Why do i keep on melting spark plugs????????
Originally Posted by SPRAYED 01
Last year i was on no standalon and no 100 octane and i had no problems for probably 30 bottles. Untill the last run of last year when i melted 2 and 5. And last year i was running 27 degrees. This is why i think something is faulty in the system.
Jim C.
maybe??? how old are your valve springs? I had a problems burning plugs too.... went to a better valve spring and it stopped, must have been getting some valve float in the upper rpm band.. I have pretty much the same set up as you, but I run NX 150 shot. good luck
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Interesting,becuase i did bend a couple valves last season due to improper spring pressure. Why do you think floating valves would cause plugs to burn up?
Because it happened to me, I actually burned an exhaust valve, before I realized it. Looked like someone hit the valve with a tourch. I guess the valve timing being off with the nitrous just causes some serious detonation.
hope this helps.
hope this helps.
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Im running crane dual springs. The problem i had last year was 2 intakes floated due to me not shimming the springs and having improper valve spring pressure. Now they are shimmed and i had about 135 pounds of pressure. On the dyno it did not look as if anything was floating. It pulled strong untill 6700.
weird... I believe the firing order for the LS1 is : 1 8 4 3 6 5 7 2
it is weird that all the plugs you have been melting are in order :5 7 2 then back to 1. maybe it has nothing to do with it but, it could be a distribution issue? maybe? I'm not sure just though I would share some thoughts.
it is weird that all the plugs you have been melting are in order :5 7 2 then back to 1. maybe it has nothing to do with it but, it could be a distribution issue? maybe? I'm not sure just though I would share some thoughts.
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Thanks for all the ideas. Im open to anything that will figure out this problem. I sent the fuel solenoid to tnt and they said it checked out fine. At this point i think im going to pull 2 more degrees of timing,activate the spray at 3800 instead of 3400 and us c16 fuel. If they still melt at that point i guess i need to look at the valve springs. Just sucks that i have to melt them to see if i still have the problem or not.
It isn't a timing issue. You aren't getting enough fuel. I would suggest going up on the fuel jet, or down on the nitrous jet. Its lean, and you're lucky if you haven't burnt a piston. Close the gap up a bit too. That is way too much gap.
I have another question.. kind of a dumb one, but needs to be asked anyway. What fuel pressure is your standalone running at? If it's not what the motor was supplying for fuel pressure to the nitrous system before, that could be the problem too. Those standalone setups have springs with them for high and low pressure, if you have the low pressure spring in it, that's your whole problem right there.
I'd check the fuel pressure of the nitrous system, see what it it compared to what the motor is/was when you were running it off the fuel rail, and go from there. I suspect that there is probably something there that could be causing some problems.
I'd check the fuel pressure of the nitrous system, see what it it compared to what the motor is/was when you were running it off the fuel rail, and go from there. I suspect that there is probably something there that could be causing some problems.
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Well that was a thought for me to. We had it at 54psi and it went really rich like 9to1. so we backed off pressure all the way down to 30psi. Then the afr was at about 10.9-11.5. it was weird because i was assuming the standalone would need to be at stock pressure..
The stand alone should be set to what ever psi the jetting is based off of. So let's say your jetting is based off of 50 psi, setting the stand alone to 50 psi will net the same A/F ratio as before (unless before the stock in tank was failing and you were running lean). So let's say you verified the psi and set it correctly, if you are going very rich one of two things to look at, the pressure gauge on the stand alone being off, therefore the pressure being off, or the wideband on the dyno being off.
Matt
Matt
