Dynotune dry kit on the way. Write up soon to follow!
#22
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Originally Posted by mattl31
Unfortunately I wont be doing a window switch, or at least for now. Since my car is an automatic for now I plan on engaging the system manually after 3000 RPM. However, I'll be happy to be as detailed as possible on all the other things this will probably a slow thread to follow but ill try to make updates as often as possible since im juggling college and this at the same time. so far all i have done is the switch panel, which will be in the ash tray. of course the purge switch will be added as soon as it arrives in the mail. but for now heres a pic of the switch panel.
#26
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I used an exacto-knife to remove the shrader valve. Came out in just a few seconds. Used the exacto-knife like a screwdriver
As for the FPSS, I'd leave it at 35 psi. The idea of it is to kill the system if the pressure drops that low, and if it drops below 35 psi then the fuel pump probably died and isn't going to kick back on. If you have it set at say, 45-50 psi, the fuel pump may just have a little hiccup and briefly cut the solenoids out, but back on again. If it did this several times in quick succession, you can probably see the damage it could cause. I'd rather not beat my solenoids by having them trigger on/off multiple times on the same run
As for the FPSS, I'd leave it at 35 psi. The idea of it is to kill the system if the pressure drops that low, and if it drops below 35 psi then the fuel pump probably died and isn't going to kick back on. If you have it set at say, 45-50 psi, the fuel pump may just have a little hiccup and briefly cut the solenoids out, but back on again. If it did this several times in quick succession, you can probably see the damage it could cause. I'd rather not beat my solenoids by having them trigger on/off multiple times on the same run
#28
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Focus on your blow down tube... Where did you mount that bad boy. Or actually if you can, lets see a picture of it. Unless its not in yet....
And you said you are installing dry kit.. dont forget to remove the MAF screen.
And you said you are installing dry kit.. dont forget to remove the MAF screen.
#29
i'll probably get flamed for this but i'm not doing a blowdown tube....yet. the bottle will be used track only so i hadnt really thought about it just yet especially with the winter months coming up, the car wont be out much. I've been told you dont have to descreen the MAF? still wondering about the FPSS for anyone who has some insight.
#32
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Set the fpss at 35 (ish) lbs. You can use an air compressor and a DVM to calibrate it.
What size injectors are you running? Any way of watching DC or AFR?
If not, start with a small shot (50 max) and watch your fuel pressure and plugs. I'm assuming you know how to read plugs since you're not a new mechanic.
Also, what's this "tricky" switch set up you're thinking of to not spray through shifts????
What size injectors are you running? Any way of watching DC or AFR?
If not, start with a small shot (50 max) and watch your fuel pressure and plugs. I'm assuming you know how to read plugs since you're not a new mechanic.
Also, what's this "tricky" switch set up you're thinking of to not spray through shifts????
Last edited by Todd157k; 09-24-2007 at 11:56 AM.
#33
oh no no the switch is just an arming switch...im just going to kill it through shifts. i dont have traction in first anyway so it'll just be 2nd and 3rd that ill be using it until i spring for slicks. im sorry but what do you mean by DC? i'll only be doing the 50 shot until I get my dynotune wideband where ill run a 100 hit. and yes i'll be keeping an eye on those plugs. got some TR6's yesterday. those should be fun to install
#34
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Originally Posted by mattl31
oh no no the switch is just an arming switch...im just going to kill it through shifts. i dont have traction in first anyway so it'll just be 2nd and 3rd that ill be using it until i spring for slicks. im sorry but what do you mean by DC? i'll only be doing the 50 shot until I get my dynotune wideband where ill run a 100 hit. and yes i'll be keeping an eye on those plugs. got some TR6's yesterday. those should be fun to install
I realize in your case you are going to use an on/off button instead of a WOT switch but how do you plan to time the on/off with the precision shift of an A4?
I say stay away from manual activation and go with a WOT switch. They are only $12.xx for goodness sakes. What happens when you have an emergency with your hand on the on/off switch? Your instinct is to drop it to grab the wheel. Opps is the last thing your car is gonna be saying when you missed unarming the nitrous system as the rpms drop rapidly. A WOT Switch is an easy solution. You have an emergency you instinctivly take your foot of the gas to hit the brakes, N20 turns off automatically. They are included in kits for a reason. WOT Switch= 1 more safety measure.
Last edited by Cantalope Kid; 09-24-2007 at 03:06 PM.
#35
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Some people don't spray through the shifts because its hard on an old transmission. Never had any problems with that in my old automatic car and my friends T/A that went 11.70 on drag radials...with stock exhaust and a 125 dry shot.
#36
Cantalope Kid- I AM using a WOT switch...look in the pictures. ill have the pedal to the floor when im running down the track and IF i decided not to spray through the shift ill kill it via the arming switch, and turn it back on after the shift. no, probably not the most precise way to do it but i'd rather spend the money on a wideband to monitor the A/F than drop money on a window switch. sorry, i was kindof unclear in my posts.
Twisted SS- yeah i figured that a few passes spraying through the shifts shouldnt kill my tranny at 48XXX miles. so I'm leaving the FPSS at 35 psi everyone!?
Twisted SS- yeah i figured that a few passes spraying through the shifts shouldnt kill my tranny at 48XXX miles. so I'm leaving the FPSS at 35 psi everyone!?
#37
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DC= Duty Cycle. It's a log of how much the injectors are working to keep up (or try to). VERY important when running a dry kit.
Window switches aren't all that expensive. Specially when compared to the price of a motor or tranny. GET ONE. If you can't afford it right now, WAITto install, THEN BUY ONE. Things happen way too quickly for you to turn it on/off/on at the right times. Now, having said that, I sprayed through the shifts all the way up to 100 shot. At 100, I put the ws in. I figured it wouldn't be any different that heads/cam/headers and running that extra hp through the shifts. I also had adjusted my shifts for harder shifting which would be easier on the trans but harder on the rest of the drivetrain.
Window switches aren't all that expensive. Specially when compared to the price of a motor or tranny. GET ONE. If you can't afford it right now, WAITto install, THEN BUY ONE. Things happen way too quickly for you to turn it on/off/on at the right times. Now, having said that, I sprayed through the shifts all the way up to 100 shot. At 100, I put the ws in. I figured it wouldn't be any different that heads/cam/headers and running that extra hp through the shifts. I also had adjusted my shifts for harder shifting which would be easier on the trans but harder on the rest of the drivetrain.
#39
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Yes Please tell us of the sparying thru the shifts. I have automatic 02 z28, 50,000 miles on the car. garaged, etc. my dry kit should be here today, hopefully, maybe tomorrow, but I wanna here about the hitting thru shifts..
can it safely be done, or are you taking a chance on the tranny???
can it safely be done, or are you taking a chance on the tranny???