I looked through the nitrous wiring sticky, but the diagrams I need aren't showing up.

I can get my system to work fine with the car off (and the system armed) if I bypass the harlan window switch and the FPSS. When I remove the bypasses and try an actual run with a 50 shot, it seems to work sporadically and when it does actually hit, it hits briefly and blows the 30 amp fuse I have coming right off the battery feed. I thought that indicates a bad ground, but I use the same grounds when I bypass the WS and FPSS. It works fine when I do this.

Here is what my wiring looks like. I took a diagram created by NXRICKY and added the harlan window switch as I wired it. Is there anything wrong with my wiring?

 

Anybody?

 

1. I don't see a fuse anywhere.
2. What gage wire are you using for the noids? when you join them together (per the schematic) you'd should have 10-12 ga wire (green in schem).
3. Make real sure you have a good ground for the noids.
4. The original schematic, FPSS goes to ground which means the PINK/TAN wire from the NX is 12v when triggered. Make sure the "white" wire of the Harlan ws goes "ground" when triggered. I couldn't find anything on the Harlan ws wiring that claims a white wire... only a black wire that is trigger ground.


Red Wire – Connect this wire to a +12V source. The fuse block is a good choice for this connection, a
switch accessory fuse is a prime choice. The will turn the module off when the key is off. But, any
switched +12V source is ok.
Black Wire – This is the ground connection for the module. Chose a convenient ground location. A
mounting screw or any other metal piece that makes a direct connection to the body will do. The radio
ground is also a possibility.
Green Wire – This is the Tach input to the module. This can be either from the Tach line of the engine
computer or from the switched side of an ignition coil.
Another Black wire exits the module. It provide the connections for driving an external device from the
window switch.
Black Wire – This wire is the switched ground from the module. A connection to ground is made through
this wire whenever the output of the module is “On”.
When driving external devices, there is a maximum current that the module can handle. It is small. To
ensure proper operation and to avoid damage, use the black wire to control an external relay.
DO NOT try and directly ground external lights or solenoids with the module, you will fry it!

 

1) The fuse is not on the schematic, but I assure you it is on the car directly after the battery connection
2) 12 ga
3) I have a good ground for the noids.

I assume that the wire gauge and noid grounds are fine since the system operates fine with the FPSS and WS bypassed. As soon as the throttle triggers the TPS WOT switch, both noids click.

4) The last black wire that is listed in the instructions is actually a white wire on mine (switched ground). By some of the searches I have done, it seems that some are white, and some are black. Might depend on when it was purchased.

 

If the fuse is on #30 line going to the battery, there's just something up with the noids. Everything on the 85/86 side of the relay is isolated.
Why it works when not underway... dunno. Pressure? Maybe shoot the question to one of the vendors on here that supplies that brand of noid.

 

Yes, the fuse is on the #30 line ...that makes it a little easier to isolate the problem. I will try to run a jumper wire from the negative battery terminal to the noid ground. I'm pretty sure I have them grounded well, but that should be the sure test.