progressive for big noids....
progressive for big noids.... 
my beck sheetmetal will have 4 of these. I am not sure on which controller to buy. Some say they are good to 40amps, will that cut it? I would prefer it had a window switch built in so it would be easier to wire. I am going to also run a msd timing twister, fpss, dynotunes new a/f cut off, and a fast wide band.
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The NOS controller is only rated for 40a/stage...but it can be wired to handle more amp draw if you are only controlling 1 stage.
You will combine both stage control wires and program both stage the same.
The FJO will handle a 4 solenoid kit on a single stage
You will combine both stage control wires and program both stage the same.
The FJO will handle a 4 solenoid kit on a single stage
Originally Posted by Robert56
But in the real world this does not pan out. meaning, look at all the serious racers on this site 95% run multi stage. No matter what spin the vendors put on this, it's still less than desirable for most, at least at this point and time. Statisics don't lie.
We could go with this theory, Progressive controllers are for those that do not know how to set up a multi stage, and multi stage is more for the advanced users. I really can't see the need for a progessive if you know what your doing, concerning dual/triple staging.
Robert
We could go with this theory, Progressive controllers are for those that do not know how to set up a multi stage, and multi stage is more for the advanced users. I really can't see the need for a progessive if you know what your doing, concerning dual/triple staging.
Robert
Originally Posted by GueSS Who
Unless you are restricted to one stage like lots of true 10.5 racing rules specify. Then you run a 3-500 single stage with a controller......Problem with a controller is
It still opens fully so the torque is still there, even if it is coming on and off really fast. We ran a car on the dyno with a NOS digital controller at 50% total and then the next run we stepped it up to 100%....It made the same hp and tq it was just alittle choopier with 50% on.......I race a car in True street and we can put the controller on 35-100% of a 350 shot in 1.2 secs and it goes the same exact 60ft as 75-100% in 1.0.....See what I am saying...... You really have to work the controller to get the effects you want out of it. With the black camaro I used to race that went 5.56 had a 2 stage dry kit. Left off 1 stage and grabbed the second one well before the 60ft. But the 1st stage had enough fuel in it to compensate for the 2nd stage and also had enough timing pulled for the second stage when I left off the brake also. so it wasn't making a billion tq off the brake....To much fuel and not enough timing kills the torque, which made for a 1.29 60ft on radials.......I have 2 stage on my car and BS3 contols everything.
It still opens fully so the torque is still there, even if it is coming on and off really fast. We ran a car on the dyno with a NOS digital controller at 50% total and then the next run we stepped it up to 100%....It made the same hp and tq it was just alittle choopier with 50% on.......I race a car in True street and we can put the controller on 35-100% of a 350 shot in 1.2 secs and it goes the same exact 60ft as 75-100% in 1.0.....See what I am saying...... You really have to work the controller to get the effects you want out of it. With the black camaro I used to race that went 5.56 had a 2 stage dry kit. Left off 1 stage and grabbed the second one well before the 60ft. But the 1st stage had enough fuel in it to compensate for the 2nd stage and also had enough timing pulled for the second stage when I left off the brake also. so it wasn't making a billion tq off the brake....To much fuel and not enough timing kills the torque, which made for a 1.29 60ft on radials.......I have 2 stage on my car and BS3 contols everything.
I dont like using a progressor either and Guess who did a good job of explaining why.
I have gone back and forth on going dual stage or progressive... I am not sure which way to go yet. If I split it up I will have to spray a 100shot with a singe nozzle and 200 on the directport or more. On the beck intake I am worried about distrubution with a single nozzle on the 100shot even though it would probuly be fine. Also wiring would be alot easier with a progressive. Both setups both have their advantages. I dont like the pounding of noids but I dont think it would be on for more then a second.
If I went dual stage I would just put the 200shot on a time delay and do 100 of the brake. I could tie the car down and see if I could do all 300 at once.
It will take a while before I get this all going anyway the car is getting a custom setup fab9, afco coilovers, and some extras right now.
If I went dual stage I would just put the 200shot on a time delay and do 100 of the brake. I could tie the car down and see if I could do all 300 at once.
It will take a while before I get this all going anyway the car is getting a custom setup fab9, afco coilovers, and some extras right now.
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I seen a money maker in person tonight but had to change the info because nitrous outlet thinks they have something new that no one has.
Last edited by ls1408cp; Sep 4, 2007 at 10:45 AM.
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