C4VetteLS1

This is just one guys opinion, but he is a nitrous express tech)

I was talking to a tech at nitrous express today about doing a dual stage wet/dry kit and the guy straight said he wont recommend even a 50 shot dry to anyone..not even by itself!

I spent a while talking to him about it. and he explained that hes had numerous phone calls every month of customers who install dry 75-125 nitrous kits on thier car. Many have dyno tuned and a/f ratios are usually very safe and never a problem. All of these peoples cars run great for months or even a year or two with these kits on them. Then one day out of the blue, the person will blow a piston, head gasket or hurt something in the motor for no reason at all. And the reason is the computer doesnt compensate for the extra air coming in, for no answerable reason. The maf just doesnt add the fuel like it should suddenly....

Anyone have any info to share regarding the sudden failures of dry kits?

RyanJ

thats cause they sell wet kits.

NicD

iTrader: (7)

I have personally dyno'd 3 dry kit cars and each one has not been lower than a 13.5 A/F on a wideband. Not safe IMO but somehow their cars are surviving, for now.

383LQ4SS

iTrader: (33)

As said above...they sell wetkits. Good wetkits...but wetkits none the less. Thier direct competitor sells dry kits.

Why would someone who had a non NX dry kit installed on thier car, and blew the motor...call up NX?

Ive seen several wet kits cause failures of LS1s. I have not seen a dry failure. We are talking first hand experiance here...not what someone else has said. Both IMO are safe enough when you know what your doing.

But such a lopsided review is unwarranted IMO.

C4VetteLS1

very Understandable, I figured i would post what i read and get some opinions.....

So if most cars run slightly lean on dry kits. Whats the correct thing to do? Have a 2nd ls1edit program just for running nitrous where it puts in some fuel. Or have a IAT resistor or MAFT just for dry kits?

slow

iTrader: (7)

well, you call the other "dry" kit company, and they do not like the idea of flowing "fuel" through the LS1 intake.

The information will be biased, as they all have a preference.

The only company that i do not know their view is TNT, they sell both, both are good products with their advantages over eachother.

Personally i am a fan of wet, as all you really need to do is make sure you have enough fuel pressure, (and your noids work) and you will have a decent af for your run. They also seem to make more power, when it comes to area under the curve.

With the dry kits, there is always the chance of mismetering of the N20, for various reasons. But there is not the risk of intake backfires, ect. \

until the NXL direct port comes out, there really is no "good" solution to the general public, as most will not drill up their intakes, ect for a "direct port" setup.

Ryan.

cantdrv65

iTrader: (3)

I 've seen both type kits fail. Fuel Noids with the wet kits and usually an improper tune with a dry kit. I have also seen a dry kit backfire after frying the plugs. If you run a 13.5 A/F with N2O you are asking for trouble. I prefer wet because its easier, but the key to either is a proper tune.

snowSS

NOS sell's both wet kits and dry kits. But they do recomend dry over wet. No nitrous kit is 100% safe, but I see alot less problems with the dry kits then I do with wet kits. The biggest problem with dry kits is you are limited by injector size. Most people that have problems with dry kits usually either put too big of a jet in it. Or they don't understand that you need more fuel and they don't hook up the enrichment side of the kit. Wet kits have there place and there are certain cars that you can't put a dry kit on so it is either that or direct port. But there is always a chance of a backfire from a wet kit. When you get right down to it wet kits are easier to produce you only need one basic kit to fit a bunch of diffrent cars. So from a business stand point it doesn't make much sense to do dry kits unless you really feel that there is a possible problem with the wet kit design.

NickMapleT/A

According to the wideband A/F on the dyno, and the A/F guage in my car, I still run rich on the bottle. Anywhere from mid 11's to low 12's A/F. I'm also spraying it through the stock MAF. Maybe that has something to do with it.