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Limit of Nitrous on stock Aluminum Block

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Old 07-09-2007, 09:26 AM
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Originally Posted by 02SOMWS6
the limit is the fuel system and your heads lifting and a good tune. The crank ,rods with aftermarket bolts and block are not your limited factor. A stand alone fuel system is going to be a must

I would disagree .no stand alone here. If you have a good single system you don't need 2
Old 07-09-2007, 09:28 AM
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I have had the l19's for a while. They were a good secret for a minute. LOL...I still haver afew though LOL
Old 07-09-2007, 01:16 PM
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IMO you should shoot for a target of TOTAL hp. 750-800 at the flywheel isnt too hard to achieve safely IMO with a 347 and basic parts. Regular ARP head studs, GM stock MLS gaskets, basic pistons, basic H beam rods, stock crank, stock block.

I do believe you will need 2 stages to limit TQ if you are going to be starting your spraying below 4000 rpm. In other words...if you will be spraying a 300 shot total to get you from 480 crank HP to 780 crank hp and you will be spraying from 3400 on up you should split the 300 shot into two 150s or something similair and spray one at 3400 and the other at 4800. Or if doing it by time for the strip you can do one at 3400 to get off the line and the other at some time period down the track with a time delay.

I have always prefered the rpm method for street cars and the time method for automatic track cars.

If you split up the 300 shot this limits the cylinder pressure and will allow for a much larger shot much safer.

IMO if you can get 3/5 of the total hp goal all motor the remaining 2/5 can be had from juice pretty easy. Especially if you use stages. I have done several cars like that. There is a sliding scale IMO on the benifits of making as much as possible NA and using as little juice as possible to make your goals. Does making as much "as possible NA" mean you will be spinning the motor to 8000 rpm with a solid roller? Or are your goals to be a street car? So I ty to use the 2/5 analogy to plan whats easily possible.

In other words if the total HP goal is 800 flywheel...would you rather make 700 rwhp all motor with a solid roller, sheetmetal intake etc etc and then spray a 100 shot? of course not. You rather make a mild 500 flywheel and then spray a 300 shot split up into dual stages. The second option is likley to be more reliable and a WHOLE LOT LESS $$$$.

One of the ones I have done in the past was a 383 that made a wopping 420 rwhp all motor but made 715rwhp on the 300 shot.

Another was a 408 that made 510 on motor (490 on the nitrous tune) and 868 rwhp on the "400" shot.

There was nothing special about either of those motors. And those numbers were a little more I think that the 3/5 and 2/5 anaology.

So IMO set a total HP goal...and then work back from that point to plan your setup.
Old 07-10-2007, 06:05 AM
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wow that got me thinking ... the car is a street car i guess.. well sorta .. sometimes.. ha ha .. but i want it fast on the track and highway runs...

the goals are to hit a solid 450+RWHP and a 300 shot.. split in 2 stages or a full 300 shot on a progresive controler.... or now im thinking direct port but might not ...

so i guess 750whp is the total goal for the aluminum short block... in the future i will build a big cube motor with lots of rpm and boost... for now its the juice ...

parts on the motor ..or soon to be bought for it are

1 7/8 longtubes and turn downs on twin electric cutouts
cold air intake
spec 4 4puck clutch
Fast 90/90
milled TSP 2.5 5.3l heads w cometics head gaskets...
arp head bolts
MS4 cam (will be running most of the time off the bottle so i rather not get a nitrous cam)
roller rockers
eagle h beam rods and arp 2000 rod bolts
custom nitrous mahle pistons and rings
50lbs injectors and twin 255lph pumps
TNT 2 stage kit 300 jettings or maybe their direct port kit dunno yet...
and of course a baddddd **** tune

anyone have a differnt set up they think i should run or is this a good combo for the 750RWhp goal...minimum ...

oh and i got a wide band gauge hooked up and it will only be stayed with the 300 shot when 116 is in the tank just for some info..

please anyone with experiences with these parts let me knw if im headed on the right direction ..or if my money should be spent on different parts .pleeease before i spent the huge wad of cash in my wallet !!!

thanks again for the people helping out with my lil build...
Old 07-10-2007, 12:45 PM
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Originally Posted by LSx007
wow that got me thinking ... the car is a street car i guess.. well sorta .. sometimes.. ha ha .. but i want it fast on the track and highway runs...

the goals are to hit a solid 450+RWHP and a 300 shot.. split in 2 stages or a full 300 shot on a progresive controler.... or now im thinking direct port but might not ...

so i guess 750whp is the total goal for the aluminum short block... in the future i will build a big cube motor with lots of rpm and boost... for now its the juice ...

parts on the motor ..or soon to be bought for it are

1 7/8 longtubes and turn downs on twin electric cutouts
cold air intake
spec 4 4puck clutch
Fast 90/90
milled TSP 2.5 5.3l heads w cometics head gaskets...
arp head bolts
MS4 cam (will be running most of the time off the bottle so i rather not get a nitrous cam)
roller rockers
eagle h beam rods and arp 2000 rod bolts
custom nitrous mahle pistons and rings
50lbs injectors and twin 255lph pumps
TNT 2 stage kit 300 jettings or maybe their direct port kit dunno yet...
and of course a baddddd **** tune

anyone have a differnt set up they think i should run or is this a good combo for the 750RWhp goal...minimum ...

oh and i got a wide band gauge hooked up and it will only be stayed with the 300 shot when 116 is in the tank just for some info..

please anyone with experiences with these parts let me knw if im headed on the right direction ..or if my money should be spent on different parts .pleeease before i spent the huge wad of cash in my wallet !!!

thanks again for the people helping out with my lil build...

I think all that stuff is just fine. It really will depend on the kit and how its setup. You may be playing with fire trying to get a 300 wet down the intake. There is a danger of a nitrous backfire with that much fuel in the intake. You may have to go one stage dry and one stage wet. Or one stage dry or wet down the intake and one stage direct port...or a direct port on a progressive controller.

You can also go two stage dry since your injectors anf fuel pumps will be ready for it. Youll need a good tuner for that. If I were you I would make the goal 625 rwhp at first and then work your way to 700 rwhp. Then run at that point for a while. It seems very easy to reach that goal on these cars for whatever reason. But going to 750+ you begin to walk a much finer line.
Use PLENTY of retard and PLENTY of octane. Do NOT be afraid of timing retard. Id say thats the #1 problem people cant get past when running big shots. They think they are losing too much power to timing retard. Id rather give up 15-20 hp from timing than lose the motor.


Oh...and I would splurge for head studs over head bolts. Youll likley need to swap head gaskets atleast once before you get everything situated...lol. Head studs make changing gaskets a BREEZE.

Last edited by 383LQ4SS; 07-10-2007 at 12:51 PM.
Old 07-11-2007, 04:40 AM
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umm thats alot of options for a 300 shot ... and ill be sparying in increments till i reach the 300 shot goal ...
750 is pushing it on these engines and nitrous ?? or on the block ?

what are head studs ? differenece between studs and head bolts ?
Old 07-11-2007, 09:25 AM
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There is a guy in my area with a Silver WS6 that runs 9's, Its a forged motor but its still the stock 346 LS1 block, He has hit it with as big as 275 and hits it with 250 like its his job
Old 07-11-2007, 12:41 PM
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yeah ive heard of alot of people who have done it before ... what other options are there for 346 block.... cause a 300 shot might be the begening for my nitrous engines and will be looking for something with more nitrouse capabilitys a lil later in the future

do u knw what that ws6 was pushing out to the wheels on the juice ?



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