Building first switch panel
Getting ready to wire up my first switch panel as my cutout rocker switch takes up almost the entire ash tray and have a few questions...
For the arm and bottle warmer I think all I need would be 2 SPST switches of my choice, and two LED's of my choice. I was thinking of just going as small as possible and getting 3mm. Is this everything or would I need any resistors or other components?
For the remote opener I had a question. Would this use a momentary switch? If so, how can I wire an led to indicate whether the bottle is open or closed?
And finally, would I wire all of these switches into a relay and then wire the relay into a power supply or would I have to wire each switch to a power source individually?
Thanks, I'm new to this so any kind of advice or even schematics would be great as I'm going to piece the nitrous setup together myself and won't have any real instructions to go off of...
For the arm and bottle warmer I think all I need would be 2 SPST switches of my choice, and two LED's of my choice. I was thinking of just going as small as possible and getting 3mm. Is this everything or would I need any resistors or other components?
For the remote opener I had a question. Would this use a momentary switch? If so, how can I wire an led to indicate whether the bottle is open or closed?
And finally, would I wire all of these switches into a relay and then wire the relay into a power supply or would I have to wire each switch to a power source individually?
Thanks, I'm new to this so any kind of advice or even schematics would be great as I'm going to piece the nitrous setup together myself and won't have any real instructions to go off of...
I too am curious about the power wiring. That is the only thing I have left to do. I just am not sure how to tap the power to all the switches safely.
You will need to place a resistor in line with the LED. I would use a 1K Ohm or 1.5K Ohm. If you can get a 12V LED you wont need it. The NX bottle opener does not use a momentary switch. It used a dpdt switch wired to reverse the polarity. You can use an LED to show if it is open or closed. You also want all your switches to triger relays to switch the power to the solenoids, heater, and remote opener. I will draw up a pictoral wiring diagram for you using 2 switches and 4 relays. Switch one to arm and open the bottle, and switch 2 to turn on bottle heater. You will have to give me a day or 2 but you will have it before the weekend. Cool?
Very cool, that would be a huge help. You can take your time as I don't even have the setup all ordered yet I'm just sort of covering all the little details before hand to avoid the little problems I usually seem to run into
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. No prob, just let me know exactly what you get. That way I know what kind of switches, relays, and other stuff came with it. I will hold off until u get that stuff then I wont have to change stuff around to match it. Just hit me up with some email when you are ready.
I have never used a relay with any wiring I have done(besides the bottle heater b/c I was kinda confused on how to wire it without it). I always wire the stuff straight to a power source and through the necassary switch or two in there and thats it(well besides a ground).
Josh S.
Josh S.
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Thanks again, sent you some mail. If you can wire the opener and arm on one switch that would be even better than what I was asking for in the mail
. Is it ok to run the warmer while the bottle is still closed though or would the system have to always be armed for the warmer to work?
. Is it ok to run the warmer while the bottle is still closed though or would the system have to always be armed for the warmer to work? 
