my trap na is about 102-106mph. 102 was a 13.440 with a 2.0xx 60.

i just changed my nozzle location to where it looks to be working better on spray than before according to my scan because now i'm hitting 10,000 hz as opposed to before where it would top out at 9800 hz on spray. my DC is also up to 60% now compared to when with the old nozzle location it would only go to 9800 hz and a DC of 55% on spray. afr looks good 11.9-12.8( i think some spots of the maf need tuning because the afr goes up and down smoothly but not too lean). there is very little kr up to .5* in the 4200-4500 rpm range....but i don't want to pull timing.
i'm running a dry 85 at the wheels. i haven't gotten a clean 1/4 run on the streets so i've been doing it on a roll. from 48 to 98mph took me about 6.6 seconds which equals 1.32 seconds per 10 mph. doing some math, i think i should be in the 12.4-12.7 range. last time i went to the track, i got a 13.223 on the spary at 60 mph. car is stock, decreened, and 37lb injectors.

my question is does this sound about right for an 85 shot with 37lb injectors or should i be seeing even more DC, faster 10mph, and/or a lower afr.

 

why did you let off in the 1/4 to run 60 mph? everyone's car is going to run different b/c of setups but i wouldnt go by your little calculation of 1.32 seconds per 10 mph to be honest. Put some tires on the thing and take it to a 1/4. If you have 37# injectors then up the shot, at least spray a 100rwshot

 

i didn't let off. i meant that i didn't start spraying until i got up to 60mph on the 1/4 run because i wasn't getting good traction. i've since then changed my tires and got much better traction to clock the 13.440 NA.

i intend on upping the shot size and probably split them for a 40 shot for the 1st third of the track then the 85 shot on the second stage once i get going.
i'm trying to get the car to work like it would on the streets but using the 1/4 track for a reference. i don't do burn outs and always have full weight including excess weight in the car. i go to the track on street tires.


my log was actually 6.6 seconds from 48mph to 98mph which is 1.32 seconds per 10mph. i just did an na log and was was going 1.6xx seconds per 10mph going 55-90. does this sound about right for na?

i'm going to the track later today.

 

Who the f*ck measures their time per 10mph going XXspeed lol. Go to the track, do a couple runs on motor to see where you're at for that day, then spray....THEN compare

 

I think you're looking for an answer to an equation that's simply not reliable. You are looking far too deep into this. Take that thing to the track, up the shot to a 100 shot for the whole run, and let her rip.

 

no **** dude, i'm trying to figure if this is working right for the street but i'm using the track as a measuring stick. normally i'm on the freeway going 60 and then going wot that's why i'm asking if my speed is climbing like it should be on an 85 shot. it's very unlikely for me to find someone on the streets out here with a safe wide open 1/2 mile street where i can do a burnout and then run em from a stop. i don't care much for 1/4 times, i want to get some street kills and am asking if everything seems like its in line.

 

so i clocked 2 12.7xx and 3 13.0xx times. my 60 foot was off by 1 tenth of my best NA. injector DC didn't go past 58% on the 12.7xx runs and didn't make it past 56% on the 13.0xx runs. maybe the nozzles moved and didn't hit the maf because even in the 12.7xx runs, the hz never went past 9800. does this sound right? i did up my psi to 1150 insted of the 1050 when DC reached 60%

 

what were your trap times NA vs N20...

 

With the same 60', I went from 13.5 at 103 to 12.7 at 117 with a 100 wet shot. I spun in 1st once the nitrous kicked in though at 3200rpm. I have to get a roll bar before I get back because I'm a vert. That's on a bolt on LT1.
Your trap speed will determine how much you kick *** from highway racing if that's what you're interested in. What tires are you racing on?

 

NA trap was 102 mph on my 13.440 run. i've trapped 105 on 13.6xx runs. maybe trans isn't shifting hard or the wind that day? i have a 3.23 rear.
85 dry shot trap was 110 on the 12.713 run(2.148=60) and 109 on my 12.753 run(2.193=60). the rpms climb much softer after the second shift(so i should be going into 3rd???). maybe my tune is the problem? can anyone help? would taking out spark be good to ramp up rpms and also get rid of some kr at the same time? kr is no higher than 1.1* but i'm not really worried about it because it doesn't happen as high or in the same areas when i compare my two 12.7xx runs to each other.

i don't know why, but on my NA 13.440 run, my 60 was 2.0xx. i didn't spray until past the 60 foot on the nitrous runs so the nitrous shouldn't have any effect on the 60. maybe because on the na run, i didn't have my bottle in the car?weight?

having done a calculation, it looks like it's working out because the track run from 51-101mph took 6.531 seconds divided by 5=1.3062 seconds per 10 mph. only off by .0126 per 10mph from the freeway run of 1.3188 going from 48-98 mph.

 

Are you around the Sac area?

 

Have you tried running a SD tune only? It really sounds to me like something is off in the tune! My car with a air lid and a 125 shot went 7.89 at 92 in the 1/8th. When I took it to the dyno it was only a 60 rwhp shot (old NOS system). How confident are you about your 85rwhp shot? NA mine ran a 8.56 at 8x something I don't have the slip in front of me. Try running the car NA and play with the SD tune until you get pretty confident it is right. Then try tuning the MAF and then spray. With my car it is a WHOLE lot easier tuning SD. I don't think dividing the total speed with the total time you are getting an accurate number of measure for anything, I don't know why you are doing that? It really sounds like you need to spend some time on a dyno. Go rent one for an hour or so and figure out what the car likes!

 

i'm in Sac.

i have the nos dual nozzle 5177 dry kit with the 32 jets which is supposed to be 100bhp and about 85 at the rear.
i'm thinking that my 13.440 NA run is correct because the car is all stock, with heavier than stock wheels, street tires(255/40/18's in the back), and my trans wasn't feeling like how it shifts when it runs good(maybe i've been beating it too much). weight is about 3700lbs including mysef, i have about a 3" front drop and a 4" rear drop with the stock springs cut. LCA mounts are stock. car is 82k miles. i could use a new air filter. i really believe that if i did things to offset these hinderances i could see a 13.2 stock NA with a lid. but since the car is a DD, i take the car to the track as if i were on the street(minus opening the hood).

I'm pretty sure something is off in my tune...just don't know where the problem is.
1. the pcm is always using the low octane table. so i made both my high and low tables the same.
2. i'm always in closed loop at all speeds(except startup).
3. my maf hz fluctuate up and down and isn't a linear incline on rpm and speed inclines. maybe this is normal? the g/sec is jagged.
4. i've just relocated my nozzles which works better than before but probably is still not the most perfect location since injector DC and cylinder airmass didn't go up much than NA.

i've cut .727 of the 1/4 which seems about right since my 60 foot was about .1 more which should mean that with the 85 shot i should have cut about .8 or so off if i take the 60 foot into account. i also spray with a button when i feel that i have traction which is past the 3k pill i have.

i was trying to compare the speed times to see if the car is working correctly from a roll. i'll be dual staging it in the next couple of weeks

 

what order did you do your stall and spray? the same time? i haven't gotten into any SD reading yet.

 

get on sacfbodyz.com

we're having a gtg this weekend

 

I went from completely stock, bought an air lid, this is where I ran the 8.56. I then pulled the old dry kit from my mustag and stuck it on there with the 42# injectors. That is when I ran the 7.89 with a 125 shot. I just finished the stall, headers, and MS4 yesterday so I haven't tuned it for that yet and no times yet.
I have the same thing with the high and low octane tables
To get in SD mode is real easy just set MAF freq to 0, unplug your
MAF and tune your VE table. Have you done that yet?? Don't spray with no MAF!!
I think the prob may lie in the MAF, I am no expert but I know my injector duty cycle increases almost immediately when I start spraying, higher than NA anyways. What tables are you changing for fuel when you are in PE mode?? How do you keep your AFR right? Did you set up a histogram stft vs. MAF hz to tune your MAF, after you tuned VE?

 

10 hp = take off .1 off the 1/4 et and add 1 mph

 

i'm far from understanding how to tune. i have HPT and a WB.
PE is set to 12.5 but i can go anywhere from 11.8-12.8. i live with it because the 12.8 isn't too lean for me.
i think the problem is in my maf. even in NA, the same tune will have a different AFR pattern on different logs even when iat, ect, how long the car has been running for, and outside temp are similar to each other. i hope that i have a finicky maf. i've cleaned it and descreened also.

for VE, my ltft are always negative. bank1 is always asking for about 3% more fuel than bank2. i don't let bank one come close to 0 most of the time. instead i have it at about -3 and then bank2 is about -6. most of the time the ltft are -6 for b1 and -9 for b2. on decel, b1 is closer to -13 and b2 is around -15. i'd rather have the pcm take fuel than add any. ltft always zeros out when going WOT.

the nitrous runs i did yesterday were with a crude and hastily made nozzle mount and may have moved on my nitrous runs thus not hitting the maf correctly. so i'm pretty sure i can get the nozzle location to hit the maf better. another thing is that on my 1st and 3rd runs which were the 12.7's, i didn't purge and the bottle was at 1050psi. on the 2 13.0 and 12.9 run's, i had my bottle at 1150 psi and purged on one of them.

i don't know how to set up a histogram stft vs. MAF hz to tune the MAF. and i've never used the stft for tuning.

 

I'll bet the MAF isn't right. Setting up the histogram is kind of tricky. Sounds like the LTFT are right which is good. When you unplug your maf and turn the freq to 0 how does it run NA? Mine always runs really strong. There is a ton of info on the HPT web site forum on how to tune MAF. Basically you have to scan with it logging MAF in HZ. Then you can create a histogram with MAF hz on one axis and STFT on the other. You can do it with LTFT but most people seem to do it with just STFT to save fuel and works just as well. Then you take the results of that histogram and multiply special by%. That is the general jist do a search on HPT forum for MAF tuning, if you cant figure it out I will try and help. Just make sure your VE is right before you go to MAF!! Below is a great doc I used to get me in the ball park, I had to delete ALOT of info just to post it and I cant remember who made it to give them credit but it has a wealth of info. Hope this helps!