What to spend $1500 on?
I have about $1500 to throw into the '01 WS.6 M6 LS6 block. I already have headers coming, check my sig. Things I have in mind are as follows: cam, nx, heads, full ls6 conversion, b&m ripper, eibach springs, tsp lid. I don't know what to get. I need some ideas fellas. I like the outside of the car looking stock, the sleeper look. The car needs some bigger ***** to get its reputation built. If I decide to cancel my warranty that will be about $1500 more I can spend. I drive about 200 highway miles every weekend plus about another 100 during the week.
Is the 1500 after the headers? IF so.... I would probably try to save up another 700 or so and get a 12-bolt..... being that you have a 6-speed. Then go with a lid, and a clutch set up.
Or you could go with a clutch set up and what is left out of the money you can spend on the ls6 intake and your choice of air lid/cold air or true ram air-like the volant or scc. I would also go with an SLP MAF and a ported TB.
If you would rather run nitrous...... get a NX universal EFI kit and get every option you can! (i.e. bottle heater, opener, purge, window box, and/or anything else you want). I would also change those TR55's for TR6's AND plan on getting a fuel pump!
Josh S.
Or you could go with a clutch set up and what is left out of the money you can spend on the ls6 intake and your choice of air lid/cold air or true ram air-like the volant or scc. I would also go with an SLP MAF and a ported TB.
If you would rather run nitrous...... get a NX universal EFI kit and get every option you can! (i.e. bottle heater, opener, purge, window box, and/or anything else you want). I would also change those TR55's for TR6's AND plan on getting a fuel pump!
Josh S.
If you want to go fast DO NOT install Eibach lowering springs. They kill your 60ft time.
If you go with the nitrous first, plan on burning you clutch up, and if you add sticky tires, forget the rearend. Also, I would run NGK TR6 plugs if you do plan on nitrous.
I say concentrate on the basics. Suspension and tires, then start adding go fast parts. Get some QA1 shocks and springs, a BMR or Spohn Torque Arm, and a good set of drag radials. I started with the power stuff first, and only managed to burn 4 clutches, and break the rearend gears. As soon as the car layed down an impressive ET, it broke soon after.
Build a good base of: suspension, tires, rearend, and a strong clutch. Everything else is gravy after that, and your car wont spend most of its time on jackstands.
Just my .02 cents.
If you go with the nitrous first, plan on burning you clutch up, and if you add sticky tires, forget the rearend. Also, I would run NGK TR6 plugs if you do plan on nitrous.
I say concentrate on the basics. Suspension and tires, then start adding go fast parts. Get some QA1 shocks and springs, a BMR or Spohn Torque Arm, and a good set of drag radials. I started with the power stuff first, and only managed to burn 4 clutches, and break the rearend gears. As soon as the car layed down an impressive ET, it broke soon after.
Build a good base of: suspension, tires, rearend, and a strong clutch. Everything else is gravy after that, and your car wont spend most of its time on jackstands.
Just my .02 cents.
If you ditch all the stero equipment , you would lose alot of weight, the car would be faster and then have 1500.00 in your pocket. Or how about selling all the stero stuff on Ebay and combine the 1500.00 with that and buy a procharger.
If you want to go fast DO NOT install Eibach lowering springs. They kill your 60ft time.
If you go with the nitrous first, plan on burning you clutch up, and if you add sticky tires, forget the rearend. Also, I would run NGK TR6 plugs if you do plan on nitrous.
I say concentrate on the basics. Suspension and tires, then start adding go fast parts. Get some QA1 shocks and springs, a BMR or Spohn Torque Arm, and a good set of drag radials. I started with the power stuff first, and only managed to burn 4 clutches, and break the rearend gears. As soon as the car layed down an impressive ET, it broke soon after.
Build a good base of: suspension, tires, rearend, and a strong clutch. Everything else is gravy after that, and your car wont spend most of its time on jackstands.
Just my .02 cents.
If you go with the nitrous first, plan on burning you clutch up, and if you add sticky tires, forget the rearend. Also, I would run NGK TR6 plugs if you do plan on nitrous.
I say concentrate on the basics. Suspension and tires, then start adding go fast parts. Get some QA1 shocks and springs, a BMR or Spohn Torque Arm, and a good set of drag radials. I started with the power stuff first, and only managed to burn 4 clutches, and break the rearend gears. As soon as the car layed down an impressive ET, it broke soon after.
Build a good base of: suspension, tires, rearend, and a strong clutch. Everything else is gravy after that, and your car wont spend most of its time on jackstands.
Just my .02 cents.
My opinion, get a clear picture of your finished car and work it from the cam up. Keep emissions in mind if your in a testing area. Design the parts to work together, lots of info on here for that.
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I pulled 1.7 60ft on nitto`s with E-lowering springs. I have no problems with them. I haven`t been yet with my E/T`s I will let you know after this friday!
1.7 sounds about right for Eibach lowering springs. Your losing 2 tenths I bet. Most guys are lucky to see a 1.9 or even a 2.0 with a 6 speed. Automatics arent as slow with lowering springs.
Facts are facts. QA1's have hit 1.30's on Fbodies with Hal front springs, and stock rear springs. My old Eibachs are for sale if anybody is interested to test my theory.
Facts are facts. QA1's have hit 1.30's on Fbodies with Hal front springs, and stock rear springs. My old Eibachs are for sale if anybody is interested to test my theory.
It effects it the way you want it to effect it. The QA1's are great for street/strip/and even autocross due to thier 12 adjustable settings. Super Firm=Auto Cross
Semi Loose=Street Racing
Loose/Soft=Wheel pulling drag launches
They are that versatile! Easy to click dial on the side of the shocks, like a radio **** and you can go from firm to loose easy. Excellent for tuning on diffrent tracks, and changing conditions.
If your going to run naturally aspirated for awhile, I would not put in the TR6's. That is a boost/nitrous plug and may not work so great on an NA car. Stick with your original plug choice unless you go with juice.
Semi Loose=Street Racing
Loose/Soft=Wheel pulling drag launches
They are that versatile! Easy to click dial on the side of the shocks, like a radio **** and you can go from firm to loose easy. Excellent for tuning on diffrent tracks, and changing conditions.
If your going to run naturally aspirated for awhile, I would not put in the TR6's. That is a boost/nitrous plug and may not work so great on an NA car. Stick with your original plug choice unless you go with juice.
2 Questions. First are the Hal Springs you guys are talking about the ones that come in everyone's kits for Qa1's that they're selling. I've been thinking of getting those with some other suspension pieces. Also what rearend ratio for an M6 with nitrous. I heard stick with 3.42s. Also I'm looking at an 8.8 rearend. what ratio's do they have and what do you guys think about them?
DO NOT waste your time on suspension ****... that is truely wasteing your money right now. You want to go fast and enjoy the car... so upgrade your clutch to the dual disk clutch (RAM, McLeod) and get a 12-bolt since that 10-bolt is not going to last with a nitrous car and sticky tires. After that, get your nitrous system (NX MAF system looks good and is a clean install). Have Fun!!!
Oh and the reason I say don't waste your time on the suspension crap right now is because I know many many cars still running their stock suspension and pulling 1.46 60 foot times... and I was one of them.
Oh and the reason I say don't waste your time on the suspension crap right now is because I know many many cars still running their stock suspension and pulling 1.46 60 foot times... and I was one of them.

