Composite or Aluminum Intake for the big shot?
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Staging Lane
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From: Moody AFB Valdosta GA
Composite or Aluminum Intake for the big shot? I'm really liking the way that Weiand style intake looks for a 200 shot, but there are a lot of guys on here bashin the hell out of that intake and holdin the fast up on a devine pedistal.
For pure performance, a plastic manifold wins hands down.
But I really like aluminum, not from a performance or weight standpoint. (aluminum is about 15lbs heavier) But if you happen to get a hick-up, you can usually just drive through it with an aluminum manifold, vs. ending your day , and being out of a $1,000 plastic intake.
But I really like aluminum, not from a performance or weight standpoint. (aluminum is about 15lbs heavier) But if you happen to get a hick-up, you can usually just drive through it with an aluminum manifold, vs. ending your day , and being out of a $1,000 plastic intake.
If you expect alot of trial and error situations Aluminum is ultimately better but if you know how to run the juice and do it right, the FAST is more than enough and will perform awesome on all levels.
For pure performance, a plastic manifold wins hands down.
But I really like aluminum, not from a performance or weight standpoint. (aluminum is about 15lbs heavier) But if you happen to get a hick-up, you can usually just drive through it with an aluminum manifold, vs. ending your day , and being out of a $1,000 plastic intake.
But I really like aluminum, not from a performance or weight standpoint. (aluminum is about 15lbs heavier) But if you happen to get a hick-up, you can usually just drive through it with an aluminum manifold, vs. ending your day , and being out of a $1,000 plastic intake.
Robert
MAF's can get damaged but if your S/D then really nothing to worry about.
When I ran this set up I had the stages on 2 buttons, no window switch/ no WOT switch, and would hit hit right off the line, probably before my foot was even to the floor.
I had countless backfires with that, but it didn't matter, I wouldn't even let off... it would just drive through it. 
Man that was fun.
When I ran this set up I had the stages on 2 buttons, no window switch/ no WOT switch, and would hit hit right off the line, probably before my foot was even to the floor.
I had countless backfires with that, but it didn't matter, I wouldn't even let off... it would just drive through it. Man that was fun. Trending Topics
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I like the Aluminum for a couple reasons.
(1) you can direct port it & if you decide to remove the kit they can be welded back up & polished out without being able to notice something was ever there.
(2) can be port/polished to increase flow
(3) not gonna break if you have a nitrous backfire
(1) you can direct port it & if you decide to remove the kit they can be welded back up & polished out without being able to notice something was ever there.
(2) can be port/polished to increase flow
(3) not gonna break if you have a nitrous backfire
If you were going ot go with an alum like the edlebrick to gain n/a hp, hten I'd say go with the alum, but to go with the wieland one that heat soaks like mad it's not worth it, leave the plastic on there.
Not to mention heat soak is not a issue. The only time you'll see any effect of heak soak is in traffic while the car is sitting still. Otherwise when the car is moving & a constant supply of fresh air is entering the intake your not gonna see a difference. The air isn't inside the intake any longer than it is your heads. So if heak soak is such a problem maybe people should complain about aluminum heads also. Cause under the same theory the air has to pass by hot intake ports on the heads too before entering the combustion chamber.
no, what I was saying is that if you are going to the single plane to gain n/a power over what a fast or the like will make, then by all means the alum is a good idea to go to. If you are just going to the alum wieland intake for strenth, it's not worth it because that intake heat soaks like a mother and I will guarintee that if you were to make 3 runs with no more then 10 min of cooldown with a car that has that intake on it, you would certainly see a bigger loss then if the same car were to have a composite intake on.
To be honest, what would proabably be the best would be a single plane like the edlebrick, but machined out of a big block of delrin, or even molded and then a small machining process to insure it will sit flat, etc.etc. Then you would have the benefit of the single plane design, and no heat soaking issues at all. Why noone has made one, or tried to make one yet I do not understand.
To be honest, what would proabably be the best would be a single plane like the edlebrick, but machined out of a big block of delrin, or even molded and then a small machining process to insure it will sit flat, etc.etc. Then you would have the benefit of the single plane design, and no heat soaking issues at all. Why noone has made one, or tried to make one yet I do not understand.
no, what I was saying is that if you are going to the single plane to gain n/a power over what a fast or the like will make, then by all means the alum is a good idea to go to. If you are just going to the alum wieland intake for strenth, it's not worth it because that intake heat soaks like a mother and I will guarintee that if you were to make 3 runs with no more then 10 min of cooldown with a car that has that intake on it, you would certainly see a bigger loss then if the same car were to have a composite intake on.
You can do that... but don't let any water run under the intake, it will screw up teh knock sensors.
On a normal race day if you race say in index class or whatever you probably have an hour between runs, so there is time for the icebag trick if you so choose, but a composite intake, won't need it.
On a normal race day if you race say in index class or whatever you probably have an hour between runs, so there is time for the icebag trick if you so choose, but a composite intake, won't need it.
from what I have seen the burst panels don't do any good, because they don't pop easily enough/fast enough.... according to people that have had a backfire with them in place.
Bottom line, don't try to spray big shots(anything over 150) with anything other then a DP, and you will probably be fine.
Bottom line, don't try to spray big shots(anything over 150) with anything other then a DP, and you will probably be fine.
Thread Starter
Staging Lane
iTrader: (1)
Joined: Sep 2007
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From: Moody AFB Valdosta GA
Sweet, thats a lot of good feedback. i'll probably be stickin with the al intake. But if the weiand is *****, who should i stick with?? and what will be the easiest to switch over to direct port w/ later on down the road?
This is the one you would want to use
The book "Dyno-Proven GM LS1, LS2, LS6, LS7 Performance Parts"
tests all the intakes weiand, bbk, and fast etc. and the best performer of them all is the bbk ssI.
And incase of backfire this one want break
The book "Dyno-Proven GM LS1, LS2, LS6, LS7 Performance Parts"
tests all the intakes weiand, bbk, and fast etc. and the best performer of them all is the bbk ssI.
And incase of backfire this one want break
Last edited by Rubberduck; Nov 1, 2007 at 05:16 AM.
