Couple pics of the motor in the car.
Looks awesome, hope to see it in person one of these days, with any luck I may get to NED end of the month for a pass.
Let me know if you need any A/C or radio delete panels w/ Gauge holes.
Beer
Let me know if you need any A/C or radio delete panels w/ Gauge holes.
Beer
Thread Starter
8 second mod
iTrader: (37)
Joined: Nov 2002
Posts: 17,879
Likes: 1
From: East Side Performance! mASShole
thanks everyone. im happy with it. besides now i have the new cam in and rockers ect. lol
its always somthing.
as for fuses, i eliminated everything!!!!!
i have one main fuse (60 amp) that wires to a distribution block.
one main wire goes int the car, then to the block, then out to all my powers ect.
its super clean, but like i said it was not easy.
then the motor is a painless harness that i cut every wire i didnt need off of, then rerouted everything, and boom. done.
it took a while over the winter thats for sure
its always somthing.
as for fuses, i eliminated everything!!!!!
i have one main fuse (60 amp) that wires to a distribution block.
one main wire goes int the car, then to the block, then out to all my powers ect.
its super clean, but like i said it was not easy.
then the motor is a painless harness that i cut every wire i didnt need off of, then rerouted everything, and boom. done.
it took a while over the winter thats for sure
can you get some pics of where you hid your junction box and some other places where you hid your relays... im really curious to know how exactically you did this....
what is in the car that has to have power?
headlights hi/low
dome lights
power windows
power locks
Electric h20 pump
fans
blinkers
brake lights
reverse lights
WBo2/cigarette lighter for lm-1
do you have factory dash gauges or after market
any thing else?
what part number from painless did you use?
thanks,
tyler
what is in the car that has to have power?
headlights hi/low
dome lights
power windows
power locks
Electric h20 pump
fans
blinkers
brake lights
reverse lights
WBo2/cigarette lighter for lm-1
do you have factory dash gauges or after market
any thing else?
what part number from painless did you use?
thanks,
tyler
Thread Starter
8 second mod
iTrader: (37)
Joined: Nov 2002
Posts: 17,879
Likes: 1
From: East Side Performance! mASShole
Originally Posted by ty_ty13
can you get some pics of where you hid your junction box and some other places where you hid your relays... im really curious to know how exactically you did this....
what is in the car that has to have power?
headlights hi/low
dome lights
power windows
power locks
Electric h20 pump
fans
blinkers
brake lights
reverse lights
WBo2/cigarette lighter for lm-1
do you have factory dash gauges or after market
any thing else?
what part number from painless did you use?
thanks,
tyler
what is in the car that has to have power?
headlights hi/low
dome lights
power windows
power locks
Electric h20 pump
fans
blinkers
brake lights
reverse lights
WBo2/cigarette lighter for lm-1
do you have factory dash gauges or after market
any thing else?
what part number from painless did you use?
thanks,
tyler
i mounted my batt on the other side.
i ran the one main wire into the fender well, and in threw the door jam under the dash. i mounted a block to the bottom side of the door.
i run a custom dash.
i ran all the wiring from the block to the gauges, i ran a power wire to the windo switch and the light switch, then from the switch it does its own thing.
i dont run dome light and cig lighter, i hard wire everything.
my electric pump ect i ran a power from the block to a switch pannal, then from there i go to my acceseries.
its hard to explain it, i just did it and ran with it.
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Thanks for giving me ideas on adding 10-20 hours to my Nova re-wiring job! 
Originally Posted by Noyzee
without pulling my dash i cant get pics.
i mounted my batt on the other side.
i ran the one main wire into the fender well, and in threw the door jam under the dash. i mounted a block to the bottom side of the door.
i run a custom dash.
i ran all the wiring from the block to the gauges, i ran a power wire to the windo switch and the light switch, then from the switch it does its own thing.
i dont run dome light and cig lighter, i hard wire everything.
my electric pump ect i ran a power from the block to a switch pannal, then from there i go to my acceseries.
its hard to explain it, i just did it and ran with it.
i mounted my batt on the other side.
i ran the one main wire into the fender well, and in threw the door jam under the dash. i mounted a block to the bottom side of the door.
i run a custom dash.
i ran all the wiring from the block to the gauges, i ran a power wire to the windo switch and the light switch, then from the switch it does its own thing.
i dont run dome light and cig lighter, i hard wire everything.
my electric pump ect i ran a power from the block to a switch pannal, then from there i go to my acceseries.
its hard to explain it, i just did it and ran with it.
again, very nicely done... i like how you placed your battery also...
very impressive... hopefully this winter i'll find the money to go bs3 with racepak ultra dash and get rid of a lot of wiring and stock gauges...
i need to make everything under the dash more accesable any ways....
i do think you need the burkhart K-member and motor plates and then powder coat the motor plates (except around the bolt holes)
do you have the stock windshield in or is that lexan?
do you have the stock windshield in or is that lexan?
Thread Starter
8 second mod
iTrader: (37)
Joined: Nov 2002
Posts: 17,879
Likes: 1
From: East Side Performance! mASShole
thanks guys! lots of time for sure.
boner of the month, lol do it up.
as for the gauges, just make your own setup. you dont need bs3. i dont run it, i cut all but my water temp gauge (need that to tell the computer when to kick over to the warmed up tables.)
rip out everything and start fresh, just take your time and think about everything first, its alot of work, but man its nice, and its easy to work on, and easy to find problems.
pics also dont do it justic
boner of the month, lol do it up.
as for the gauges, just make your own setup. you dont need bs3. i dont run it, i cut all but my water temp gauge (need that to tell the computer when to kick over to the warmed up tables.)
rip out everything and start fresh, just take your time and think about everything first, its alot of work, but man its nice, and its easy to work on, and easy to find problems.
pics also dont do it justic
Originally Posted by Noyzee
thanks guys! lots of time for sure.
boner of the month, lol do it up.
as for the gauges, just make your own setup. you dont need bs3. i dont run it, i cut all but my water temp gauge (need that to tell the computer when to kick over to the warmed up tables.)
rip out everything and start fresh, just take your time and think about everything first, its alot of work, but man its nice, and its easy to work on, and easy to find problems.
pics also dont do it justic
boner of the month, lol do it up.
as for the gauges, just make your own setup. you dont need bs3. i dont run it, i cut all but my water temp gauge (need that to tell the computer when to kick over to the warmed up tables.)
rip out everything and start fresh, just take your time and think about everything first, its alot of work, but man its nice, and its easy to work on, and easy to find problems.
pics also dont do it justic
bs3 also data logs drive shaft, input shaft, fuel psi, egt, and closed loop auto correction factor based off a WBo2...
but that race pack gauge is just icing on the cake and easy...
