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Old Mar 19, 2007 | 03:16 PM
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Default Heater wiring ?'s

I know someone is going to tell me to search...Well I did and I have all types of wiring diagrams. Im just a moron when it comes to wiring, from lack of experience.

With that said. I have a dyno tune heater and the instructions are very straight forward. I just dont know anything about wiring. My first question is whats the best way to find a 12 volt source. It seems in all the diagrams in the wiring sticky they attach directly to the positive side of the battery. Is that correct? Is there a 12 volt source I can splice in to in the trunk area, or is the battery the best idea? With the ground can I just find myself something metal in the trunk and bolt it down to that?

Thanks for those who take the time to help. Im not completely lost on this, I just need some conformation so I can be sure of what I am doing. Im sure Ill have other questions along the way but I think I can get by if I can get this info. Thanks guys.
Jim
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Old Mar 19, 2007 | 03:31 PM
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12 volt constant will come from the battery.

Ground can be taken to the chassis in the heater location.
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Old Mar 19, 2007 | 03:35 PM
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Originally Posted by Ray@Nitrous Outlet
12 volt constant will come from the battery.

Ground can be taken to the chassis in the heater location.

So I should put the connector with the big loop on it, directly on the battery post on the pos side? Thanks for your quick response!
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Old Mar 19, 2007 | 03:52 PM
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On the drivers side in front of your fuse box there is a 12 volt power source.

Make sure that if you are grounding somewhere on the chassis, floorboard, or any painted surface that you scrape the paint off so that you get a good contact.
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Old Mar 19, 2007 | 05:15 PM
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Originally Posted by Stanknuglet
So I should put the connector with the big loop on it, directly on the battery post on the pos side? Thanks for your quick response!
No. you want a switch in between them.. or you'll have a dead battery in the morning.

[heater]--->[switch]--->[fuse]--->[battery]
|
|
[chassis gnd]
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Old Mar 19, 2007 | 05:18 PM
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If you have the power antenna, on the mast assembly in the inner fender, there are two threaded holes up near the top, one which already has a braided ground wire for the motor attached to it, and the other which is empty. I used the existing for the relay ground, and put a bolt in the unused side, and ran my heavy gauge ground from the heater element to it (Ohm'd them first to verify they were good grounds). Kept things from getting too messy, or forcing me to drill more holes in the chasis and scrape paint.
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Old Mar 19, 2007 | 05:19 PM
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Originally Posted by Todd157k
No. you want a switch in between them.. or you'll have a dead battery in the morning.

[heater]--->[switch]--->[fuse]--->[battery]
|
|
[chassis gnd]
I didn't even think about that, I assumed it had a relay with it.
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Old Mar 19, 2007 | 06:39 PM
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It does have a relay. I have the NX switch panel. I ran all the wires to the appropriate places. I couldnt find a way to get the 12 volt power wire through the firewall on the passenger side, but as I was cleaning up I saw a hole on the drivers side behind the pedals. I havent grounded anything either, I ran out of wire. Tomorrow I will finish it up. If anyone can think of anything that may help me out Im still open to suggestions. I want to do it right the fist time, even if it means going over what Ive already done today. Thanks for all your help guys.
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Old Mar 19, 2007 | 06:42 PM
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Also, can I ground the heater element and the pressure switch to the same spot?
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Old Mar 19, 2007 | 07:23 PM
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A couple of suggestions-

1.) Hopefully not too late, but I'd use heavy gauge wire for the power from the battery to the relay. I used 10ga only because they sold a spool of it, but I'd think you'd want at least 14 or 12. Its a long run, and the heater has alot of amperage pull. Likewise I'd use a similarly heavy gauge for the heater element ground.

2.) I'd throw a 30A fuse in there to be safe too, and put the fuse holder as close to the source (battery) as possible.

And yeah you can use the same spot for the ground for both the relay signal and the heater element.
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Old Mar 19, 2007 | 10:37 PM
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Originally Posted by Stanknuglet
Also, can I ground the heater element and the pressure switch to the same spot?

Yes, you can. Mine uses the same ground.
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Old Mar 20, 2007 | 12:24 PM
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Originally Posted by NHRATA01
A couple of suggestions-

1.) Hopefully not too late, but I'd use heavy gauge wire for the power from the battery to the relay. I used 10ga only because they sold a spool of it, but I'd think you'd want at least 14 or 12. Its a long run, and the heater has alot of amperage pull. Likewise I'd use a similarly heavy gauge for the heater element ground.

2.) I'd throw a 30A fuse in there to be safe too, and put the fuse holder as close to the source (battery) as possible.

And yeah you can use the same spot for the ground for both the relay signal and the heater element.

Not too late. Ive got all the wire ran but only have everything connected to the relay. The heater came with 12ga wire and 18ga wire. The 12 only has enough to reach the power source. So I wired everything else off of the relay with the 18ga. I could easily go get some thicker wire and redo it all. What do you think? I mean if it came with 18ga, I would think it would be ok. Its a little chilly out now so Im going to wait a couple hours. Hope to hear back from you guys by then. Thanks again!
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Old Mar 20, 2007 | 03:34 PM
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That sounds fine then, the other 2 connections on the relay besides the power and the line to the heater element (which are the 2 heavy gauge black and green wires if memory serves) are just the input from the 12v switched and the relay ground for the switched (white and red). Both of those are low amp loads so 18ga is fine. For the line from the relay to the heater element, did you connect them directly, or was the distance too long and did you have to use some wire? If so then I'd use heavy gauge from the relay output to the element. And then the only other thing is like I said, its probably a good idea to use a heavy gauge for the ground from the element, since thats a high current load.

Basically the relay has 2 12-14ga wires and 2 18s. Keep consistent and use heavy gauge on the heavier gauge relay wires since thats the high current load side for the heating element. The 18s are the low current load side just for the signal.

Sorry for the diahrrea of the mouth, I think I do a bad job explaining things in words sometime!
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Old Mar 20, 2007 | 04:26 PM
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I have the dynotune adjustable heater. It didn't come with near enough wire so I bought 2 spools of 10 ga. wire. I ran the hot wire for the switch to the fuse box for the solenoid and the heater. These don't have to be of heavy gauge.
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Old Mar 20, 2007 | 09:28 PM
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I just went out and got some 12ga wire. Im just going to make it easier on myself and replace the smaller wires with it. I rather redo it than try to track down a problem later on due to my lack of knowledge and experience.
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Old Mar 21, 2007 | 01:45 PM
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I'd like what size fuses for what sized wire on 12 volts?
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Old Mar 21, 2007 | 01:58 PM
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Originally Posted by Lythropus
I'd like what size fuses for what sized wire on 12 volts?
It's not "wire size" that determines it. It's current draw. Usually it's 1.4 times the normal current draw is sufficient and safe however in the case of a solenoid where it can spike at almost twice the normal draw, you'll want a higher value fuse.
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Old Mar 21, 2007 | 02:00 PM
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The dyno tune kit came with 12ga wire and the fuse was a 25. Hope that helps.
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Old Mar 27, 2007 | 10:04 PM
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wire size determines maximum amps which determines fuse size...
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