Anybody got a pic you can post of the yellow wire on the passenger side of the car? The one which would be the 'switched' power source to my arming switch on my switch panel?

 

I tapped into traction control, another spot I used was directly into the fuse box, There are switched spots there. I'm on vacation so no pics here.

 

Thanks for the info. I'll explore they fusebox tap. To me, that would be the idea place of any place ... anybody else got a pic of where you tapped into yours?

 

send me your e mail addy I'll send you pics, I just got home.

 

I tapped into the ign port in the fuse box inside the car. Be cautious tho I kept blowing my guages fuse from drawing to much power.

 

I hooked a 10awg wire and an inline fuse to the aux post (next to the fuse boxes under the hood) and ran that through the firewall to my center console. I daisy chained that to all of my switches to supply the hot lead for them. I run relays for all of my bigger accessories (bottle heater, nitrous activation, digital nitrous gauge, purge, and line locks) so I don't draw a lot of power through that 10awg wire. Works fine for me!

 

Thats a great idea, kinda mini fuse box in the center consol.

 

I do planning on doing an inline fuse between the switched source aon the arming switch. Should I use a 15 amp rated fuse or would that be too low?

And while trying to keep the wiring to a minimum, I planned to daisy-chain the hot leads together for the arm/purge/timing tuner switches ... with the timing tuner ground connection to the ground side of the relay. I do have a 60 amp relay for the WOT (activation) switch and guages ... and another 60 amp relay for the bottle heater/transducer.

Does this sound like optimal connectivity for power? Or, should I alter this?