nitrous issues
Have you thought about disconnecting one electrical item at a time until the issue is resolved. IE... start with the FPSS (as suggested above) then remove the window switch and manually arm/disarm, then remove the interface and see what happens next. What made you get the interface with your wet setup? Was it just simply for timing? Are you changing the shot size thru the interface to achieve the AFR you want? I know that's what they're designed for but the old reliable jet should net you the same results.
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yea using interface to pull timing and get the af better right now for a 100 shot i have the interface jetted at a 55 shot , dont even have a pill to go that low.
From my understanding, the interface does not adjust the actual size of the shot or am I wrong? Why not just set it for the actual jets that you're running? Do you have a wideband? If so, what were your readings when on the jug? Have you tried to run any of the built in diagnostics of the interface? Last edited by myfast70; Jan 27, 2008 at 08:18 PM.
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with the interface you put what size shot your running instead of changine out the fuel pills you can change it by adjusting a setting in the interface. I didnt have time on the dyno to change the pill out and adjusted it thise way. Dont currently have a wideband. Have to check to see if i threw a code to see if the itnerface is cutting the spray otu
I went to HSW's website and briefly read thru the instructions and found that there are three LED's used for troubleshooting and checking the unit for proper operation. I guess there are a few dip switches that you use and move to certain postitions to check. I know the interface will also throw codes to the PCM but I think the built in stuff is to verify things are hooked up correctly. Just a suggestion.
right now i have it at a 55 shot fuel on the 100 shot pill my fuel was below 10.0 so used the interface. On 75 my af was 10.5, on 85 it was like a 10.3-10.1. any easy way to check to make sure the window switch isnt cutting off? the fpss is bypassed brown wire goes directly to the relay
If that is correct...wont adding another 55 with the interface actually make you run more like 8 or 9 to 1 AF?
How did you check your AF initially?
It was my understanding that the interface could only ADD fuel from 5-300 or so hp. That would be added fuel?
So if you were 10 to 1 on your wet plate kit and added 55 or more fuel via the interface you must be off the scale rich??
But maybe I am just reading your post wrong? But if you are adding 55 HP worth of fuel via the interface on a kit that was running 10.0 to 1 you will be barely making it down the track.
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Wait a minute...maybe I am reading wrong...but you say that your plate kit run as is was at 10 to 1 AF? Are you saying that with the interface set at 0 added fuel...just running the correct fuel and nitrous pills in the plate kit you are at 10 to 1 AF?
If that is correct...wont adding another 55 with the interface actually make you run more like 8 or 9 to 1 AF?
How did you check your AF initially?
It was my understanding that the interface could only ADD fuel from 5-300 or so hp. That would be added fuel?
So if you were 10 to 1 on your wet plate kit and added 55 or more fuel via the interface you must be off the scale rich??
But maybe I am just reading your post wrong? But if you are adding 55 HP worth of fuel via the interface on a kit that was running 10.0 to 1 you will be barely making it down the track.
If that is correct...wont adding another 55 with the interface actually make you run more like 8 or 9 to 1 AF?
How did you check your AF initially?
It was my understanding that the interface could only ADD fuel from 5-300 or so hp. That would be added fuel?
So if you were 10 to 1 on your wet plate kit and added 55 or more fuel via the interface you must be off the scale rich??
But maybe I am just reading your post wrong? But if you are adding 55 HP worth of fuel via the interface on a kit that was running 10.0 to 1 you will be barely making it down the track.
My af was off the chart with the interface set on like it should have been, you put in the interface what shot you are running at the time it was a 100 shot and my af was off the chart below 10, so then i changed the interface to 85 and it came up on the graph above 10, then i changed it to 75 and it leaned it out a little more (10.5 across the board), then i moved it to 55 to get it in the low 11 a/f range. On the pull with fuel on a 75 it made 90rwhp 120rwtq, didnt pull it on the 55
I didnt think you could adjust fuel to run leaner via the interface...only add fuel?
You are running a wet kit correct? If so and you have the correct fuel jet what did you get for AF with the interface set at 0 or no fuel added. Why would you have to add 100...or even 55 hp of fuel via the interface if the kit had a fuel jet for 100 hp? I am not getting how you are set up here?
Anyways...did your pull on the dyno seem normal? Made power at the exact on/off points of the window switch? Can you post a graph?
The shock towers may not be the best place for a ground. You may want to test your connection to see if you have high resistance there using a multimeter and set it to ohms. If its high resistnace swap to an actual ground such as on the left or right side of the radiator supports or take some paint off under the shock towers to ensure a very good ground.
What are your plugs gapped at and what kind are they?
Bottle pressure during the runs?
You may want to hook up a test light so you can see that the noids are or arent getting power when it feels like it stops spraying. That will enable you to pin it down to the kit...or the car. if the light goes out as the power dies...its obviously with window switch, TPS, noids, grounds, interface, line blockage etc.
If the light stays on and power drops off it is something with the car such as too large a plug gap causing spark to blow out on a cylinder or two, issue with the car causing power drop off, SES, plug wire arcing under heavy load.
You are absolutely sure your bottle has juice right?
Gotta ask ya know
Last edited by 383LQ4SS; Jan 28, 2008 at 12:13 AM.
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Verdad Gallardo yes you can add fuel with the interface but you can also set it to "change the fuel pill" without actually taking the pill out, get what i'm saying? My af was off the chart with the interface set on like it should have been, you put in the interface what shot you are running at the time it was a 100 shot and my af was off the chart below 10, so then i changed the interface to 85 and it came up on the graph above 10, then i changed it to 75 and it leaned it out a little more (10.5 across the board), then i moved it to 55 to get it in the low 11 a/f range. On the pull with fuel on a 75 it made 90rwhp 120rwtq, didnt pull it on the 55
Why don't you try running the system without the interface hooked up and see what happens. I'm not blaming it on the Interface but if you are using it in a different manner/install than it was meant for could be causing you most of the problems that you're having. Is my thinking way off here 383LQ4SS? I thought you also mentioned in another thread that you had Nic D put a nitrous tune on the car? If so, there should really be no reason to pull additional timing. The Interface seems like overkill for your install. You need to make a dyno pull without the Interface and stock jetting for a 100 shot and then see what your AFR is. I bet it is where it needs to be or damn close. Don't take this personally, but it seems like an installation issue. You've had quite a few issues from the get go. Thread Starter
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interface is made for wet and dry system it shines more in a dry system but can be used for either. Nicd didnt put a nytrious tune on the car just pulled 2 degrees out of the existing tune. I only had one issue from the get go and that was the switch panel other then that havent had an issue at all until this.
yeah you can use the interface for wet or dry. I believe you can subtract fuel but only using the top end +/- add or subtract feature.
But for the shot size I belive you can only add fuel.
Hopefully the HSW guys will chime in here.
So what you MIGHT try is just to set the interface to no fuel added and run the correct fuel and nitrous jets the way a normal wet kit is run. of course at this point that would be nice to do on a dyno with a wideband.
You may simply be wayyy to rich and the nitrous surging a generally running like ***.
Atleast that would be something to explore.
But for the shot size I belive you can only add fuel.
Hopefully the HSW guys will chime in here.
So what you MIGHT try is just to set the interface to no fuel added and run the correct fuel and nitrous jets the way a normal wet kit is run. of course at this point that would be nice to do on a dyno with a wideband.
You may simply be wayyy to rich and the nitrous surging a generally running like ***.
Atleast that would be something to explore.
What I get from his post is this, Ruckus46Gt please let me know if this is correct or not.
Ruckus46Gt has the kit set up like a wet kit; with the correct fuel jet installed for the size shot he is running (100 shot). He then set the Interface for a 100 shot, so he was basically dumping in twice the amount of fuel needed for that 100 shot; hence the super rich A/F. Ruckus46Gt then started to under jet the Interface so he could lean it out to 10.8 A/F. From reading though the posts it looks like Ruckus46Gt never made a pull with just the wet kit (IE the Interface set to 0 for the jetting). Is that correct so far?
On the dyno the system was fine in the one gear, correct? At the track the system is activating once, but not again after that, correct?
Matt
Ruckus46Gt has the kit set up like a wet kit; with the correct fuel jet installed for the size shot he is running (100 shot). He then set the Interface for a 100 shot, so he was basically dumping in twice the amount of fuel needed for that 100 shot; hence the super rich A/F. Ruckus46Gt then started to under jet the Interface so he could lean it out to 10.8 A/F. From reading though the posts it looks like Ruckus46Gt never made a pull with just the wet kit (IE the Interface set to 0 for the jetting). Is that correct so far?
On the dyno the system was fine in the one gear, correct? At the track the system is activating once, but not again after that, correct?
Matt
I didnt think you could adjust fuel to run leaner via the interface...only add fuel?
You are running a wet kit correct? If so and you have the correct fuel jet what did you get for AF with the interface set at 0 or no fuel added. Why would you have to add 100...or even 55 hp of fuel via the interface if the kit had a fuel jet for 100 hp? I am not getting how you are set up here?
Anyways...did your pull on the dyno seem normal? Made power at the exact on/off points of the window switch? Can you post a graph?
The shock towers may not be the best place for a ground. You may want to test your connection to see if you have high resistance there using a multimeter and set it to ohms. If its high resistnace swap to an actual ground such as on the left or right side of the radiator supports or take some paint off under the shock towers to ensure a very good ground.
What are your plugs gapped at and what kind are they?
Bottle pressure during the runs?
You may want to hook up a test light so you can see that the noids are or arent getting power when it feels like it stops spraying. That will enable you to pin it down to the kit...or the car. if the light goes out as the power dies...its obviously with window switch, TPS, noids, grounds, interface, line blockage etc.
If the light stays on and power drops off it is something with the car such as too large a plug gap causing spark to blow out on a cylinder or two, issue with the car causing power drop off, SES, plug wire arcing under heavy load.
You are absolutely sure your bottle has juice right? Gotta ask ya know
You are running a wet kit correct? If so and you have the correct fuel jet what did you get for AF with the interface set at 0 or no fuel added. Why would you have to add 100...or even 55 hp of fuel via the interface if the kit had a fuel jet for 100 hp? I am not getting how you are set up here?
Anyways...did your pull on the dyno seem normal? Made power at the exact on/off points of the window switch? Can you post a graph?
The shock towers may not be the best place for a ground. You may want to test your connection to see if you have high resistance there using a multimeter and set it to ohms. If its high resistnace swap to an actual ground such as on the left or right side of the radiator supports or take some paint off under the shock towers to ensure a very good ground.
What are your plugs gapped at and what kind are they?
Bottle pressure during the runs?
You may want to hook up a test light so you can see that the noids are or arent getting power when it feels like it stops spraying. That will enable you to pin it down to the kit...or the car. if the light goes out as the power dies...its obviously with window switch, TPS, noids, grounds, interface, line blockage etc.
If the light stays on and power drops off it is something with the car such as too large a plug gap causing spark to blow out on a cylinder or two, issue with the car causing power drop off, SES, plug wire arcing under heavy load.
You are absolutely sure your bottle has juice right?
Gotta ask ya know Thread Starter
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From: Avondale, AZ
What I get from his post is this, Ruckus46Gt please let me know if this is correct or not.
Ruckus46Gt has the kit set up like a wet kit; with the correct fuel jet installed for the size shot he is running (100 shot). He then set the Interface for a 100 shot, so he was basically dumping in twice the amount of fuel needed for that 100 shot; hence the super rich A/F. Ruckus46Gt then started to under jet the Interface so he could lean it out to 10.8 A/F. From reading though the posts it looks like Ruckus46Gt never made a pull with just the wet kit (IE the Interface set to 0 for the jetting). Is that correct so far?
On the dyno the system was fine in the one gear, correct? At the track the system is activating once, but not again after that, correct?
Matt
Ruckus46Gt has the kit set up like a wet kit; with the correct fuel jet installed for the size shot he is running (100 shot). He then set the Interface for a 100 shot, so he was basically dumping in twice the amount of fuel needed for that 100 shot; hence the super rich A/F. Ruckus46Gt then started to under jet the Interface so he could lean it out to 10.8 A/F. From reading though the posts it looks like Ruckus46Gt never made a pull with just the wet kit (IE the Interface set to 0 for the jetting). Is that correct so far?
On the dyno the system was fine in the one gear, correct? At the track the system is activating once, but not again after that, correct?
Matt
Thats correct, thats only on a dry kit. If you jet your wet plate for a 100 shot and you find yourself lean, then you can up the interface to add addition fuel. On a wet kit you would have to under jet the plate to allow yourself A/F adjustments in either direction. This is the reason why you were pig rich on the dyno.
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Thats correct, thats only on a dry kit. If you jet your wet plate for a 100 shot and you find yourself lean, then you can up the interface to add addition fuel. On a wet kit you would have to under jet the plate to allow yourself A/F adjustments in either direction. This is the reason why you were pig rich on the dyno.
Really...it would be best if you went back to the dyno to do sme pulls with the interface set to 0 so you can see where your wet kit is actually going to start out at. There is a very good chance you will be able to run it as is with no help from the interface. And if you just need a little from the interface you will know. But dont stop making pulls until you are in the 11.5-11.9 range. Thats all you need for a 100 shot.
One other question...what plugs do you have and what gap? This is very important...especially if you are running very rich. You can blow out the spark very easy on a rich tune if your plugs arent gapped pretty tight....even on a 100 shot.
Anyways..i think youll get it squared away...just takes a little patience. you have alot of stuff you put on all at once. Its not uncommon to have to tweak things a bit. Good luck.
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