500 shot
05-24-2007, 10:56 AM
#21
Originally Posted by barkingspud
Why is it when someone wants to build a monster nitrous motor, folks always chime in and say a turbo is the only way to go? I don't understand that. A naturally aspirated motor is MUCH easier to tune and adding Nitrous is pretty simple when you do it right. Dedicated fuel system and proper tuning a Nitrous motor will last a good long time and perform like a raped ape at the track. I'm not flaming the FI guys, just making an observation.
Neither setup will be cheap, while the turbo cost more initially you don't have the ridiculous cost of running 5-6lbs of nitrous per run or the 10 bottles you'll have to have with you for the weekend of hell maybe even the day.
To each his own....
05-24-2007, 01:32 PM
#22
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Originally Posted by Alex @ CMS
Thats because Big Shot nitrous motors tend to Melt more pistons than an equally Powerfull FI motor. Turbo's and Superchargers are more progressive where as nitrous shocks the motor with incredible force then tapers off.
Neither setup will be cheap, while the turbo cost more initially you don't have the ridiculous cost of running 5-6lbs of nitrous per run or the 10 bottles you'll have to have with you for the weekend of hell maybe even the day.
To each his own....
Neither setup will be cheap, while the turbo cost more initially you don't have the ridiculous cost of running 5-6lbs of nitrous per run or the 10 bottles you'll have to have with you for the weekend of hell maybe even the day.
To each his own....
True. It's all about the application and needs....
05-24-2007, 06:40 PM
#25
Originally Posted by Alex @ CMS
NO
You are going to need Major Block Work to Hold 500hp worth of nitrous.... Thats Dedicated Nitrous motor....
Coated & gas ported pistons, Hellfire rings, HUGE head Studs, 0-ringed block, Copper gaskets , Possibly Billet mains if using aluminum block, a Custom Ground Nitrous Cam, ETC, ETC, ETC....
Take a look at the TOP Nitrous LSX ET's Max is a 350Shot From Shiz, most will do 200-300 max since the motor is increadibly prone to lifting the heads
You are going to need Major Block Work to Hold 500hp worth of nitrous.... Thats Dedicated Nitrous motor....
Coated & gas ported pistons, Hellfire rings, HUGE head Studs, 0-ringed block, Copper gaskets , Possibly Billet mains if using aluminum block, a Custom Ground Nitrous Cam, ETC, ETC, ETC....
Take a look at the TOP Nitrous LSX ET's Max is a 350Shot From Shiz, most will do 200-300 max since the motor is increadibly prone to lifting the heads
Were gona hit it with the 450 real soon i would agree for the most part except o-ringed block.
05-25-2007, 04:18 AM
#26
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There is one nice thing about N20. If you race it for money nobody knows what the car is jetted so. People see a big turbo and know more then likley its fast.
My 83 is a two stage BBC car. Its seen plenty of 3XX runs SAFE on both stages. Would never know that looking at it.
Run a few all motor runs, someone calls you out thinking you only have a 10 sec car... then hit the gas and scream... but with turbos you can also turn the boost down.
Turbos are nice, remeber though that you don't throw a lot of bottle at an engine to make power. Yout build an engin to make A LOT of power and to take a beating. YOu then spray it to whatever it will handle.
You build it to make a mot of power on the motor so it takes less bottle to get it to your goal.
If you know what you are doing you can make a safe reliable N20 engine race it on the motor and on the bottle when you need it. Remember that the larger the shot the more bottles you need to take to the track. There are guys that take A LOT of full bottles to the track.
Something also cool about having two bottls mounted in a billet holder just behined the rear seats
If N20 i what you want then go for it, it takes a lot of money but so do big turbo cars.
Run what you brung and have fun
My 83 is a two stage BBC car. Its seen plenty of 3XX runs SAFE on both stages. Would never know that looking at it.
Run a few all motor runs, someone calls you out thinking you only have a 10 sec car... then hit the gas and scream... but with turbos you can also turn the boost down.
Turbos are nice, remeber though that you don't throw a lot of bottle at an engine to make power. Yout build an engin to make A LOT of power and to take a beating. YOu then spray it to whatever it will handle.
You build it to make a mot of power on the motor so it takes less bottle to get it to your goal.
If you know what you are doing you can make a safe reliable N20 engine race it on the motor and on the bottle when you need it. Remember that the larger the shot the more bottles you need to take to the track. There are guys that take A LOT of full bottles to the track.
Something also cool about having two bottls mounted in a billet holder just behined the rear seats
If N20 i what you want then go for it, it takes a lot of money but so do big turbo cars.
Run what you brung and have fun
05-25-2007, 08:24 AM
#27
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^^^^ Agreed!! I like the fact that with my Mitrous car, I can run on motor all day and hit the gas when it really counts. Either way, it's all fun!!
<------ Your piston 
05-25-2007, 11:25 AM
#29
Originally Posted by ShiznityZ28
Were gona hit it with the 450 real soon i would agree for the most part except o-ringed block.
05-25-2007, 01:52 PM
#30
Originally Posted by Alex @ CMS
It's the best way to keep from blowing head gaskets/lifting heads/pressurizing the coolant system we have so far. For a anything more than a 250 shot it's more insurance.
I still think with the right head studs and right gaskets and right tune and an aftermarket head with some deck on it 450-500 is do-able. i have hit mine with more than a 350 thats just all it has seen this year @ the track. we have dynoed it with more with rac e gas on a mustang loaded dyno. I have seen more guys have trouble with an oring block than its worth. Also using RPM to keep cyl pressure down along with a good tune helps keep the heads on.
05-26-2007, 11:09 AM
#33
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Quick ??, I've been around a long time, what problem is everyone having all of a sudden with O-ring blocks. I stand by O-rings & receiver grooves for anything taking a big hit.
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Quick ??, I've been around a long time, what problem is everyone having all of a sudden with O-ring blocks. I stand by O-rings & receiver grooves for anything taking a big hit.
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