SS6ixSpeed

Before I finish wiring the kit, I'd like some opinions on this. I have the dual fan nozzles mounted on the open element K&N FIPK and directed toward each other. My concern is... being that it's an open element filter, how much nitrous will be lost before being sucked in by the MAF. I have 125 jets in it now but before spraying, I'll start with the 75s on a wideband dyno.

The first image is one of the fan nozzles.

Beer99C5

iTrader: (21)

I think that will work nicely as long as the nozzles are pointing towards Centerline.

I bench flowed those nozzles in a blackwing application heres a vid.
Beers Dry Bench Flow Vid


I think your pattern will collide right in front of the opening and every bit will get sucked in under WOT conditions.

Post a dyno with AFR if you can.

Beer

Robert56

iTrader: (2)

Well from my experiance, having the nozzles so far from the MAF and aimed at each other, you will likely at the minimum see a lean spike or condition for some time. Then progressively catch up. what happens in the open air box, you create a sort of null area where the streams meet, and this along with the fact that the air cleaner is pulling air from everywhere besides the bottom of the box, it takes some time for velocity to get high enough to really pull the mix up to the MAF wire for a good reading.
If you must use this location, it may be benifical to cut the deflectors off the nozzles and turn them into straight shooters. The MAF will see a much better and quicker cold stream, for a non lean spiking run, or to at least minimize spike.

I have nozzles similar, and a location (both like Beers) in the neck of the CAI. Why does this work better? It's at a point of air stream collection that will offer max velocity at all rpm ranges, and thus a much quicker/denser reading, and absolutely no lean spike. Plus they are more angled from the get go towards the MAf, (no 90* turning that needs to be done by air flow/vacuum).

Now with all that said, there is no absolutes, so you will just have to try things out and see. Keep us updated though.
Robert

SS6ixSpeed

Thanks for the information, guys. Excellent vid, Beer. That raises my confidence. It seems the streams will collide right where I need them to.

Rob, I understand what your're saying and can see why directing them at the MAF would be a better stream, I'm just concerned that too good of a stream will freeze the MAFS. That's why I spent the extra $$$ on these fan nozzles.
I have the window switch set to engage at 3100. At WOT and this RPM, shouldn't I have a pretty decent air velocity prior to nitrous engaging?

Robert56

iTrader: (2)

The freezing of the MAF is just an "Old wive's tale", totally bogus. Do you think the guys driving these type cars up in Alaska have any issues when it's sub 0* and traveling at 60mph which would make it well below zero, like minus 40*, nope they don't. The freezing of the MAF is a total Fallacy.

As for intitial velocity, I doubt it as an open filter pulls equally from every square inch, so the max velocity will be seen in the neck where all the air comes together. Actually it's like the "Venturi Effect", where the air in a carb gets chocked down in the venturi; this will speed it up and increase velocity. Air flow will take the path of least resistance to get into manifold ie: air path closet to MAF/throttle body.

Now with all said, you may be ok, but likely will see a lean spike at a minimum. As long as this doesn't last more than a second it will do no harm, as long as it's not to great and you don't mind. But if it's lasting to long or is very lean you may want to consider some of the options suggested.
Robert

Juicedz28

We put my single nozzle set-up in the neck and it froze my maf. i couldn't figure out what was up. Then i relocated it above the filter and it hit hard. Im not an expert but this was my experience.

Todd157k

iTrader: (5)

I have the FIPK. Mounted my dual nozzles on the outside element first however got a lean spike and was difficult to get it richer. I moved them inside, and after a few itterations, ended up about 4.5" away from the maf as shown below. You can see the f'd up mesh on the side from first install.

Robert56

iTrader: (2)

Can you elaborate on freezing the MAF, do you mean the screen, which should be pulled on all dry shots.
If not what were your syptoms of the freezing MAF?

By the way, there is a reason that we can freeze the screen on dry hits and sub artic like alaska cold will not freeze the screen, ie: humidity.
Robert

South

Right now I have the nozzle in the neck of the lid and it is angled down about 45*. When I sprayed straight in, the car would serge (shake back and forth). Is this what people call a MAF freeze issue?

Thanks,

Jason

mxmccarter2401

iTrader: (5)

i'm pretty sure you not supposed to use teflon tape on nitrous fittings (thats what it looks like anyway). it could come off and clog a noid. Use teflon paste instead.

Robert56

iTrader: (2)

What nozzle ie: 90*, 45*, straight, and how far from MAF. Sounds like air dynamics, in other words, your not getting a good reading. Is MAF screen out? it should be on all dry hits. If ya have a pic of your nozzle set-up that would be good. By the way, the MAF does not freeze, in any way shape or form, it's the screen that can get cold and then condensation collects and you get poor readings after that.
Robert

SS6ixSpeed

I used the tape a few threads above the ends. There's no way it could possibly get in there to clog the noid. I refuse to use the paste for two reasons... 1) it doesn't seal half as well; 2) I once had a few pieces break away inside of my purge leaving it stuck open. That stuff is a mess and impossible to clean out if you ever need to take something apart.