I just placed an order for an HSW single nozzle dry kit with the BMN window switch and a purge kit. I'm going to be running this on a '98 trans am with about 50K on the motor, A4 trans. I'm planning on placing the nozzle inside the air box and setting the window switch to on at 3000 to off at 5500 or 5600 RPM at no greater than a 125 shot for the time being. The only the things i think i'm lacking are a FPSS and a bottle heater. other than the mods in my sig all i have is a ported/polished TB and MAF. How does this setup sound to you guys? I've read up on N2O and have a basic understanding on how it works and this is why i went with the dry kit. Any advice helps, thanks guys!

 

Anyone?

 

Wet is safer, with the dry your computer has to read that the nitrous is being sprayed tricking it to add more gas. It wont always do this ...= kaboom. The wet puts the gas and nitrous in. I wouuld just go with a basic wet kit and get the upgrader for about 400 that comes with purge bottle heater fuel pressure safety swith WOT swith .

 

i've read up on both types and i'm sold on dry kits. Don't hve any experince yet but i hear of a lot wet kits failures due to fuel noid's getting stuck where as the only the only catastrophic failure on a dry kit would be the MAF sensor failing which is a lot less likely to go out. what kind of plugs would you guys recommend using and how many heat ranges colder than stock? i saw the reference chart sticky but didn't know what heat range i needed for my setup. thanks

 

TR6's

 

On a high quality kit the fuel noid going outis a lot less likely than the MAF computer not registering the amount of air

 

Man it never ceases to amaze me on the ridiculous ideas out there concerning dry hits, absolute nonsense. When's the last time you were driving down the road and your MAF and computer failed to fuel you properly, come on man, it works the same with dry hits. You really need to read the entire wet vs dry thread to see that all the old wive's tales have been put to rest. Time to start posting the correct insightfull information that is not missleading.
Robert

 

What a bunch of BS, absolute nonsense. Where you getting this missinformation, from the Honda Civic site?
Robert

 

U need injectors! TR6's, tune, etc! Go wet! Elevation sucks where we live! But the means we really run faster anywhere else! Im flying down to NM in december to see my friend! I heard NM is boring so im not looking forward to it!

 

stay dry. Your kit selection is fine. and dont worry your MAF will not magically die, It works fine NA, so it will work fine on a hit. Personally i would bump up the Ending RPM on your window switch a couple hundred RPM higher. i started with that exact kit, and i have just built on it. I love it and i couldnt be happier with it. good luck man, and be safe!

 

yeah dont listen to some of these tools on here.... the dry kit will be fine. i wouldthat about settin your rpm at about 3500 and then turning it off at about 5800. do you plan on puttin a stall on teh car b/c that will be a factor in when your going tospray

 

Robert56--- could you post a link for the Wet vs Dry Tread. I have searched but i couldnt come up with anything i must be looking in the wrong place..

 

would like to read that as well, cause i am bout to install a wet system , and dont really see to many bad things about it.

 

Wet has always been, and always will be the proper way to set up a nitrous kit IMO.
Dry kits work fine, but tuning is limited to the MAF, which is not designed to compensate for nitrous being injected into your motor.

We use the NOS wet kits for our customers cars, and allow upgrades along the way like a digital window switch, purge, custom controllers, and a heater (all neccesary items for proper nitrous use IMO).

Wet kits deliver both fuel and nitrous at the same time. Inspect your noids, and replace when needed and you will never have a problem- not to mention your tune will be dead on every time with wet and not neccesarily "hit or miss" with the MAF.

These are just my thoughts on the subject. Opinions of course will vary.

Erik

 

I did both, as well I threw in my nickle in the wet dry thread...

I found wet easier to set up and tune (Nitrous Outlet Plate), right out of the box.

Dry, while I like the inherent safety was much harder to set up. I discovered with my Stock LS1 (1999) I had insuffient injectors, and went way lean on a 75 shot (but could readily support the 50). 42 Pound injectors solved that problem. AFter some tweaking and tuning Dry is quickly becoming my favorite of the two (it was not easy to get going though).

People have blown their motors on both wet and dry kits, seems more with wet, but if more people are running wet (whats the poll at? 30-35% run dry kits???), odds are they will statically have a higher number blowing motors...

Part of the trouble is people bolt on a kit and expect NAWZ to give them the fast and furious rush without doing their homework. Guys not running bottle heaters with a base kit complaining it does not hit hard if at all, or guys running the bottle up to 1300 psi and not realizing if you do that to keep the proper AFR you need to jet up on the fuel....

At the same time guys knowing what they are doing have had failures that rendered the car unusable. Any power adder has risk and expenses.

Do your homework, understand AFR, if your going dry, understand the importance of nozzle position and how it works, and other tuning options such as EFI Live or HPT. Put in colder plugs, and use a window switch and a bottle heater.


If your not sure which way to go just do both like I did.

Call the vendors, Dynotune (Dan or Dean), HSW (Matt), Nitrous Outlet (Dave, Ray, or Chris) they will give you straight up advice without pushing the sale. While I have only installed a wet and dry kit on my car, these guys have VAST expierence and are well established. CALL em they will help ya and explain it better than many of us can.

 

Well said, Beer! I did about 6 months of research before I pulled the trigger and decided to go wet because it was simpler and I was a noob. It works great for me, but there is always that fear in the back of my head that the fuel solenoid will fail. I'm planning to replace them soon, just to be safe, so there's that extra expense.
In regards to the original post... get youself a bottle heater, FPSS, some larger injectors and a tune. Then go for it and enjoy!

99 FRC

 

Go DRY...ITS EASY TO INSTALL and HIDE..Try not to go over 100-125 hp you should be fine...NO problems out of my kit ...Its the DANG 4L60E u need to keep an EYE on...

 

Robert, i agreee with you on that dry is safer, if you have all your ducks in a row. When i got my car the maf was failing, not bad enough to set the ses light, but it would go dead lean at wot, the grams per sec was about half of what it should be. With either kit that would be bad. But for somebody that doesnt have access to proper equip to know if everything is running perfect a dry kit could do more damage. Either way you better make sure all your **** is right before you spray, wet or dry

 

Thanks for all the help guys. I'm picking up some TR6 plug from napa tomorrow. The bottle heater, FPSS, and injectors will be here as soon as the credit card recovers :-(. i've got a few good buddies and a really good mechanic down the road from me that are all willing help me set it up. As for New Mexico Dr Pookey it's not too bad especially if you are coming to Albuquerque, hell shoot me a PM while you are down here and i show you my car. i'll post an update as soon as i get everything installed. what do you guys pay to fill your bottles up? most everyone here in town is 4 bucks a pound.

 

Yea, i appreciated the advise as well.