Ive had a ton of nitrous kits on almost every car ive owned, but ive never done a dry kit on a car because i never like the way they worked.

The ls1's automatically add fuel by spraying through the MAF sensor, i like the way this works.

People always say "dont spray more than a 100-150 dry". Well why?

Why not spray 200-250 dry if you have the fuel system for it??'

Id like to spray a 200 dry single fogger kit on my car. What is there to do other than plump the fogger into the air filter area and start spraying??? I have a chassis dyno /w wide band o2 so i can watch A/F with no problems. But what other things should be done?? I'll be running 100 octane any time i use the big shot....

I always see posts about knowing what to do on dry kits can really save you ***, well im curious on what there is to know?

 

you must not see the post of people blowing there engines, 100 is all you should go dry, 150 maybee 175 wet, but guys have blown there engines on 200 shot, and thats wet!, do a search, I hope you've got lots of money to spend on a new motor if your going to try 200 dry, you can send some cash this way if you have lots to burn

 

Ok, lets go deeper on this.... I have done several customers cars with single fogger wet kits from 150-200 shot on the stock bottom ends. I tune them and set them up correctly and they go forever (so far, knock on wood)

I have one buddies car that makes 550 rwhp on a 250 shot (200 rwhp) that has been through 100's of passes on countless bottles for years now running in the mid 10's @ 130+ mph....

[b]So heres my question. Fuel distribution on a dry kit is almost to the direct port level. Every single cylinder gets the correct amount of extra fuel. There can be no distribution problems. And with a dry kit you spray the nitrous even farther away from the throttle body, so it has more time to evenly mix with air.

Soooo... With my forged bottom end, and my own tuning. I see no reason why i cant stick to a 200-300 shot for a long time. But with the superior fuel distribution of a dry kit, id like to run a dual stage 100/150hp kit. The maf should pick up all the nitrous and add fuel according correct??

I will run 42# injectors, walbro 340, Put a resistor in the IAT to pull a little timing out, and set the car up on the wideband o2 dyno....

Any thoughts?

 

If your pump and injectors are up to the task you should have no problems with a 200 shot. Just make sure the MAF is calibrated correctly and tune with your wide band and you'll be fine.

Jeffrey

 

I have been spraying a 175 shot all year. I had a little pulley mishap this last weekend but I should have it fixed within the week. As soon as it is I am throwing in the 200 pill and going for it. The important thing is to start small (75-100 shot)and monitor things with ATAP. Then continually get bigger until you reach a happy median. I have a stock rotating assembly and your typical H/C setup with all the bolt ons and Raging Motorsports tuning. No nitrous related problems yet! Ask Mark at Raging, he has seen my car run and I'm sure would vouch that it is feasable to spray more than what is said on a dry shot.

 

any other little things that need to be addressed on spraying a dry shot??? any changes?

So as i keep going up in dry shot, the maf will automatically keep adding fuel correct?? no other changes.

 

That is correct to an extent. The MAF can only adjust so far. I would say anything bigger than a 175 you will probably need to run a MAFT. I would still make sure that you have a good tune in it and be sure to run a FPSS.

 

Yup, 200 is cool. I think I've seen about 5 or 6 guys running 200 dry thoughout the couple sites I visit. If your injectors and pump can supply the needed fuel for the extra HP then do it to it. You got a dyno and w/b so you know how to watch and tune it. Like said before, the farther you get it away from the MAF or intake the better it will mix. I think over 200 dry the N20 has a harder time mixing so you get those rich/lean cylenders like a big wet kit but not nearly as bad, I HAVE NOT SEEN THIS PRBLM MYSELF so dont hold me too it. If you ever happen to run 200 - 300 dry on any of your dyno runs and can watch the egt's per cylinder PLEASE let us know what happens at these levels. I,m shure there are lots who want to know.

 

take out the screen. I remember a guy had a screen'd LS6 maf and was spraying 200+ and froze the screen almost solid (no holes). The MAF will max out eventually, so tuning may be a good suggestion...a good shop can take care of you. The maf will adjust just fine...as long as it doesnt max out (i think 58lbs/min is max?)

 

Lost my engine with a 135 dry shot. Thought it was a head gasket at first but I just found metal chunks in the LS6 intake! Looks like pieces of a piston to me. Not sure how they got up there.

Was running a Walbro in-tank pump on the stock 02 28lb injectors with stock PCM. Its a NOS dry kit with a single nozzle in the lid. Had a window switch (3-6k), and a fpss. My wide band o2 and fuel pressure gauge looked okay at the end of the track. Thought I'd be okay with that shot at 5800 feet but I assumed wrong. 125 shot was working fine. Made 12 runs before at 125 before I upped the shot to 135. The only thing I can think of is my stock timing may have been too much. Should of installed a timing tuner.

 

C4vetteLS1

I think the problem is the stock fuel system can't handle much more than a 100-125 dry shot without having to upgrade the fuel pump or injectors.

Spray 1000shot if you so please, I think the points being made is just have the fuel system and timing to support it thats all.

 

My MAF DID NOT adjust correctly by itself on even a 100 shot dry. A had to buy a MAFT to compensate. I guess it's hit or miss. Good luck!

Jeffrey

 

C4Vette, I've just starting working on the same thing you're looking to do - IMO:

You should be able to run the same dry as with any wet shot - as long as you take care of a couple of things:
-Fuel system upgrades (pump and injectors)
-Programming (power enrichment and timing)
-Make sure your maf doesn't run out of frequency
-Monitor your runs with EFiLive or something similar

The advantages to dry IMO are:
-Easier tuning. I run N/A is bracket racing and don't like having to swap out programs for juice runs. With a dry kit, I can run full timing at the lower cyl fill numbers but when I'm on the juice (the maf reads it so it sees higher cyl fil numbers) I run pulled back timing. With LS-1 Edit, I have one file that has tuning set NA below .8 gms per cyl and above that (which is where my juice runs are) I pull back my timing
-I have never messed with my MAF curve (recaled LS6) so on every run I monitor, I can see just how much juice I'm dumping.

Mark