I'm having a problem with the noid not opening throughout hole time it should be activated. I sent it back to NX already and they did something to it but it still doesn't work properly. Any ideas?????

 

fuel or nitrous? Have you just tested it with bare wires and 12v and a good ground? In other words NOT in your wiring setup?

 

Nitrous solenoid problem...
Here's the full story. We went to the dyno on two different days to get the nitrous dialed in. First day and second day we had exactly the same problem. The nitrous would come on and than shutoff quickly or not come on at all. THe first day we noticed that tapping the can of the solenoid it would unfreeze and start opening. Called NX and they said that the solenoid was bad and to send it back to be replaced. Sent it back last week and just got it back, honestly looks like the same solenoid. The rep said that there was a problem with the oriface size.

We installed the solenoid that we just got back from NX. NX said that they had a problem with the first batch of solenoids. So we get to the dyno and on the first pull we see the exact same F**king think. Hits @ 3k and falls flat @ 3700. We tested it and it was not clicking open with a simple 14ga wire going from the battery to the nitrous solenoid. Took it apart and didn't see any debris, reassembled it. Now, It would click open and shut. Put the nitrous solenoid back on and made a pull, nitrous came in but than shut off very soon after, 3k-7k pull, it was on between 3k and 3800, shut off and the car ran pig rich pegging the wideband @ 9.8:1. I'm no solenoid expert but the carbon solenoids don't seem to like to be pulsed. The car has a Mini progressive with a short delay. Wiring is fine, just don't know whats up with the solenoids.

 

Reference numbers:
First nitrous solenoid had 15200L on the bottom
Second nitrous solenoid has 15200L on the bottom w/ a black mark through it
Fuel solenoid has .310 oriface engraved

Looks like we got a pro-power fuel and a Stage 6 Nitrous

 

Bypass the progressive? One of the reasons I don't like progressing, but hey that's just me.
Robert

 

We switched back to an old style solenoid and car was back to normal. Ended up going a high 9 second pass @ 139 on roughly a 225 kick @ 10:8:1 A/F. When you log your A/F on a full 1/4 mile pull what do you see in high gear?

 

I was seeing 10.5:1 and no drop in fuel pressure, and we like to keep it a little rich for added safety. On my 1st stage it's at 11.5:1 a/f, and then when 2nd comes on it goes richer. Now on the 408 we are going to get the a/f a little leaner and am still working on that tune, but it's currently about 10.8/11.0:1 area, as getting a full good pass with the 300rwhp shot and IRS has been elusive.
Robert

 

how high was your bottle pressure? if its too high they don't like to open much past 1050 psi. You may also have a bad coil. Try switching your old coil onto the new body and see if that helps.

 

Bottle pressure was 1025 when we went through the burnout box.

 

I'd bet it's a weak coil

 

Hmmm,
I aggree with what wa posted above. Call and talk to the rep you were dealing with at NX. See if they reused the same coil. They may have just switched your coil onto the new solenoid thinking it was there defective one and the coild was fine.
Dave

 

i just picked up a set of those same solenoids and this is the third thread i have read about them sticking or not working properly WTF!

 

We switched out the nitrous solenoid to an old style one and it works fine. First pass went 10.22 @ 137 with 225 shot and followed up with a 9.91 @ 139 after we took a pound of fuel pressure out. It was still rich on the 2nd pass, might be time for a two bottle setup.

 

If bottle pressure is too high or coil is weak they won't open. The coils are the same ones used on the old style noids.

Phil99vette, try sticking a steel washer on top of the coil, under or on top of the can and see if that helps.