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Old 05-25-2007 | 08:43 PM
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The motor was built to handle 1000hp, that's the gurantee, however, to start, I'll be staying around 700rwhp, we hope. The reason is time and $$ for tranny and rearend.
Anyway, the L19 studs from ARP are a high tensile strength and can torqued higher than stock ARP studs, 90 lbs ft. This equates to 40% more clamping force over stock torque. No real need to go to the expense of 1/2 studs and subseqent machining, however, the L19's aren't exactly cheap. Motor was built to my specs and with a starting 300 multi stage shot in mind (dry of course ).

The nuts and bolts of the short block:
Iron 6.0L Block-new
Callies CompStar Crank-4340 4" stroke
Wiseco Forged Nitrous Pistons-8cc reversed Dome 4.030 bore
Childs & Alberts Moly Rings-1/16, 1/16, 3/16
Callies H-Beam Rods-ARP 2000 7/16 bolts, 6.125
Melling B/B Oil Pump-ported/shimmed
ARP L19 Head studs
ARP Main Studs
GM 6.0 MLS Head Gasket
Clevite 2199H Main bearing
Clevite 663H Cam bearing
Keyed Balancer

Clearances:
Piston to bore-.005
Main brg-.0025
Rod brg-.0022
Ring end gap-.028 top, .021 second
Rod side clear-.022
Deck Height-9.230
Quench-.040 w/.045 gasket
Bob weight-1778 gm





Robert

Last edited by Robert56; 05-25-2007 at 08:59 PM.
Old 05-25-2007 | 09:04 PM
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ok, where did you get these studs, and i still need to know if you have to swap over to evans coolant because i am very interested in these. nice motor, i know somebody with almost the exact same setup, and i mean almost exact
Old 05-25-2007 | 09:05 PM
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Originally Posted by Robert56
The motor was built to handle 1000hp, that's the gurantee, however, to start, I'll be staying around 700rwhp, we hope. The reason is time and $$ for tranny and rearend.
Anyway, the L19 studs from ARP are a high tensile strength and can torqued higher than stock ARP studs, 90 lbs ft. This equates to 40% more clamping force over stock torque. No real need to go to the expense of 1/2 studs and subseqent machining, however, the L19's aren't exactly cheap. Motor was built to my specs and with a starting 300 multi stage shot in mind (dry of course ).

The nuts and bolts of the short block:
Iron 6.0L Block-new
Callies CompStar Crank-4340 4" stroke
Wiseco Forged Nitrous Pistons-8cc reversed Dome 4.030 bore
Childs & Alberts Moly Rings-1/16, 1/16, 3/16
Callies H-Beam Rods-ARP 2000 7/16 bolts, 6.125
Melling B/B Oil Pump-ported/shimmed
ARP L19 Head studs
ARP Main Studs
GM 6.0 MLS Head Gasket
Clevite 2199H Main bearing
Clevite 663H Cam bearing
Keyed Balancer

Clearances:
Piston to bore-.005
Main brg-.0025
Rod brg-.0022
Ring end gap-.028 top, .021 second
Rod side clear-.022
Deck Height-9.230
Quench-.040 w/.045 gasket
Bob weight-1778 gm





Robert

Whose doing the motor for you??
Old 05-25-2007 | 09:17 PM
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The shortblock was built by LME, and that's where the L19 head studs are coming from, they were back ordered. On the coolant, well that's the word, not totally sure on the whole story yet. Will find out though. Turbo Tech in Tacoma is doing the assembly and install, n/a tuning, then I will take it from there. First time in my life that I have had someone else build a motor or do engine work for one of my rides, other than machining, but that's ok, both companies are top notch.
Robert
Old 05-25-2007 | 09:23 PM
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hmm...

i would really like to go with these head studs if they are that much better because i really dont feel like my heads lifting on the big shot.

so if i went with these, i would need the evans waterpump, and coolant. so then going from normal 270 dollar head studs, it adds up to almost a grand for L19 headstuds and waterpump.

post up what you find out about the coolant, im going to hold off on ordering head studs for a bit i guess.

thanks Robert for the info
Old 05-26-2007 | 07:24 AM
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I have been running L19's since 2004. No problems and I have used GM coolants and one time I put regular coolant in the car w/out any issues.
Old 05-26-2007 | 07:31 AM
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L19's work great. And as persons have allready stated the have 40% more clamping force. Im using these head studs with the SCE titan's with O rings in the gaskets. Should hold very well for boosted and sprayed applications. Funny I was @ LME when your block was being prepped
Old 05-26-2007 | 07:31 AM
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seems like just making sure the head bolt holes are dry before putting the studs in and youd be ok. I dont think Evans coolant would be necassary. The head bolts dont go through water jackets.
Old 05-26-2007 | 10:49 AM
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Originally Posted by smok'nZ
nice so you going l92's rite?
Yes that's the plan. At this point will prob go with the package from SLP. However, for right now I will be using mild LS6 heads/intake due to $$. Trying to get back into a Race series here in the NW.


seems like just making sure the head bolt holes are dry before putting the studs in and youd be ok. I dont think Evans coolant would be necassary. The head bolts dont go through water jackets.
That's my thoughts. Can't really see any need to go with Evans, and at this point plan on reg anti fridge. Al, how's your project coming?

What do you guys think on a timing chain? Turbo Tech mech says the LS6 chain is fine and they run it on all the big HP TTi packages. Mine only has 15K miles on it and seems to check out fine, would you run it?
Robert
Old 05-26-2007 | 10:54 AM
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I went with the double roller chain and milled down the meliling oil pump case and timing cover.
Old 05-26-2007 | 11:49 AM
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Originally Posted by 383LQ4SS
seems like just making sure the head bolt holes are dry before putting the studs in and youd be ok. I dont think Evans coolant would be necassary. The head bolts dont go through water jackets.
thats what i was thinking, i was talking to my friend about it and he said coolant doesnt touch the damn things so how the hell is it going to corrode them.

i just need to find a set of these, i already e-mailed LME to see if they could get them, im not sure where else to look, hell i cant even find a part number for them.

im going with the L92s and want to try to keep them from lifting since they dont have all the meat on there like an aftermarket head
Old 05-26-2007 | 06:10 PM
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Originally Posted by TwoFast4Lv
Looks Good Robert!
Sorry about scaring the Baddest LT1 in NW into retirement.
Robert
Old 05-26-2007 | 06:12 PM
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Originally Posted by JMBLOWNWS6
I went with the double roller chain and milled down the meliling oil pump case and timing cover.
What brand chain, and how much? Yea, the mech had said something about milling to make a double roller work, but then said no need unless I wanted to go that route.
Robert
Old 05-26-2007 | 08:13 PM
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robert glad to see your coming back together..

we should both be back to running around the same time of course my nitrous usage has benn severely diminished..

i was wondering the other day.. how many bottles did you put through your car on the 285??

i went 3 i think on the 300
and i can't even begine to count how many on the 200-250
but i had started lifting the head a tad.. i'm wondering if we both ran into the limit of stock parts at about the same time..

congrats

Mike
Old 05-27-2007 | 02:40 PM
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Originally Posted by blacktransam
robert glad to see your coming back together..

we should both be back to running around the same time of course my nitrous usage has benn severely diminished..

i was wondering the other day.. how many bottles did you put through your car on the 285??

i went 3 i think on the 300
and i can't even begine to count how many on the 200-250
but i had started lifting the head a tad.. i'm wondering if we both ran into the limit of stock parts at about the same time..

congrats

Mike
The 285rwhp shot was only once, on the dyno, and that 665rwtq @ 3800rpm was the clincher. I ran the end of last season, and the begining of this season at the 250rwhp level (never did get a fastest run cause of traction). Actual bottles, don't know, and lost count of sprayed runs at about 200. I stll believe the LS6 could take a 300rwhp shot, and if I did it again it would be a triple stage, bringing the last 100 in at a higher rpm. Never had a problem lifting the heads or any gasket seepage, just the ringland.

What is your new set-up again, a 408?
Robert
Old 05-27-2007 | 02:44 PM
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Originally Posted by Robert56
What brand chain, and how much? Yea, the mech had said something about milling to make a double roller work, but then said no need unless I wanted to go that route.
Robert
Rollmaster. With ARP cam bolts.
Old 05-27-2007 | 06:23 PM
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Originally Posted by Robert56

What is your new set-up again, a 408?
Robert


nope i actually went with a forged 347 and one of those hairdryers..

but don't get me wrong the car will still have 2 kits..

congrats on coming back together.. and keep spraying big

Mike
Old 05-28-2007 | 09:35 AM
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Robert looks like your progress is better than mine right now (416 l92). Hope the details get worked out quickly for you
Old 05-28-2007 | 11:00 AM
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Originally Posted by Robert56
The shortblock was built by LME, and that's where the L19 head studs are coming from, they were back ordered. On the coolant, well that's the word, not totally sure on the whole story yet. Will find out though. Turbo Tech in Tacoma is doing the assembly and install, n/a tuning, then I will take it from there. First time in my life that I have had someone else build a motor or do engine work for one of my rides, other than machining, but that's ok, both companies are top notch.
Robert
Finally we agree on something useful - LME !!
Old 05-28-2007 | 12:50 PM
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Originally Posted by JoeyGC5
Robert looks like your progress is better than mine right now (416 l92). Hope the details get worked out quickly for you
Very cool. Yea I was looking at a 427 L92 package, but the $$ was a bit much for me at this time. keep us informed on what/when/where on your new set-up.

Originally Posted by BadAssFast
Finally we agree on something useful - LME !!
Oh come on, we agree sometimes. You know, I was taught when you have a problem with someone, and it doesn't carry over to a point where you want to kill them, then you have a friend.
Robert


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