Nitrous Express Carbon Solenoid Problems, check yours out
Car #1 ( LS1 MAF kit)
The nitrous solenoid stuck open after a 1/8 mile run at the track. My friend heard the kit still spraying when he was pulling on to the return road. He turned off the bottle then killed the car. He said as the car was shutting off it back fired and blew up his FAST intake, (Pic 1 ), shattered the winshield, (pic 2 ), cracked the WS6 hood and lifted it off the hood hinges. When he opened the hood it was on fire , thus the flame retardent all over the engine bay to put it out .. Talk about a bad day , it was the first run. Only a 402 with a 100 shot 1/8 mile. 7.3 at 94mph... After we got home , we turned the bottle back on, the nitrous noid was still stuck open..
PIC 1

Pic 2

Pic 3

Car # 2
Another friend had a custom NX carbon direct port kit on his 402 with a 300 shot.
After countless problems with the kit and figuring out that problem were not relay or wiring related he tested his solenoids. Both nitrous noids would not fire at all, and one fuel didn't open all the way!!
He sent the noids back to NX and after a month they fixed the problem (no charge).. But they admitted that " When the new carbon noids were sent out to be produced they were not machined to the same specs and the prototypes" As a result the noids were not firing or opening all the way!!!
Car #3
Basic gm kit, carbon noids, they would not fire all the time.
As a result car has been parked for poor performance. But after this weekend they will be shipped back to NX.
Not sure if anyone knows about the problem , other than NX.. But you may want to send them back to be checked out. A faulty $130.00 part just cost a friend around $6,000.00 in repairs and parts.
They may be getting a phone call from a lawyer in the future..
Funny how one of the best companies on the market can go the the worst with lack of R&D, or quality control.
I'll be sending my carbon kit back for inspection as well.
Last edited by roadtrip120; Sep 4, 2007 at 01:38 AM.
I just bought two practically new lightning solenoids. They are stage ones .78 orifice which I will be using for the dry kit. Maybe I'll send them to NX for inspection before I install them on my car.
If these can't be checked by the individual, then, maybe a NX rep can provide the standard way to ship them back and the what the cost would be, along with the turn-around time.
Randall, Craig, anyone?
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If you look at the design of the lighting solenoid vs older design, they are very similar, and share most of the same components. As far as I know, the piston, tower, and coil are all the exact same. Only the body and coil cover are different. With that being said, there should be no more probablility that a lighning solenoid would get stuck open and not any other solenoid.
In all cases I know of, a stuck solenoid is caused by debris holding it open. I have never seen any other reason for a stuck solenoid. It can happen to any solenoid at any time. Filters are your best defense against it, but anything can happen.
I certainly feel your pain with the damaged parts. Believe me, I know what thats like. It flat out sucks. You are very lucky you got the fire out that quick, it can spread very fast. Best of luck getting it back together.
Like mentioned before, maybe someone from NX could elaborate a little more.
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If you look at the design of the lighting solenoid vs older design, they are very similar, and share most of the same components. As far as I know, the piston, tower, and coil are all the exact same. Only the body and coil cover are different. With that being said, there should be no more probablility that a lighning solenoid would get stuck open and not any other solenoid.
In all cases I know of, a stuck solenoid is caused by debris holding it open. I have never seen any other reason for a stuck solenoid. It can happen to any solenoid at any time. Filters are your best defense against it, but anything can happen.
I certainly feel your pain with the damaged parts. Believe me, I know what thats like. It flat out sucks. You are very lucky you got the fire out that quick, it can spread very fast. Best of luck getting it back together.
Like mentioned before, maybe someone from NX could elaborate a little more.
What about what NX rep told my friend.
" When the new carbon noids were sent out to be produced they were not machined to the same specs and the prototypes" As a result the noids were not firing or opening all the way!!! They changed the orifice size, something about each noid could have sparyed a 700 shot but now only a 300 shot. And he said something about anything over 800psi caused the problem to occur.
After NX repaired the faulty noids on car#2, they put "Ice Man" on the carbon housings.
What about what NX rep told my friend.
" When the new carbon noids were sent out to be produced they were not machined to the same specs and the prototypes" As a result the noids were not firing or opening all the way!!! They changed the orifice size, something about each noid could have sparyed a 700 shot but now only a 300 shot. And he said something about anything over 800psi caused the problem to occur.
After NX repaired the faulty noids on car#2, they put "Ice Man" on the carbon housings.
As for what a NX rep told your friend... I have have no idea, I can't speak for NX. Again, maybe they can clarify.
this happened a few months ago btw.
we did burn up a purge noid, but i think it was a bad switch. vinny replaced it right away. thanks vin
but i run these noids and my cousins car has them. hopefully NX will jump on and fill us in. should we send them back?
"15200L" was on the bottom of the carbon nitrous noids, but when he got them back NX had changed to something else.
Both the MAF kit on the yellow car and the direct port kit had the "15200L" on the bottom of the noids. Maybe thats how we can tell if they are the bad one's.
He said NX changed the orifice from .125 to .110..






