which dry kit is recommended from nitro daves, the bar or nozzle? i planned on getting a TPS, window switch, and a bottle heater. i would like to mount the bottle between the back seats so i dont need a remote opener. does anyone have the nitrous outet window switch that also works as a TPS? i am new to all the accessories and just want my system to be as safe as possible. has anyone had any problems not using the big companies like n.o.s., etc., equipment? i plan on running a 100 shot. thanks.

 

I personally prefer our Halo dry systems. The Halo systems also come with some accessories compared to our basic nozzle dry systems. Ofcourse our nozzle systems will work. But if it were my car and I was running a dry system it would be a Halo system.

Our window switches are very popular. Out of well over a few hundred window switches I can only remember one needing to be warrentied.
Dave

 

I run the switch and it works excellent and is easy to use/program. Personally I would look at Nitrodave's wet plate kit. I switched from the halo spray bar to the plate and couldn't be happier. Dry kits often will require some pcm monitoring and probably tuning via efilive/hptuners to work safely. The wet kits are more install and play, but a wideband guage or at least a dyno a/f check is recomended.

I have the 860 performance bottle bracket/heater that mounts between the rear seats and it works well and I get a lot of compliments on the appearance. Nitrodave's or Nitrous Outlet, etc. are better to deal with than the large comapnies and thier products are top notch. They also sell n.o.s., nx, etc. kits if that's what your comfortable with.

 

so even if i keep the shot to 100, you still recommend a tune? i wanted to wait to get a tune if possible until i got my cam and headers. what other accessories did you go with? (fuel pump, etc.?) thanks alot

 

Well you will at least want to check the a/f even with the wet it. I bought the dry kit and mistakenly thought it was just install and run as I have been running wet kits for years w/out any problems on multiple cars.

The maf sensor did not consistently "see" the nitrous and it went lean and I lost piston #7 and it destroyed my block as well. This was on a 100 shot. After replacing the shortblock we tried to tune the car w/ efilive and didn't like the maf consistency w/ the dry kit and I made the switch to the wet plate and have been all smiles ever since.

I run nitrous every week at the track so I have a bottle heater/bracket, a wideband O2, timing tuner, plate kit, tps/window switch, 255lph in/tank fuel pump. All these aren't necessary, but I feel comfortable with these accs. running the 150 shot safely.

You could run a 100 shot wet kit on stock timing w/ some NGK or Autolite 103 plugs and be fine. The stock fuel pump is iffy above 100 shot in my opinion. You should still check a/f via a guage or dyno once you install the kit though.

Lots of guys have great success with dry kits, but I prefer the wet kits. 10yrs. of wet kits and no hurt motors here.

 

im a little intimidated installing the wet kit-they both seem to have their ups and downs. what did the wideband air/fuel cost you? on nitrous outlet you have to call, which im sure you are aware of. also, how does a FPSS work? are the intalls of these two parts very complicated? whether i decide to go wet or dry,i am going to get the tps window switch, air/fuel gauge, heater/bracket, and was considering a timing ****.