a lean condition or detonation these can lead to an ign source at the wrong time. this ign source ignites the fuel vapor and the backfire begins, then if there is puddled fuel this will add to the ever expanding back fire/explosion. So I would say it's more along the lines of running lean/detonation.
Robert
#77
Is there some type of sensor that is mounted after the nozel that is causing the car to go lean. If the car runs good on motor, and runs lean with the correct jets something is not right. I have personnaly seen 225hp worth of nitrous pushed through a 1989 stock non turbo supra. This was running NGK 8 heat range plugs, and two stages of nitrous. Them motors are very strong. I would take a look at the sensors that are in the intake after the fogger, and see if they could some how be detecting the abnormal conditions from the extra fuel and nitrous, and changing the fueling and or timing curves.
Other than that do a leak down test
Other than that do a leak down test
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Originally Posted by foggedz
Is there some type of sensor that is mounted after the nozel that is causing the car to go lean. If the car runs good on motor, and runs lean with the correct jets something is not right. I have personnaly seen 225hp worth of nitrous pushed through a 1989 stock non turbo supra. This was running NGK 8 heat range plugs, and two stages of nitrous. Them motors are very strong. I would take a look at the sensors that are in the intake after the fogger, and see if they could some how be detecting the abnormal conditions from the extra fuel and nitrous, and changing the fueling and or timing curves.
Other than that do a leak down test
Other than that do a leak down test
#79
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selling motor....time to save for gte...
No it did not blow. I'm just tired of this. Everybody is wrong. After the shop put in the wideband they noticed it could be several different things including a bad mas air flow meter and the wiring could be messed up they told me
Anyway I'm not paying the labor, thus, engine and tranny, ecu, all that jazz is now for sale. Thanks anyway guys.
No it did not blow. I'm just tired of this. Everybody is wrong. After the shop put in the wideband they noticed it could be several different things including a bad mas air flow meter and the wiring could be messed up they told me
Anyway I'm not paying the labor, thus, engine and tranny, ecu, all that jazz is now for sale. Thanks anyway guys.