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Old Apr 21, 2007 | 02:49 PM
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Default install electrical problems =(

I have a dyno tune wet kit for my LT1 and im wiring it right now...when i use the relay and try to get both solenoids to click nothing happens, when i bypass the relay and just give power to the noids they click and are working....and i use the same ground when trying both...i even bought a new relay thinknig it was blown....can someone please help me...im lost
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Old Apr 21, 2007 | 03:00 PM
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Double check the wiring to the relay and make sure it has a good ground...U dont have a window switch on the car do you? If so u have to bypass that and FPSS (if u have one)to check the system when under the activation rpm range with the car off.
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Old Apr 21, 2007 | 03:41 PM
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nope, dont have wndow swith, but i do have the FPSS....and it has power and a ground...i just dont get it!!!!!!!!!!
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Old Apr 21, 2007 | 04:51 PM
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Your FPSS should have a double ground and the system has to have fuel pressure before the solenoids will open.
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Old Apr 21, 2007 | 07:12 PM
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thanks...yep that was it, the FPSS was jsut doing its job and not letting the noids work with no pressure when i tried to test it....so i bypassed the FPSS and they worked fine....but now i accidentally drilled the hole too high on my intake elbow and my nozzle wont clear my hood.... ...how do i plug the hole?
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Old Apr 21, 2007 | 07:38 PM
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=( anyone????
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Old Apr 21, 2007 | 08:11 PM
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mount the nozzle in a different psot and get some jb weld or other hardening putty substance and cover the hole, make it look nice tho.


or just screw a screw into the hole. it wont look as good as the jb weld tho.
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Old Apr 21, 2007 | 09:56 PM
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damn that cool you got yours working, Im having a similar problem but only my fuel noid will work and not my n20 noid but if I bypass them like you said they both work. Im using a tps/wot all in one box.
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Old Apr 21, 2007 | 10:56 PM
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Originally Posted by 99WS7
damn that cool you got yours working, Im having a similar problem but only my fuel noid will work and not my n20 noid but if I bypass them like you said they both work. Im using a tps/wot all in one box.
What box are you using? Is it a progressive controller as well?
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Old Apr 22, 2007 | 01:49 AM
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wow...JB weld sounds like a genius idea....lol almost too good to be true.....im gonna pick some up tomorrow
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Old Apr 22, 2007 | 06:05 AM
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camaro94ss - sorry to hijack your thread bro...Im just trying to get my spray to work.

01ws6, its this one http://www.nitrousoutlet.com/catalog...product_id=964
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Old Apr 22, 2007 | 09:12 AM
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Originally Posted by 99WS7
camaro94ss - sorry to hijack your thread bro...Im just trying to get my spray to work.

01ws6, its this one http://www.nitrousoutlet.com/catalog...product_id=964
Ur getting an rpm reading on the box right? Both power wires for the fuel and nitrous solenoids are spliced together and running to the same wire right? Im not real familiar with that box but im about to be when i purchase one here pretty soon because my msd pilled box took a nose dive on me apparently. Its a setting or wiring problem somewhere but i couldnt really tell you. Maybe somebody running this box will chime in. PM Beer95C5 i know he is running that box.
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Old Apr 22, 2007 | 09:57 AM
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Well from what I can tell yes the box is working as its suspose to, thats why Im so damn confused. Yes I am getting an rpm signal and yes both + wires are spliced into one wire going to the relay. I like the box because its a all in one type deal that is very easy to use. Everthing works becasue I have it set at 3k and WOT to spray. At 3k I go PIG rich. I have a dynojet wideband and its pretty damn accurate. I will PM him, maybe he can help me out some. Sucks when something so simple becomes so confusing.
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Old Apr 22, 2007 | 10:29 AM
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Originally Posted by 99WS7
Well from what I can tell yes the box is working as its suspose to, thats why Im so damn confused. Yes I am getting an rpm signal and yes both + wires are spliced into one wire going to the relay. I like the box because its a all in one type deal that is very easy to use. Everthing works becasue I have it set at 3k and WOT to spray. At 3k I go PIG rich. I have a dynojet wideband and its pretty damn accurate. I will PM him, maybe he can help me out some. Sucks when something so simple becomes so confusing.
Not trying to be a jackass but u didnt accidently swap the fuel and nitrous pills at the nozzle did you? The bigger pill in the fuel and the smaller in the nitrous maybe? And does your purge actually purge nitrous out instead of air? Ive had a few cases when i got a bottle filled and it was full of air and just a little nitrous.
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Old Apr 22, 2007 | 11:13 AM
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no prob man...but yes I have checked that aswell. Yes it does purge out nitrous as I have checked wit a fresh bottle and I am getting pure spray. I have a clear lid aswell and when I have bypassed my box making them both hit, I can see the spray in my lid. One more thing I have done is taken the fuel noid out of the equation by removing + wire only leaving the + wire for the n20 and bam it sprayed...I went super lean like 14.5, not cool but it did spray. See thats what I dont get, why it will work with one or the other but not both. Can it be the box not grounding properely cause it seems that everything works except when the tps/wot box in in the equation. I just dont understand why when something is grounded it can not be all the way grounded all the way. I have plenty of power going to the relay...big wire right off the batt. The box sends a ground signal to the realy thus activating it...can it maybe just not being a good enough ground???
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Old Apr 22, 2007 | 11:25 AM
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no problem about the thread man, i think its better to share threads about almost the same problem, you learn more...i hope you get your **** working many, i gotta finish the electrical on the interior and im done
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Old Apr 22, 2007 | 11:27 AM
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Ur sparying AFTER the mass air flow sensor right? I dont see how you can see it spraying through the lid if the nozzle is after the maf. And if ur spraying before the maf then its going to go super rich because its dumping more fuel in as nitrous flows across the maf. Dry kits are supposed to be before the maf.
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Old Apr 22, 2007 | 11:34 AM
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yes its after the mass, the reason I can see it is I just tap the + wires to the batt to make the noids fire and my throttle blad is closed to obvisoulsly its just gonna bounce off the blade and come back to the lid where I can see. I also know FOR SURE that is not hitting because I have nitrous press gauge and one way I used to make sure I was NOT spraying was to open my bottle then close it that way the only nitrous is in the line I can watch the gauge to see if it is beeing used, I also would purge it a little to verify the gauge is working and seeing the press go down.
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Old Apr 22, 2007 | 11:41 AM
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U have to have the strangest problem i have ever came across in my whole life! Where in texas do you live?
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Old Apr 22, 2007 | 02:39 PM
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lol, yes I know. What doesnt make sense is...is it does not make sense right?? Trust me, me or none of my friends have not been able to figure it out. Im about to just swap the box out and try running a microswitch with a window switch but I really just want to have what I have no working!!

I'm in Abilene
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