Basic N20 Question
Get a fuel pressure gauge preferably electrical. A/F is optional but if you get one get it wideband. Otherwise it'll be just a fireworks display. Fuel Pressure safety switch (not sure if its included), and a WOT switch and filter seems to be included which is good.
Those are just a couple things that are pretty important. You can always upgrade your fuel injectors and pump just to stay on the safe side but isn't required.
On a 100 shot it isn't exactly imperative to get it tuned but it does help. I ran a 100 shot for about a year before I got it tuned.
Those are just a couple things that are pretty important. You can always upgrade your fuel injectors and pump just to stay on the safe side but isn't required.
On a 100 shot it isn't exactly imperative to get it tuned but it does help. I ran a 100 shot for about a year before I got it tuned.
Sorry to keep buggin but I'm clueless
Last edited by 6THZ28; Nov 8, 2007 at 11:57 PM.
Launching!
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 227
Likes: 0
the idea of spraying my car sounded great initially but the more i'm learning, the less appealing it is becoming. i asked a friend of mine, stock motor, and spray for some suggestions/advice. this is what he said:
lol well after you start spraying it you can kiss your strong running motor good bye. Mine slowy progessed down hill after i sprayed x number of times and pretty much detonated all the way through 4th gear pretty much every time i sprayed and that was with the TR-6 plugs. My advice would be a wet kit and a tune with race gas if you can get ahold of some that way its a little bit safer. But you gotta remember having nitrous on your motor is like a ticking time bomb. The motor will let go its just a matter of time. I know mine went lol just gotta make sure you can back up the funds for a new setup
The whole race gas thing.... i want to street my ride for the most part and run at the track every now and then so running race gas regularly just isn't feasible.. there are so many variables to consider when spraying. wish i had enough cash to subsidize it.. i'm thinking i need more $ for that "just in case ****" that might arise
lol well after you start spraying it you can kiss your strong running motor good bye. Mine slowy progessed down hill after i sprayed x number of times and pretty much detonated all the way through 4th gear pretty much every time i sprayed and that was with the TR-6 plugs. My advice would be a wet kit and a tune with race gas if you can get ahold of some that way its a little bit safer. But you gotta remember having nitrous on your motor is like a ticking time bomb. The motor will let go its just a matter of time. I know mine went lol just gotta make sure you can back up the funds for a new setup
The whole race gas thing.... i want to street my ride for the most part and run at the track every now and then so running race gas regularly just isn't feasible.. there are so many variables to consider when spraying. wish i had enough cash to subsidize it.. i'm thinking i need more $ for that "just in case ****" that might arise
My god every time I hear a story about nitrous that starts out.......my friend said........I know it is going to be bad and full of misinformation.
Your friend is WRONG, I have been spraying 150 shot for over two years, my friend in Virginia has been spraying 125 shot for almost 4 years. Our motors still run strong and neither one of us have ever used race gas. Maybe the problem with your friends set up is he didn't know what he was doing, if you install it correctly, use the safety devices and do all the changes......plugs, timing if needed and such you will be fine.
Launching!
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 227
Likes: 0
The fuel pressure gauge does exactly what it says, it tells you your fuel pressure so you can keep an eye on it if it gets to low. The FPSS comes off your fuel rail and when your fuel pressure goes to low it shuts off your system to stop damage.
the idea of spraying my car sounded great initially but the more i'm learning, the less appealing it is becoming. i asked a friend of mine, stock motor, and spray for some suggestions/advice. this is what he said:
lol well after you start spraying it you can kiss your strong running motor good bye. Mine slowy progessed down hill after i sprayed x number of times and pretty much detonated all the way through 4th gear pretty much every time i sprayed and that was with the TR-6 plugs. My advice would be a wet kit and a tune with race gas if you can get ahold of some that way its a little bit safer. But you gotta remember having nitrous on your motor is like a ticking time bomb. The motor will let go its just a matter of time. I know mine went lol just gotta make sure you can back up the funds for a new setup
The whole race gas thing.... i want to street my ride for the most part and run at the track every now and then so running race gas regularly just isn't feasible.. there are so many variables to consider when spraying. wish i had enough cash to subsidize it.. i'm thinking i need more $ for that "just in case ****" that might arise
lol well after you start spraying it you can kiss your strong running motor good bye. Mine slowy progessed down hill after i sprayed x number of times and pretty much detonated all the way through 4th gear pretty much every time i sprayed and that was with the TR-6 plugs. My advice would be a wet kit and a tune with race gas if you can get ahold of some that way its a little bit safer. But you gotta remember having nitrous on your motor is like a ticking time bomb. The motor will let go its just a matter of time. I know mine went lol just gotta make sure you can back up the funds for a new setup
The whole race gas thing.... i want to street my ride for the most part and run at the track every now and then so running race gas regularly just isn't feasible.. there are so many variables to consider when spraying. wish i had enough cash to subsidize it.. i'm thinking i need more $ for that "just in case ****" that might arise
I know plenty who have beat the living **** out of their motor with spray, but it was done RIGHT. There was no detonation through 4th, the plugs were gapped correctly, and the tune was correct. It is all in the set up. You do not need RACE GAS for christs sake lol...
Just throw a decent wet/dry kit on there...have an EXPERIENCED tuner tune the PCM, and let 'er RIP!
PS- if you are worried about money, and "just in case" stuff, perhaps you should not mod any further. I am just being honest. Many people want this and that, but at the end of the day the funds always become the determining factor. Look if you want RELIABLE, get a Honda. If you want your motor to last for a decade but make sick power, set aside $1500 and get a cam, springs, purshrods and a tune and you're good to go. Stay away from N20 if you are worried.
Get a fuel pressure gauge preferably electrical. A/F is optional but if you get one get it wideband. Otherwise it'll be just a fireworks display. Fuel Pressure safety switch (not sure if its included), and a WOT switch and filter seems to be included which is good.
Those are just a couple things that are pretty important. You can always upgrade your fuel injectors and pump just to stay on the safe side but isn't required.
On a 100 shot it isn't exactly imperative to get it tuned but it does help. I ran a 100 shot for about a year before I got it tuned.
Those are just a couple things that are pretty important. You can always upgrade your fuel injectors and pump just to stay on the safe side but isn't required.
On a 100 shot it isn't exactly imperative to get it tuned but it does help. I ran a 100 shot for about a year before I got it tuned.
If it were me, and I cared, I would get a tune. Why spend all the time and money an not tune the PCM to handle the N20? Not tuning could = engine in a bucket...seriously.
Get a smater friend and a better tuner...
I know plenty who have beat the living **** out of their motor with spray, but it was done RIGHT. There was no detonation through 4th, the plugs were gapped correctly, and the tune was correct. It is all in the set up. You do not need RACE GAS for christs sake lol...
Just throw a decent wet/dry kit on there...have an EXPERIENCED tuner tune the PCM, and let 'er RIP!
PS- if you are worried about money, and "just in case" stuff, perhaps you should not mod any further. I am just being honest. Many people want this and that, but at the end of the day the funds always become the determining factor. Look if you want RELIABLE, get a Honda. If you want your motor to last for a decade but make sick power, set aside $1500 and get a cam, springs, purshrods and a tune and you're good to go. Stay away from N20 if you are worried.
I know plenty who have beat the living **** out of their motor with spray, but it was done RIGHT. There was no detonation through 4th, the plugs were gapped correctly, and the tune was correct. It is all in the set up. You do not need RACE GAS for christs sake lol...
Just throw a decent wet/dry kit on there...have an EXPERIENCED tuner tune the PCM, and let 'er RIP!
PS- if you are worried about money, and "just in case" stuff, perhaps you should not mod any further. I am just being honest. Many people want this and that, but at the end of the day the funds always become the determining factor. Look if you want RELIABLE, get a Honda. If you want your motor to last for a decade but make sick power, set aside $1500 and get a cam, springs, purshrods and a tune and you're good to go. Stay away from N20 if you are worried.
Last edited by 6THZ28; Nov 9, 2007 at 10:42 AM.
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From: Tomball/Nacogdoches TX
Agreed, but in stock form a 100 dry shot is about the highest you can go without pulling timing. My car is now dynotuned at 24 degrees but it was still operating at 80% on stock injectors. It now has 42#
Call Thunder Racing and buy a Timming Tuner. This device allows you to set a time delay on N2O activation. {allows you to launch the car on motor for traction} It also has timing retard function for when you spray the car. It also has a high rpm limit so you don't hit the rev limiter on the bottle.{this is a bad thing}. I had mine for 5 years it works great. These cars on a 100 shot run great.
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Verdad Gallardo Call Thunder Racing and buy a Timming Tuner. This device allows you to set a time delay on N2O activation. {allows you to launch the car on motor for traction} It also has timing retard function for when you spray the car. It also has a high rpm limit so you don't hit the rev limiter on the bottle.{this is a bad thing}. I had mine for 5 years it works great. These cars on a 100 shot run great.
Call Thunder Racing and buy a Timming Tuner. This device allows you to set a time delay on N2O activation. {allows you to launch the car on motor for traction} It also has timing retard function for when you spray the car. It also has a high rpm limit so you don't hit the rev limiter on the bottle.{this is a bad thing}. I had mine for 5 years it works great. These cars on a 100 shot run great.
You can use the window switch. It will also turn the N2O off at the high limit. With the timing tuner you can do it all with one box. It's always a good idea to take some timing out when spraying 100HP or larger shot espcially when its summer time.
hey my kit 
get a dynotune this >>> http://www.dynotunenitrous.com/store...?idproduct=194
i like it cuss it's a microswitch a window switch and has gear lock out. meaning you set where you want to spray (3k and up) and will shut off where you want (5250 you dont want to spray threw shifts) the gear lock out will let you spray in 2,3 gear and lock out first gear so that you can get traction in first gear.
FPSS
http://www.dynotunenitrous.com/store...?idproduct=135
and i sprayed a 100 shot for a while while i was on the stock timing, it was fine for me until i jumped to the 150 shot
.... just to let you know what everyone knows already, TNT shots give you more than wht they advertise. my 150 shot was more like a 170
get a dynotune this >>> http://www.dynotunenitrous.com/store...?idproduct=194
i like it cuss it's a microswitch a window switch and has gear lock out. meaning you set where you want to spray (3k and up) and will shut off where you want (5250 you dont want to spray threw shifts) the gear lock out will let you spray in 2,3 gear and lock out first gear so that you can get traction in first gear.
FPSS
http://www.dynotunenitrous.com/store...?idproduct=135
and i sprayed a 100 shot for a while while i was on the stock timing, it was fine for me until i jumped to the 150 shot
.... just to let you know what everyone knows already, TNT shots give you more than wht they advertise. my 150 shot was more like a 170 
hey my kit
get a dynotune this >>> http://www.dynotunenitrous.com/store...?idproduct=194
i like it cuss it's a microswitch a window switch and has gear lock out. meaning you set where you want to spray (3k and up) and will shut off where you want (5250 you dont want to spray threw shifts) the gear lock out will let you spray in 2,3 gear and lock out first gear so that you can get traction in first gear.
FPSS
http://www.dynotunenitrous.com/store...?idproduct=135
and i sprayed a 100 shot for a while while i was on the stock timing, it was fine for me until i jumped to the 150 shot.... just to let you know what everyone knows already, TNT shots give you more than wht they advertise. my 150 shot was more like a 170
get a dynotune this >>> http://www.dynotunenitrous.com/store...?idproduct=194
i like it cuss it's a microswitch a window switch and has gear lock out. meaning you set where you want to spray (3k and up) and will shut off where you want (5250 you dont want to spray threw shifts) the gear lock out will let you spray in 2,3 gear and lock out first gear so that you can get traction in first gear.
FPSS
http://www.dynotunenitrous.com/store...?idproduct=135
and i sprayed a 100 shot for a while while i was on the stock timing, it was fine for me until i jumped to the 150 shot
.... just to let you know what everyone knows already, TNT shots give you more than wht they advertise. my 150 shot was more like a 170