Fjo Users In Here
Fjo Users In Here I was just wondering if I set up my FJO correctly. I know the TPS signal is fine, but the RPM's I'm not sure of. I'm running a single stage at the moment and the kit activates at 3000 rpms and stops at 6000 is what I downloaded to the controller. When checking for the yellow and red LEDS, they both come on at 3000 rpms. Is this correct? I was under the understanding that the yellow comes on at 3000 and then the red comes on at 6000. Any help would be great. Thanks
Originally Posted by red fury
both led's light up once the activation rpm has been reached.
So then its correct then? Like I said, I thought the yellow LED lights up AND then the red once the RPM cutoff has been reached....
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Originally Posted by LS1rulz
Don't progressive controllers wear your solenoids out FAST?
Wear is wear. Everything mechanical only has X amount of cycle life. There's no intelligent human being in the world who would argue that.
And progressive controllers fire the solenoids many times per second, don't they?
And progressive controllers fire the solenoids many times per second, don't they?
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Originally Posted by LS1rulz
Wear is wear. Everything mechanical only has X amount of cycle life. There's no intelligent human being in the world who would argue that.
And progressive controllers fire the solenoids many times per second, don't they?
And progressive controllers fire the solenoids many times per second, don't they?
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Verdad Gallardo No, I'm trying to hear an explanation that is stronger than my understanding. I would like to think that the progressive idea is a good one. I guess it is in a race-only car that will have parts replaced more often than a street car, right?
I am sorry I came off wrong. I want to understand, and honestly, I want to be convinced to use a progressive when I do my forged N2O rebuild.
I am sorry I came off wrong. I want to understand, and honestly, I want to be convinced to use a progressive when I do my forged N2O rebuild.
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Originally Posted by LS1rulz
Wear is wear. Everything mechanical only has X amount of cycle life. There's no intelligent human being in the world who would argue that.
And progressive controllers fire the solenoids many times per second, don't they?
And progressive controllers fire the solenoids many times per second, don't they?
A progressive will open and close the solenoids many time a second. The nitrous is under a huge amount of pressure or load. Ever time it closes it slams that piston into the seat or body of the solenoid. This slamming is where the problems can arise. The telfon being much harder material can take the punishment with out any ill effects to the material. The rubbery stuff will start to deform and then tear causing a leak or a clogged jet.
Fuel does not have this issue becuase of the lower pressures it is under.
SO the materials handle the progressive differently. Some noids are fine others will have troubles sooner then later.
Originally Posted by NXRICKY
Yellow and Red are stage one and stage two green is tps. Your second stage must also be setting at 3000.
Ok I'm a little confused here. Green LED is for the WOT only I thought. Yellow LED is when kit starts spraying and Red LED is when the kit stops spraying. I have input 2 ignored by and 2ng stage is disabled.
So your saying I have to set the second stage "on" "off" also....
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IF you check NOT present then red should not turn on. The LEDs are to show when something happens.
Green is tps
yellow first stage
red 2nd stage.
Input 2 is dealing with controlling the stage per another items action. Like a trans brake, you would want the stage to disable while the tbrake is on. Nice little wire, it can allow you to switch between a mild or agressive setting with just a flip of a toggle switch.
IF you are not connected to the 2nd stage wire do not worry about any programming for that stage. YOu do not have to program the 2nd stage.
Green is tps
yellow first stage
red 2nd stage.
Input 2 is dealing with controlling the stage per another items action. Like a trans brake, you would want the stage to disable while the tbrake is on. Nice little wire, it can allow you to switch between a mild or agressive setting with just a flip of a toggle switch.
IF you are not connected to the 2nd stage wire do not worry about any programming for that stage. YOu do not have to program the 2nd stage.
Originally Posted by NXRICKY
No wear is not wear. Some solenoids on the market use a teflon piston on the nitrous side. Some use a black rubbery looking stuff. it seals great but sucks for the long haul.
A progressive will open and close the solenoids many time a second. The nitrous is under a huge amount of pressure or load. Ever time it closes it slams that piston into the seat or body of the solenoid. This slamming is where the problems can arise. The telfon being much harder material can take the punishment with out any ill effects to the material. The rubbery stuff will start to deform and then tear causing a leak or a clogged jet.
Fuel does not have this issue becuase of the lower pressures it is under.
SO the materials handle the progressive differently. Some noids are fine others will have troubles sooner then later.
A progressive will open and close the solenoids many time a second. The nitrous is under a huge amount of pressure or load. Ever time it closes it slams that piston into the seat or body of the solenoid. This slamming is where the problems can arise. The telfon being much harder material can take the punishment with out any ill effects to the material. The rubbery stuff will start to deform and then tear causing a leak or a clogged jet.
Fuel does not have this issue becuase of the lower pressures it is under.
SO the materials handle the progressive differently. Some noids are fine others will have troubles sooner then later.
do all NX solenoids have this teflon you speak of? might be going progressive soon...
Originally Posted by NXRICKY
No wear is not wear. Some solenoids on the market use a teflon piston on the nitrous side. Some use a black rubbery looking stuff. it seals great but sucks for the long haul.
A progressive will open and close the solenoids many time a second. The nitrous is under a huge amount of pressure or load. Ever time it closes it slams that piston into the seat or body of the solenoid. This slamming is where the problems can arise. The telfon being much harder material can take the punishment with out any ill effects to the material. The rubbery stuff will start to deform and then tear causing a leak or a clogged jet.
Fuel does not have this issue becuase of the lower pressures it is under.
SO the materials handle the progressive differently. Some noids are fine others will have troubles sooner then later.
A progressive will open and close the solenoids many time a second. The nitrous is under a huge amount of pressure or load. Ever time it closes it slams that piston into the seat or body of the solenoid. This slamming is where the problems can arise. The telfon being much harder material can take the punishment with out any ill effects to the material. The rubbery stuff will start to deform and then tear causing a leak or a clogged jet.
Fuel does not have this issue becuase of the lower pressures it is under.
SO the materials handle the progressive differently. Some noids are fine others will have troubles sooner then later.
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Originally Posted by LS1rulz
Sweet. Good info. Now what about the electronics? They have to have a life as well, and it has to be shortened. X number of cycles, right?
Originally Posted by LS1rulz
No, I'm trying to hear an explanation that is stronger than my understanding. I would like to think that the progressive idea is a good one. I guess it is in a race-only car that will have parts replaced more often than a street car, right?
I am sorry I came off wrong. I want to understand, and honestly, I want to be convinced to use a progressive when I do my forged N2O rebuild.
I am sorry I came off wrong. I want to understand, and honestly, I want to be convinced to use a progressive when I do my forged N2O rebuild.
If I ever wear out a solenoid it's a simple and inexpensive rebuild. I don't worry about it at all.
I can appreciate anyone wanting to understand how something works I recommend being open minded. Don't go with your assumptions until you study a system thoroughly. Also, it's hard sometimes but leave the rhetorical crap out of your posts - it's unnecessary.
Originally Posted by LS1rulz
Not sure what part you're assuming to be rhetoric, but I've found this thread to turn my opinion of progressive controllers in a 180* turn. Thanks to those who helped.