Any problems running 200 dry shots?
The ls1's automatically add fuel by spraying through the MAF sensor, i like the way this works.
People always say "dont spray more than a 100-150 dry". Well why?
Why not spray 200-250 dry if you have the fuel system for it??'
Id like to spray a 200 dry single fogger kit on my car. What is there to do other than plump the fogger into the air filter area and start spraying??? I have a chassis dyno /w wide band o2 so i can watch A/F with no problems. But what other things should be done?? I'll be running 100 octane any time i use the big shot....
I always see posts about knowing what to do on dry kits can really save you ***, well im curious on what there is to know?
I have one buddies car that makes 550 rwhp on a 250 shot (200 rwhp) that has been through 100's of passes on countless bottles for years now running in the mid 10's @ 130+ mph....
[b]So heres my question. Fuel distribution on a dry kit is almost to the direct port level. Every single cylinder gets the correct amount of extra fuel. There can be no distribution problems. And with a dry kit you spray the nitrous even farther away from the throttle body, so it has more time to evenly mix with air.
Soooo... With my forged bottom end, and my own tuning. I see no reason why i cant stick to a 200-300 shot for a long time. But with the superior fuel distribution of a dry kit, id like to run a dual stage 100/150hp kit. The maf should pick up all the nitrous and add fuel according correct??
I will run 42# injectors, walbro 340, Put a resistor in the IAT to pull a little timing out, and set the car up on the wideband o2 dyno....
Any thoughts?
Jeffrey
So as i keep going up in dry shot, the maf will automatically keep adding fuel correct?? no other changes.
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Was running a Walbro in-tank pump on the stock 02 28lb injectors with stock PCM. Its a NOS dry kit with a single nozzle in the lid. Had a window switch (3-6k), and a fpss. My wide band o2 and fuel pressure gauge looked okay at the end of the track. Thought I'd be okay with that shot at 5800 feet but I assumed wrong. 125 shot was working fine. Made 12 runs before at 125 before I upped the shot to 135. The only thing I can think of is my stock timing may have been too much. Should of installed a timing tuner.
I think the problem is the stock fuel system can't handle much more than a 100-125 dry shot without having to upgrade the fuel pump or injectors.
Spray 1000shot if you so please, I think the points being made is just have the fuel system and timing to support it thats all.
Jeffrey
You should be able to run the same dry as with any wet shot - as long as you take care of a couple of things:
-Fuel system upgrades (pump and injectors)
-Programming (power enrichment and timing)
-Make sure your maf doesn't run out of frequency
-Monitor your runs with EFiLive or something similar
The advantages to dry IMO are:
-Easier tuning. I run N/A is bracket racing and don't like having to swap out programs for juice runs. With a dry kit, I can run full timing at the lower cyl fill numbers but when I'm on the juice (the maf reads it so it sees higher cyl fil numbers) I run pulled back timing. With LS-1 Edit, I have one file that has tuning set NA below .8 gms per cyl and above that (which is where my juice runs are) I pull back my timing
-I have never messed with my MAF curve (recaled LS6) so on every run I monitor, I can see just how much juice I'm dumping.
Mark


