Is it realistic?
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From: St. Augustine, FL
Is it realistic? Just looking for information, cause my car isn't dead yet, but I'm likely going to try to kill the engine in about 10 months.
Ok, after enough random troubles with my car, and thankfully my wife understands enough about engines from my constant babbling, my wife has agreed that if one more thing happens that costs more than $250 for me to fix, not upgrade, just fix, then I get to take out a loan equivalent to 75% of a new LS powered car to completely overhaul my car, or a new LS powered car. I'm thinking the option of 75% since I can do a lot better than a stock with that much money.
That being said, is it possible to build an LSX engine around 500rwhp for daily driving, and be able to flash a new tune on it when I go to the track, with a 400rwhp shot of n2o? Basically, I know it is possible to build 500rwhp for daily driving, but can you still be able to put that much n2o through it on a new tune or should I be thinking more in the range of a 250rwhp shot of juice?
Ok, after enough random troubles with my car, and thankfully my wife understands enough about engines from my constant babbling, my wife has agreed that if one more thing happens that costs more than $250 for me to fix, not upgrade, just fix, then I get to take out a loan equivalent to 75% of a new LS powered car to completely overhaul my car, or a new LS powered car. I'm thinking the option of 75% since I can do a lot better than a stock with that much money.
That being said, is it possible to build an LSX engine around 500rwhp for daily driving, and be able to flash a new tune on it when I go to the track, with a 400rwhp shot of n2o? Basically, I know it is possible to build 500rwhp for daily driving, but can you still be able to put that much n2o through it on a new tune or should I be thinking more in the range of a 250rwhp shot of juice?
Just looking for information, cause my car isn't dead yet, but I'm likely going to try to kill the engine in about 10 months.
Ok, after enough random troubles with my car, and thankfully my wife understands enough about engines from my constant babbling, my wife has agreed that if one more thing happens that costs more than $250 for me to fix, not upgrade, just fix, then I get to take out a loan equivalent to 75% of a new LS powered car to completely overhaul my car, or a new LS powered car. I'm thinking the option of 75% since I can do a lot better than a stock with that much money.
That being said, is it possible to build an LSX engine around 500rwhp for daily driving, and be able to flash a new tune on it when I go to the track, with a 400rwhp shot of n2o? Basically, I know it is possible to build 500rwhp for daily driving, but can you still be able to put that much n2o through it on a new tune or should I be thinking more in the range of a 250rwhp shot of juice?
Ok, after enough random troubles with my car, and thankfully my wife understands enough about engines from my constant babbling, my wife has agreed that if one more thing happens that costs more than $250 for me to fix, not upgrade, just fix, then I get to take out a loan equivalent to 75% of a new LS powered car to completely overhaul my car, or a new LS powered car. I'm thinking the option of 75% since I can do a lot better than a stock with that much money.
That being said, is it possible to build an LSX engine around 500rwhp for daily driving, and be able to flash a new tune on it when I go to the track, with a 400rwhp shot of n2o? Basically, I know it is possible to build 500rwhp for daily driving, but can you still be able to put that much n2o through it on a new tune or should I be thinking more in the range of a 250rwhp shot of juice?
im a little confused on exactly how much money you are saying you might end up with. even building a 500 rwhp NA car will cost a good deal of money. i think you might want to start in the 200-250 range. to build something that is capable of taking a 400 hit would cost a great deal of money. You also need to account all the suspension upgrades you would need to actually put that power to the ground. basically let us know why kind of money you are talking about and we can point you in a better direction
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From: St. Augustine, FL
Around $20-25K to dump into this car. Basically, my wife wants me to build whatever will satisfy me on this car or else get a new car and not be allowed to do anything for 3-4 years.
Edit: I used nitrous on my last car (150 shot on a v6 85 camaro) and have researched it thoroughly, just haven't done any research on really large shots. I'm thinking a progressive direct port on a FAST intake setup. The wife wants me to get it planned out so that we can minimize unexpected costs as much as possible and also build the engine once. I'll be starting out with smaller shots, but I want to build it to handle a heck of a lot if it's possible to still make a huge shot engine behave decently while NA on the street.
Edit: I used nitrous on my last car (150 shot on a v6 85 camaro) and have researched it thoroughly, just haven't done any research on really large shots. I'm thinking a progressive direct port on a FAST intake setup. The wife wants me to get it planned out so that we can minimize unexpected costs as much as possible and also build the engine once. I'll be starting out with smaller shots, but I want to build it to handle a heck of a lot if it's possible to still make a huge shot engine behave decently while NA on the street.
Last edited by RedTtop6spd; Dec 17, 2007 at 06:21 PM. Reason: more info
Right off the bat i would invest in the suspension. im assuming your goal is to get down the 1320 as quickly as possible. dana 60, torque arm etc. i would even consider doing a tubular K member and tubular upper and lower control arms. obviously your going to want to upgrade wheels and tires as well. with the kind of power you might be putting down i would also consider putting at least a 6 point rollbar if not a cage.
read through the internal engine section to figure out what kind of engine combo you want to go with. there are lots of vendors on this site that offer very well built motors. You'll have to figure out what kind of shot you want to run in order to build a nitrous specific motor.
when it comes down to the actual nitrous system you definitly want to go with a direct port setup. maybe with a ported fast or sheet metal intake. if you have money left over you want to invest in a NANO setup to keep your bottle pressure up.
Around $20-25K to dump into this car. Basically, my wife wants me to build whatever will satisfy me on this car or else get a new car and not be allowed to do anything for 3-4 years.
Edit: I used nitrous on my last car (150 shot on a v6 85 camaro) and have researched it thoroughly, just haven't done any research on really large shots. I'm thinking a progressive direct port on a FAST intake setup. The wife wants me to get it planned out so that we can minimize unexpected costs as much as possible and also build the engine once. I'll be starting out with smaller shots, but I want to build it to handle a heck of a lot if it's possible to still make a huge shot engine behave decently while NA on the street.
Edit: I used nitrous on my last car (150 shot on a v6 85 camaro) and have researched it thoroughly, just haven't done any research on really large shots. I'm thinking a progressive direct port on a FAST intake setup. The wife wants me to get it planned out so that we can minimize unexpected costs as much as possible and also build the engine once. I'll be starting out with smaller shots, but I want to build it to handle a heck of a lot if it's possible to still make a huge shot engine behave decently while NA on the street.
2yrs old with 21k for 26k. If your talking about a lsx powered vette than ya u're budget might be more realistic....
To put a 400 shot on a car takes alot more than just thinking about doing it. First you need a car built to to take the power and deliver it to the ground. Basicaly plan on changing everything but the body. Now assuming you have a motor that is built to take this large of a shot. You need to have the ability to read spark plugs,tune the car and understand how to listen to the motor when its talking to you. This is all stuff that comes with time. Work yourself up gradually. Start with a smaller size shot. Even a 200 or 300 shot makes a huge difference. When you get ready to hit it with 400 make sure you are ready o replace what ever breaks because hitting a car with a 400 shot is not as easy as it sounds. Read some of the guys post here on the board suxh as Noyzee,Next and others that have went down that road. You will see that they all learned from breaking things.
Last but not least. If a car is built to take the abuse of a 400 shot odds are its not going to be very fun to drive on the street. Not someting you want for a everyday driver.
Check with the suspension experts to set the chassis up. Then check with the motor experts on what motor they suggest for taking this abuse and not lifting the heads and staying together. Then check with the tranny experts. Odds are you are going to want to go to an automatic like a Glide, or Turbo 400. And when the car is built to take it. I am your Man for setting up the nitrous system. We are known for having our products on cars that make power!
Dave
Last but not least. If a car is built to take the abuse of a 400 shot odds are its not going to be very fun to drive on the street. Not someting you want for a everyday driver.
Check with the suspension experts to set the chassis up. Then check with the motor experts on what motor they suggest for taking this abuse and not lifting the heads and staying together. Then check with the tranny experts. Odds are you are going to want to go to an automatic like a Glide, or Turbo 400. And when the car is built to take it. I am your Man for setting up the nitrous system. We are known for having our products on cars that make power!
Dave
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From: St. Augustine, FL
I'm referring to a $32K off the showroom floor brand new from the factory LS powered vehicle.
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Thread Starter
On The Tree
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From: St. Augustine, FL
To put a 400 shot on a car takes alot more than just thinking about doing it. First you need a car built to to take the power and deliver it to the ground. Basicaly plan on changing everything but the body. Now assuming you have a motor that is built to take this large of a shot. You need to have the ability to read spark plugs,tune the car and understand how to listen to the motor when its talking to you. This is all stuff that comes with time. Work yourself up gradually. Start with a smaller size shot. Even a 200 or 300 shot makes a huge difference. When you get ready to hit it with 400 make sure you are ready o replace what ever breaks because hitting a car with a 400 shot is not as easy as it sounds. Read some of the guys post here on the board suxh as Noyzee,Next and others that have went down that road. You will see that they all learned from breaking things.
Check with the suspension experts to set the chassis up. Then check with the motor experts on what motor they suggest for taking this abuse and not lifting the heads and staying together. Then check with the tranny experts. Odds are you are going to want to go to an automatic like a Glide, or Turbo 400.
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Verdad Gallardo There are a good amount of cars on the street making the HIGh HP levels. Its just having the car with the ability to bite the track and do use the full potential of the hP you have. Alot of the street guys just like to have bragging rights or the thrill of seeing it blaze the tires but still get up and move when they rip into it.
If you are looking for track times thats when everything changes. Your tune from street trim to Track passes will change. You will also want to run alot colder plug which is easier to foul. For a 400 shot you would end up pulling your timming from something like 28 degrees to 10 degrees. This gives you a fast ideal on what I am talking about just tune up wise.
Going back and forth is very doable. However driving on the street with a tune up ready to hit a 400 shot would be a pain and you would probley be fouling plugs from time to time.
Now something like a 200 and even a 300 shot and keeping it more streetable would be more realistic and I have set up many cars like this.
Thanks for the compliment on the dedicated. I have a lot of new ones I need to show off.
Dave
If you are looking for track times thats when everything changes. Your tune from street trim to Track passes will change. You will also want to run alot colder plug which is easier to foul. For a 400 shot you would end up pulling your timming from something like 28 degrees to 10 degrees. This gives you a fast ideal on what I am talking about just tune up wise.
Going back and forth is very doable. However driving on the street with a tune up ready to hit a 400 shot would be a pain and you would probley be fouling plugs from time to time.
Now something like a 200 and even a 300 shot and keeping it more streetable would be more realistic and I have set up many cars like this.
Thanks for the compliment on the dedicated. I have a lot of new ones I need to show off.
Dave
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From: St. Augustine, FL
Going back and forth is very doable. However driving on the street with a tune up ready to hit a 400 shot would be a pain and you would probley be fouling plugs from time to time.
Now something like a 200 and even a 300 shot and keeping it more streetable would be more realistic and I have set up many cars like this.
Thanks for the compliment on the dedicated. I have a lot of new ones I need to show off.
Dave
Now something like a 200 and even a 300 shot and keeping it more streetable would be more realistic and I have set up many cars like this.
Thanks for the compliment on the dedicated. I have a lot of new ones I need to show off.
Dave
Thanks! That's the info I was looking for. With that being said, would something like a 400-454cu.in. 475-500rwhp LSX engine set up to handle a 300 shot, but keeping it down to a 200 shot be realistic? Changing spark plugs is reasonable, and other than that, I'd like to keep it so that I could change the tires to slicks and skinnies at the track and not much else. I'm not looking for 8's, but I am after something that'll be a head turner at the track, not the dyno.
Hopefully in a year or there abouts I'll be talking to you about a nice custom direct port setup.
Yes sir, That is very doable. I have a buddy that has a nice NA build with a directport set up for 300 and its his daily driver. This car has been on the streets with the same setup for atleast 3 years maybe longer now. Just goes to show with great parts backed by people that know what they are doing its very doable.
When you are ready for that directport we will be here. EWe also do buisness with some of the best in the market. So if you need some suggestions on who to go to for chassis,motor,tranny etc shoot me a pm. Ill set you in the right direction.
Dave
When you are ready for that directport we will be here. EWe also do buisness with some of the best in the market. So if you need some suggestions on who to go to for chassis,motor,tranny etc shoot me a pm. Ill set you in the right direction.
Dave
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On The Tree
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From: St. Augustine, FL
California sucks for cars. I'm glad I'm registered in FL.Right now I'm thinking of the saying, there's no replacement for displacement, so I'm generally thinking lots of cubes. What size do you think would be good for a dual purpose engine? 408, 427, 454, bigger? I think I'm going to go read some old posts from when I was on deployment and try to answer the rest of my questions.
Yeah, but I need to get the car back to Florida where I own a house with a garage and all my tools are there. That's going to happen in about 9-10 months. California sucks for cars. I'm glad I'm registered in FL.
Right now I'm thinking of the saying, there's no replacement for displacement, so I'm generally thinking lots of cubes. What size do you think would be good for a dual purpose engine? 408, 427, 454, bigger? I think I'm going to go read some old posts from when I was on deployment and try to answer the rest of my questions.
California sucks for cars. I'm glad I'm registered in FL.Right now I'm thinking of the saying, there's no replacement for displacement, so I'm generally thinking lots of cubes. What size do you think would be good for a dual purpose engine? 408, 427, 454, bigger? I think I'm going to go read some old posts from when I was on deployment and try to answer the rest of my questions.
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On The Tree
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From: St. Augustine, FL
do some reading in the internal section. iron 408 is a good cost efficient path. other then that i would look at a 414 or 427. the very best way to figure out what you want and what will for you is by reading about this kind of stuff. you'll be much better off being an informed buyer rather then having a whole bunch of people tell you what you want
By the way, Mike, great solenoids. They worked flawlessly on the last setup I used.