








To run a progressive controller or not.
I love the fjo software for controlling the unit, great flexibility
BadAssFast, I finally got COS 5 to work to pull timing...ran into fuel pump issues though, my new racetronics pump and hotwire kit does not like 100% TP as it drops to 35 PSI
...I am hoping its something easy like a fuel filter.
.) I know what to expect at the Dyno and the track...funny how they are so different!!
As far as any vender looking at dollar value as a reason for preference. Thast just stupid... If that was the case trust me they would never sell a FJO progressive controller and would push as many stages as possible towards the customer. We sell a average of 30 to 50 FJO minis a month year round. Sometimes more. I can tell you that there is absulutly no profit margin at all in stocking the FJO product line. As a matter of fact our dealers get nothing off FJO progressive controllers. If I could find a better product I would drop the FJO product in a heart beat just for the fact that I keep so much money tied up in there invatory and the store does not make jack off of it. We simply stock and sell the FJO progressives because the best product on the market..
I truly wish I had the time like you do sometimes, to really detail out my views/thoughts/insights. You do/can spell out things when you want to, and it's a benifit to all I suppose. I don't even have the time to read your long post above, right now, but am sure it's loaded with good stuff that the end user can consume. Carry on.
Edit: Oh yea, my 408 came today, yippie.
Robert
.) I know what to expect at the Dyno and the track...funny how they are so different!!
Robert
myfast70 thanks for the questions.
ok on your first one
Progressive controllers have come a long way from the begining. The microprocessor used in todays are most top notch. Sure there is some questionable parts still floating around, that people sell, and I guess there always will be.
I use to say a progressive was only needed if you had traction issues. That statement is a little off for what I know now. Progressive controllers not only help traction they can help torque load on the engine.
Most damage to any nitrous engine is where you have loaded too much nitrous into the engine at the wrong RPM. The cylinder pressure go throu the roof, and can lead to detentation, or slow the exceleration of the engine for a moment. So a progressive controller has some benifits.
1) tractions aid
2) control cylinder pressure
3) can stop backfires(if cuased by intake saturation)
You could dial in a car to run as fast with a progressive control as without. Even if the car had perfect traction. Why becuase alot of torque in the launch on cars is not even used, it gets wasted because the car just can not handle it, or use it properly. Torque convertor slip, engine not allow to rev CLEANLY, etc.
Now will a progressive box beat up your solenoids. YES and NO. The progressive box by its nature will do shorten a solenids life.
How much? depends on usage and whos solenoids. So thats bad right, not really. With the new compensating piston and teflon pistons out there the shorten life is far out of most peoples range you will sell the nitrous system, or just buy new solenoids before the others are used up. thats the NO. ( most poeple buy new noids even thou the others are fine, its a new thing.
)No issues with lightning soleniods on progressive conrollers none at all.
You will need to match your progressive controller with the solenoids you are using. Many controllers on the market, and most are built to work within 1 companies product line.
EXP. NX solenoids and old NOS progressives run into troubles, the old units lets say anything from about a year ago to older, would have huge troubles with NX solenoids amp draws.
There is alot of magic that goes into a good progressive controller, not all solenoids use the same coils so the solenoids will react differently to the controlls.
In closing I like the FJO KWS0022. Not becuase I sell it, look at the lay out, its functions, its abilities and the big picture. There is another one I like just can not give it any props.
FJO unit offer good controls, tps and window switches controlls. So you are really not buying a progressive your buying 2
progressive's
tps
window switch's
something you install anywhere in the car.
progressive controllers at this time does not effect the warranty as it stands. If your solenoid is damaged due with one of our controllers you are covered. Warranty does not, never has, coverd the coils. IF it burns out from being ran to long, that part you will have to buy.
Hope this helps hit me up if you have any other questions.
Ricky
Last edited by NXRICKY; May 23, 2007 at 06:53 AM.
Robert

Hey did any of you guys see my dyno sheet/run that I had a dry hit set-up to be very much a progressive hit, a progresser, without a progressive controller, true story. It also mimicks the the curves of a turbo.
Robert
Last edited by Robert56; May 23, 2007 at 10:31 PM.
The Best V8 Stories One Small Block at Time
Robert
There is more to tuning a N20 car then a wideband on a dynojet
Maybe if you had a WB in every hole you would see the "dreaded lean spikes" but since you have 1 for all 8 and it averages them out you MAY not see it.
Just something to think about, good luck with that 10 second monster
Robert
I love the old FJO 2 stage crontroller. decide before the run what it can take turn both switches on and let her eat. some times ill set both stages up leave the 2nd one of on a arm switch then shift 2nd tap the 2nd switch on. it works well for traction limited surfaces. if its hooked up sooner hit it sooner. but i got a glide so im shifting just before the 1/8 with my th400 i had to wait for the shift around the 60' mark.
The new one is ok but i have seen it reset and loose the settings. i have never had an issue with the old one where you usb it to the laptop. we have them on 4 cars and never an issue.
See ATV's ;post i couldn't have said it better.
also think about sample rate. if a dyno jet pull takes ~2 seconds. than how much data can it collect? now on a mustang dyno the top gear pull take ~5 seconds or more it has way more data for the same rpm range. so you spend more time at each rpm and can tune for a presise moment more than an avg of a rpm window. like i said they can work well but depending on distance from noids to valves it can be a varied lean spike.
I draw with 1 pump from 1 tank.
Maybe if you had a WB in every hole you would see the "dreaded lean spikes" but since you have 1 for all 8 and it averages them out you MAY not see it.
Just something to think about, good luck with that 10 second monster

also think about sample rate. if a dyno jet pull takes ~2 seconds. than how much data can it collect? now on a mustang dyno the top gear pull take ~5 seconds or more it has way more data for the same rpm range. so you spend more time at each rpm and can tune for a presise moment more than an avg of a rpm window. like i said they can work well but depending on distance from noids to valves it can be a varied lean spike.
. They exist - lots of things exist - but I have to work with what I have to work with. I can't and won't get all worked up about minor or sometimes an occasional lean spike. I have bigger fish to fry in my 10 sec monster
.

is over for me. 


