My nitrous/fuel system! Pics galore!
01-28-2008, 09:45 PM
#21
The regulator has a -6male x 3/8" quick connect on the bottom of it. It sends excess fuel (return) back to the tank through the stock feed line. I just had to screw the quick connect's -an end into the regulator, then pop it down on the stock line.
I removed the regulator from inside the tank, and put a new filter on. When it hits the stock Tee block (you can see it in the picture of the new filter/block), it can either go backwards through the filter and into the tank, or straight back to the tank via the stock "return leg". I made sure to use a new filter so it doesn't back wash any trash back into the tank.
If the stock little "return line" didn't exist, I'd probably put some stuff together to delete the filter as to not have any restrictions in the return line, but it has another path to vent to and it works perfect.
Did I mention I built the whole fuel system and didn't have one single solitary LEAK???? I was SHOCKED!
I removed the regulator from inside the tank, and put a new filter on. When it hits the stock Tee block (you can see it in the picture of the new filter/block), it can either go backwards through the filter and into the tank, or straight back to the tank via the stock "return leg". I made sure to use a new filter so it doesn't back wash any trash back into the tank.
If the stock little "return line" didn't exist, I'd probably put some stuff together to delete the filter as to not have any restrictions in the return line, but it has another path to vent to and it works perfect.
Did I mention I built the whole fuel system and didn't have one single solitary LEAK???? I was SHOCKED!
01-28-2008, 10:04 PM
#23
The regulator has a -6male x 3/8" quick connect on the bottom of it. It sends excess fuel (return) back to the tank through the stock feed line. I just had to screw the quick connect's -an end into the regulator, then pop it down on the stock line.
I removed the regulator from inside the tank, and put a new filter on. When it hits the stock Tee block (you can see it in the picture of the new filter/block), it can either go backwards through the filter and into the tank, or straight back to the tank via the stock "return leg". I made sure to use a new filter so it doesn't back wash any trash back into the tank.
If the stock little "return line" didn't exist, I'd probably put some stuff together to delete the filter as to not have any restrictions in the return line, but it has another path to vent to and it works perfect.
Did I mention I built the whole fuel system and didn't have one single solitary LEAK???? I was SHOCKED!
I removed the regulator from inside the tank, and put a new filter on. When it hits the stock Tee block (you can see it in the picture of the new filter/block), it can either go backwards through the filter and into the tank, or straight back to the tank via the stock "return leg". I made sure to use a new filter so it doesn't back wash any trash back into the tank.
If the stock little "return line" didn't exist, I'd probably put some stuff together to delete the filter as to not have any restrictions in the return line, but it has another path to vent to and it works perfect.
Did I mention I built the whole fuel system and didn't have one single solitary LEAK???? I was SHOCKED!
Well, trying to picture it in my head, but no luck, maybe too late in the evening..
Reason I was asking is when I ran my regulator, wich is post rail (between passenger rail and the tank) I could not adjust my fuel pressure at all. I had to run all new line from regulator to the tank. Then, i was able to adjust fuel pressure. Thats what aeromotive told me to do and it worked like a charm. They just said my return stock line was too small and causing a bottle neck.
01-28-2008, 10:21 PM
#24
Well, trying to picture it in my head, but no luck, maybe too late in the evening..
Reason I was asking is when I ran my regulator, wich is post rail (between passenger rail and the tank) I could not adjust my fuel pressure at all. I had to run all new line from regulator to the tank. Then, i was able to adjust fuel pressure. Thats what aeromotive told me to do and it worked like a charm. They just said my return stock line was too small and causing a bottle neck.
Reason I was asking is when I ran my regulator, wich is post rail (between passenger rail and the tank) I could not adjust my fuel pressure at all. I had to run all new line from regulator to the tank. Then, i was able to adjust fuel pressure. Thats what aeromotive told me to do and it worked like a charm. They just said my return stock line was too small and causing a bottle neck.
Did you remove your stock regulator? You were using a new FEED line right?
01-28-2008, 10:27 PM
#25
Stock feed line until you get to the quick connect up on the driver side rail. Then its all braided hose and nasty fuel rails, then regulator and back to the tank.
Here is the pump area. You can see the braided return line.
Here is under the hood.. You can see where I installed my regulator.. Is yours before the driver side fuel rail?
Sorry if I am stealing your thread... I might re-do mine later on so just gettin some ideas.
Last edited by waterbug1999; 01-28-2008 at 11:13 PM.
01-28-2008, 11:11 PM
#26
Really Clean Install. Well layed out..
Guys plese send over your info to this link so we can add you to our customers section.
http://www.nitrousoutlet.com/customerCars/help.asp
Thank you for all your support
Dave
Guys plese send over your info to this link so we can add you to our customers section.
http://www.nitrousoutlet.com/customerCars/help.asp
Thank you for all your support
Dave
01-29-2008, 11:42 PM
#31
Waterbug, it's impossible for the regulator to work after the rail unless you have some kind of return line. Not sure exactly how you had it setup before though. The stock return line goes heads back to the tank right after the stock filter.
Here's a picture of my setup now.....
Ha! I remember that! Didn't I tell you I had it overnighted from Japan?
Here's a picture of my setup now.....
01-30-2008, 01:18 AM
#33
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How much power are you making on the motor right now. It seems like we have pretty similar setups as far as the motor and fuel system goes and my 408 is running fine off the 1 walbro 255. The other Walbro is waiting for when i finally get around to my nitrous setup.
01-30-2008, 01:37 AM
#34
I have not put it on a dyno, but I estimate it to be around 550rwhp, but judging by your setup it may make more lol. When temps are 80* outside, my single Walbro was plenty, but it runs out as the temp drops outside. I started a thread in the fuel system asking about it, as i thought a single would support 600rwhp. I have checked everything I can think of, and it seems I may just be running out of fuel on one pump.
This kind of makes me happy though, means I'm making plenty of power.
When it's around 40* outside, I have to command 11.8:1 to run 13:1 with one pump on. If I click on the second pump, it runs dean on 11.8. It doesn't matter which pump it is, as I've tried them seperately, but one pump just isn't cutting it for me. I know my motor seems to like running fat. From 13:1 to 11.8:1 it feels like I pick up about 30-40rwhp. She rips all the way to the limiter and has gobs of tq when it's got plenty of fuel, feels like it's getting tired with only one pump.
I'm going to wire them up to both run all the time, or maybe put the second one on a window switch, not sure yet.
This kind of makes me happy though, means I'm making plenty of power.
When it's around 40* outside, I have to command 11.8:1 to run 13:1 with one pump on. If I click on the second pump, it runs dean on 11.8. It doesn't matter which pump it is, as I've tried them seperately, but one pump just isn't cutting it for me. I know my motor seems to like running fat. From 13:1 to 11.8:1 it feels like I pick up about 30-40rwhp. She rips all the way to the limiter and has gobs of tq when it's got plenty of fuel, feels like it's getting tired with only one pump.
I'm going to wire them up to both run all the time, or maybe put the second one on a window switch, not sure yet.
01-30-2008, 09:14 AM
#36
It works awesome. Warmed my bottle up from about 600psi to 1200psi in around 20-25minutes. I haven't adjusted the pressure sensor yet, but it went up to 1200 before I shut it off manually.
I left it on one day for about an hour with the car not running and it drained the battery hardcore. Had to hook jumper cables up to a running truck for 45 minutes to make it start again.
I left it on one day for about an hour with the car not running and it drained the battery hardcore. Had to hook jumper cables up to a running truck for 45 minutes to make it start again.
01-30-2008, 01:20 PM
#39
I just got a PM about it from another member.
Originally Posted by TheBlurLS1
I don't know if I have any pictures or not, but I can tell you where they're at.
The passenger side coils are on the frame rail bolted in the location where the vacuum canister used to be. One of the front swaybar mount holes is what I bolted one side of the bracket to, one big bolt holds it nice. I just removed the vacuum canister and swung it over a bit, zip-tieing it to whatever I could find.
The driver side coils are about where the AIR pump used to be, I believe they are bolted to the cruise control module's bolts. The wires run up through the hole beside forwardmost fuse panel.
I used the taylor universal wire kit and had PLENTY of wire. I also extended the coil pack harnesses at the large connectors, then wrapped them in wireloom, so they would reach all the way up to beside the manifold
All my pictures are on my desktop computer, and it's current prognosis is GRIM.
-Casey
The passenger side coils are on the frame rail bolted in the location where the vacuum canister used to be. One of the front swaybar mount holes is what I bolted one side of the bracket to, one big bolt holds it nice. I just removed the vacuum canister and swung it over a bit, zip-tieing it to whatever I could find.
The driver side coils are about where the AIR pump used to be, I believe they are bolted to the cruise control module's bolts. The wires run up through the hole beside forwardmost fuse panel.
I used the taylor universal wire kit and had PLENTY of wire. I also extended the coil pack harnesses at the large connectors, then wrapped them in wireloom, so they would reach all the way up to beside the manifold
All my pictures are on my desktop computer, and it's current prognosis is GRIM.
-Casey
01-30-2008, 05:11 PM
#40
I surely love it when someone thinks their system out and does some nice detail work, which you have. Congrats on a job well done. Did you see my offer in the other thread? With your good writing skills and attention to detail, I believe we can offer the end users some info/facts and how-to's, on often asked questions regarding the fuel systems on the lsx platform.
Robert
Robert