nitrous issues
What I get from his post is this, Ruckus46Gt please let me know if this is correct or not.
Ruckus46Gt has the kit set up like a wet kit; with the correct fuel jet installed for the size shot he is running (100 shot). He then set the Interface for a 100 shot, so he was basically dumping in twice the amount of fuel needed for that 100 shot; hence the super rich A/F. Ruckus46Gt then started to under jet the Interface so he could lean it out to 10.8 A/F. From reading though the posts it looks like Ruckus46Gt never made a pull with just the wet kit (IE the Interface set to 0 for the jetting). Is that correct so far?
On the dyno the system was fine in the one gear, correct? At the track the system is activating once, but not again after that, correct?
Matt
Ruckus46Gt has the kit set up like a wet kit; with the correct fuel jet installed for the size shot he is running (100 shot). He then set the Interface for a 100 shot, so he was basically dumping in twice the amount of fuel needed for that 100 shot; hence the super rich A/F. Ruckus46Gt then started to under jet the Interface so he could lean it out to 10.8 A/F. From reading though the posts it looks like Ruckus46Gt never made a pull with just the wet kit (IE the Interface set to 0 for the jetting). Is that correct so far?
On the dyno the system was fine in the one gear, correct? At the track the system is activating once, but not again after that, correct?
Matt
Last edited by myfast70; Jan 28, 2008 at 03:36 PM.
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so back to the dyno this week to see what it does with it set to 0. Lets say its a little to lean can i set the interface to like 20 instead of swapping jets out?
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cc call wasnt to bad, but back to the subject. HSW what exactly would the maf have to see to turn off the interface. Just wondering if a pig rich mixture would cause the interface to shut the nitrous off, or if maybe if it was so rich that it was killing me up top (only thing i see with that was it fine on the dyno not sure if in the long run of a full run if something else would change if that makes sense). Also if i'm a little leaner then i'd like when i go back to the dyno with the interface on zero can i say put it on 10 or 15 to get me where i'd like to be. Max i would like to be at with a 100 shot is 11.5-11.8
Personally I don't think your real issue is running rich, can you feel the system activate? And then not turn back on (assuming you are using the RPM window switch to turn the system off before the trans shifts)? It would have to detect something out of line with the MAF sig, 9 out of 10 times the car runs like crap (in limp mode). Does the car run like crap? Did you ever try to bypass your FPSS?
Okay, lets say with the Interface set to 0 for the jet that your N2O A/F is at 12.2, you can then start adding fuel via the Interface, so you can start with it set to 10 or 15 for the Jet size and take it from there.
Matt
Okay, lets say with the Interface set to 0 for the jet that your N2O A/F is at 12.2, you can then start adding fuel via the Interface, so you can start with it set to 10 or 15 for the Jet size and take it from there.
Matt
cc call wasnt to bad, but back to the subject. HSW what exactly would the maf have to see to turn off the interface. Just wondering if a pig rich mixture would cause the interface to shut the nitrous off, or if maybe if it was so rich that it was killing me up top (only thing i see with that was it fine on the dyno not sure if in the long run of a full run if something else would change if that makes sense). Also if i'm a little leaner then i'd like when i go back to the dyno with the interface on zero can i say put it on 10 or 15 to get me where i'd like to be. Max i would like to be at with a 100 shot is 11.5-11.8
If the interface were causing the car to go pig rich, it wouldn't hit in just one gear. . While his rich condition mat cause poor performance, it doesn't explain tthe intermittent problem.
Either way, Ruckus has got to start troubleshooting. Easiest things first. Did you make sure your WOT is fully engaging? Disconnect the Interface, pill it for a true 100 shot and let it rip. If it still doesn't work,reconnect the Interface, jumper the FPSS and hit it again. If that doesn't work, reconnect the FPSS, and bypass the Window switch. Just take it one part at a time.
Either way, Ruckus has got to start troubleshooting. Easiest things first. Did you make sure your WOT is fully engaging? Disconnect the Interface, pill it for a true 100 shot and let it rip. If it still doesn't work,reconnect the Interface, jumper the FPSS and hit it again. If that doesn't work, reconnect the FPSS, and bypass the Window switch. Just take it one part at a time.
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Personally I don't think your real issue is running rich, can you feel the system activate? And then not turn back on (assuming you are using the RPM window switch to turn the system off before the trans shifts)? It would have to detect something out of line with the MAF sig, 9 out of 10 times the car runs like crap (in limp mode). Does the car run like crap? Did you ever try to bypass your FPSS?
Okay, lets say with the Interface set to 0 for the jet that your N2O A/F is at 12.2, you can then start adding fuel via the Interface, so you can start with it set to 10 or 15 for the Jet size and take it from there.
Matt
Okay, lets say with the Interface set to 0 for the jet that your N2O A/F is at 12.2, you can then start adding fuel via the Interface, so you can start with it set to 10 or 15 for the Jet size and take it from there.
Matt
it depends on how rich he is. He sais his last run on the dyno was 10.8 to 1 and we dont know alot about how that was run. If he is still at 10.8 or maybe even lower running that rich can certainly cause symptoms that would appear like the car was shutting off and on...surging..and cause nearly no gain. But to be sure we would have to make some more runs with a wideband.
Whats your bottle pressure now? What was it during the dyno runs?
I posted several things to check in an above post. One of the best things you might do right now is to hook up a test light to you noids. Tape it to your windshield so you can see it going down the track. Run a wire from the nitrous noid connection to a seperate ground so that the light turns on when the noid is open. Then make a run and see if thte light turns off during the run. If it does your issue has nothing to do with the fuel settings on the interface or running too rich.
It will have to do with either the WOT switch, window switch, relay, grounds etc.
You may also want to relocate your grounds from the shock towers.....or atleast clean the paint under them to ensure a very good ground. Better yet...relocate all grounds to a factory ground.
good luck....youll get it.
Whats your bottle pressure now? What was it during the dyno runs?
I posted several things to check in an above post. One of the best things you might do right now is to hook up a test light to you noids. Tape it to your windshield so you can see it going down the track. Run a wire from the nitrous noid connection to a seperate ground so that the light turns on when the noid is open. Then make a run and see if thte light turns off during the run. If it does your issue has nothing to do with the fuel settings on the interface or running too rich.
It will have to do with either the WOT switch, window switch, relay, grounds etc.
You may also want to relocate your grounds from the shock towers.....or atleast clean the paint under them to ensure a very good ground. Better yet...relocate all grounds to a factory ground.
good luck....youll get it.
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Verdad Gallardo try the test light setup. That will divide your troubleshooting possibilities right in half. Any 12v lamp will do.
No light or light flickering = window switch, TPS, ground or electical issue with the kit, relay
light stays on steady= tune... to include being too rich, nitrous blockage in the lines or noids, plug or ignition issue, some other issue with the car or PCM itself.
thats the best way to go IMO right now.
If it just fades away I would say its likley in the tune.
Let me ask again...ARE YOU SURE YOU HAVE NITROUS IN THE BOTTLE?
LOL...i just have to ask. because if you are new to nitrous and are just hooking up the kit you can go through a TON of juice just testing. I cant tell you how many times guys see an issue only to find out they are out of nitrous and they believed it would last longer. Hell I have made that mistake myself.
Do you have a nitrous pressure gauge and heater? If so what are you pressures on these runs?
Please answer these questions as fully as you can. It will help us help you.
No light or light flickering = window switch, TPS, ground or electical issue with the kit, relay
light stays on steady= tune... to include being too rich, nitrous blockage in the lines or noids, plug or ignition issue, some other issue with the car or PCM itself.
thats the best way to go IMO right now.
If it just fades away I would say its likley in the tune.
Let me ask again...ARE YOU SURE YOU HAVE NITROUS IN THE BOTTLE?
LOL...i just have to ask. because if you are new to nitrous and are just hooking up the kit you can go through a TON of juice just testing. I cant tell you how many times guys see an issue only to find out they are out of nitrous and they believed it would last longer. Hell I have made that mistake myself.
Do you have a nitrous pressure gauge and heater? If so what are you pressures on these runs?
Please answer these questions as fully as you can. It will help us help you.
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yea just weighed the bottle have 4.5 lbs left in the bottle. Pressure on the runs were right a 900-950, and just went out and left the ground where it was pucked up the washer and grinded down past the paint under the shock tower (on both sides fuel ground is on the other side)
where should i wire this test light in?
where should i wire this test light in?
probably from the relay where you hook up your power out to your noids. You could probably just slide a stripped wire under the spade connector on the relay...then to the bulb...and from the bulb to ground. Basically so when the noids get power...the bulb gets power.
Eventually you may consider wiring this in full time and put a nice little LED in the cockpit somewhere. I have used the "noid indicator" on most of my past setups to let me know the status of the noids. Sure makes troubleshooting easier to know that the noids are or arent getting power.
Eventually you may consider wiring this in full time and put a nice little LED in the cockpit somewhere. I have used the "noid indicator" on most of my past setups to let me know the status of the noids. Sure makes troubleshooting easier to know that the noids are or arent getting power.
probably from the relay where you hook up your power out to your noids. You could probably just slide a stripped wire under the spade connector on the relay...then to the bulb...and from the bulb to ground. Basically so when the noids get power...the bulb gets power.
Eventually you may consider wiring this in full time and put a nice little LED in the cockpit somewhere. I have used the "noid indicator" on most of my past setups to let me know the status of the noids. Sure makes troubleshooting easier to know that the noids are or arent getting power.
Eventually you may consider wiring this in full time and put a nice little LED in the cockpit somewhere. I have used the "noid indicator" on most of my past setups to let me know the status of the noids. Sure makes troubleshooting easier to know that the noids are or arent getting power.
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going to the hardware store tomorrow going to pick up a 12v lamp probely lcd light if they have it and then tap into the relay wire to the noids might actually drill a hole and have the led sit there so i always know if i can find one that looks like the normal alarm lights that blink. I put the interface back to 0.... Hopefully this will fix the issue.
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