Install Tips and Tricks
Install Tips and Tricks Next weekend I plan to install my first NX kit. It's an NXL kit I picked up along with a Maximizer II. Anyway, I can read the installation manual all day but it won't provide me with the benefit of hearing good old fashioned tips and tricks you experienced folks may have. I'd love to hear what you have to say about safe and clean installations while staying away from pitfalls. Pictures are always worth a 1000 words. 
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Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 139
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From: Downriver
Originally Posted by captainwizbang
Next weekend I plan to install my first NX kit. It's an NXL kit I picked up along with a Maximizer II. Anyway, I can read the installation manual all day but it won't provide me with the benefit of hearing good old fashioned tips and tricks you experienced folks may have. I'd love to hear what you have to say about safe and clean installations while staying away from pitfalls. Pictures are always worth a 1000 words.
Chad @ Livernois Motorsports
yep i'm also doing my first install on my OWN car. I only partially assisted once in another install. I've heard to take it slow, do a nice professional looking job, make it look like a good clean install.~Cole~
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A few I'd like to add from the questions that usually come up....
1. Physically mount the pieces first making sure the feed lines are long enough.
2. Run the feed lines but don't hook it to the bottle... yet.
3. Start the wiring. TAKE YOUR TIME. Seems like this is where everyone gets crossed up. Use 12 awg. wire for solenoids and bottle openers. If you're using a heater, and it's in the back of the car, use a 10 awg. wire to power it. Long distances require thicker wires.
4. DON'T GANG WIRES together and then run ONE wire to a power or ground.
5. Don't use "vampire" connectors. (little blue ones that just cut into the wire with a lock tab). They aren't that great. They are ok for TPS signal and Tach signal as those are very low voltage. Use crimp butt connectors for everything else.
6. Use different color wires. (common colors). BLK for grounds, RED for constant 12v and YELLOW (or BLUE) for switched 12v. It will be easier to wire and much easier to diagnose if ya screwed up.
7. GOOD GROUNDS. Not just any screw close by. If you use a DVM and put one lead on your ground screw you want to use, and the other lead on the battery terminal ground, you should see less than 1v. Anything more, forget it and find somewhere else or run a wire up to the battery. (this is also the same thing that usually causes noise in audio amps. It's called "ground loop").
See ya at the track!
1. Physically mount the pieces first making sure the feed lines are long enough.
2. Run the feed lines but don't hook it to the bottle... yet.
3. Start the wiring. TAKE YOUR TIME. Seems like this is where everyone gets crossed up. Use 12 awg. wire for solenoids and bottle openers. If you're using a heater, and it's in the back of the car, use a 10 awg. wire to power it. Long distances require thicker wires.
4. DON'T GANG WIRES together and then run ONE wire to a power or ground.
5. Don't use "vampire" connectors. (little blue ones that just cut into the wire with a lock tab). They aren't that great. They are ok for TPS signal and Tach signal as those are very low voltage. Use crimp butt connectors for everything else.
6. Use different color wires. (common colors). BLK for grounds, RED for constant 12v and YELLOW (or BLUE) for switched 12v. It will be easier to wire and much easier to diagnose if ya screwed up.
7. GOOD GROUNDS. Not just any screw close by. If you use a DVM and put one lead on your ground screw you want to use, and the other lead on the battery terminal ground, you should see less than 1v. Anything more, forget it and find somewhere else or run a wire up to the battery. (this is also the same thing that usually causes noise in audio amps. It's called "ground loop").
See ya at the track!
Thanks Todd, thats the kind of feedback I was looking for. It's always the little things that will bite you in the butt.
Anyone have recommendations on the path I should take for my line from the bottle (in the trunk) to the engine compartment?
Anyone have recommendations on the path I should take for my line from the bottle (in the trunk) to the engine compartment?
Originally Posted by captainwizbang
Thanks Todd, thats the kind of feedback I was looking for. It's always the little things that will bite you in the butt.
Anyone have recommendations on the path I should take for my line from the bottle (in the trunk) to the engine compartment?
Anyone have recommendations on the path I should take for my line from the bottle (in the trunk) to the engine compartment?
i ran mine under the car with the brake lines, i like that because i was able to put it in the heat shield
Good Infor Todd....very helpful.
I plan on running my line from the spare tire compartment inside the car along the passenger seat and through the grommet under the PCM
I plan on running my line from the spare tire compartment inside the car along the passenger seat and through the grommet under the PCM
Read the directions two or three times before you attempt the install, and consult the nitrous wizards here if you need clarity on anything no matter how small.
I ran my feed line through the interior, under that plastic along the passenger seat and through the grommet behind your pcm, you'll prolly have to pull your pcm and remove your passenger side kick panel to access the grommet.
do it once, do it right
I ran my feed line through the interior, under that plastic along the passenger seat and through the grommet behind your pcm, you'll prolly have to pull your pcm and remove your passenger side kick panel to access the grommet.
do it once, do it right