99.9% safe nitrous setup?
Thread Starter
Teching In
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 30
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From: Houston
99.9% safe nitrous setup? I'm debating whether or not to get nitrous on my LS2 C6. I plan to eventually go bigger cubed (made a thread about it already) and want SAFE power. I would hate for something to go wrong mechanically or electronically (or just me forgetting something was on) and having the car totalled due to a fire or other cause due to a nitrous set-up.
I saw the pictures of a members c6 in their driveway and half of the car is burned. I'm assuming that the member used a dry shot, but I may be wrong.
So I am asking this: What causes people to have bad experiences (like above) when using nitrous? Can a wet shot or direct port prevent this problem? Is it much safer to play with a direct port than a dry? Or is nitrous in general prone to accidents no matter the type setup?
I saw the pictures of a members c6 in their driveway and half of the car is burned. I'm assuming that the member used a dry shot, but I may be wrong.
So I am asking this: What causes people to have bad experiences (like above) when using nitrous? Can a wet shot or direct port prevent this problem? Is it much safer to play with a direct port than a dry? Or is nitrous in general prone to accidents no matter the type setup?
i'd say the car was burned cause it was a wet shot used without a window switch and the motor puddled, or maybe a fuel fitting was not secured and it went on a hot motor etc. To many factors. You could do a nitrous system with a fpss, lean shut of switch, window switch, wide band, fuel pressure guage and that would be an overkill set up that would allow you to monitor basically all that effects your system, but no power adder is completely safe. With a wet kit you rely on your pump to get enough fuel , with a dry kit you rely on your injectors to get enough fuel. With a fuel pressure guage you can keep an eye on how the pump is doing, wideband will let you see the a/f with either kit thats something you would keep your eye on more when using a dry kit. A progressive controller will let the kit of the nitrous not be so hard on the motor the downside is it puts a lot of wear and tear on the noids. Basically everything is a trade off
Take you car to a sponsor and have it installed. I have a 150 Shot Wet on my 154,xxx mile Lt1 car and have had Zero problems. No back fires nothing, Bad things happen from bad wiring, improper tuning, improper install, lack of safety systems used, and improper use of the nitrous system it self. Especially for your location i would recommend contacting www.nitrousoutlet.com, they are local for you and will get you dialed in safe as can be. I installed mine myself but i have experience with such things. Nitrous outlet is a top quality shop and i have nothing but good things to say about them.
Thread Starter
Teching In
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 30
Likes: 0
From: Houston
So if I take every precaution necessary (utilizing all the additional safety components for nitrous systems) I won't flood the motor for start-up with a wet shot? Is there a way I could make it impossible to flood? I don't want any fires or explosions.....besides whats inside the motor....
And thanks for the nitrous outlet link!
And thanks for the nitrous outlet link!
only problem ive ever had is tryin to spray on too low of bottle pressure and had a backfire but that was my own stupidity..ive sprayed quite a number of bottles through both my motors and that was the only time i had any problem
I believe most backfires come from spraying at to low of an RPM range <3000. I have had never had a backfire so i couldn't tell you for sure. I have had my nitrous solenoid not open from Nitrous pressure to high (My fault) and just inject 150 Hp worth of fuel through my intake at 3100 Rpm (where my window switch is set at) and that did nothing but just bog out. No damage done. I just wouldn't make a habit of stuff like that. Any time you add power to a motor you are putting yourself at risk for breaking more things, its just a fact. depending on how much your going to spray i would look into a new clutch and a fuel pump. Just a FYI
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Verdad Gallardo Its safer its just more expensive and way overkill for for a small as a shot your probably going to use. Plus i think there is a minimum jetting you can run or something like that. I would definitely contact Nitrous outlet if you have any questions about a direct port setup or are considering it. They have a pretty high reputation for there direct port set ups. https://ls1tech.com/forums/showthrea...ort+pic+direct
As far as safest goes, a direct port setup is at the top. Best distribution to the intake runners and will help decrease your chances of a back fire. You should be able to handle a pretty decent shot on your stock motor. since you plan to go bigger cubes i would recommend getting a direct port since you can grow into just about any sized shot you want and still be safer then any other system. I would still recommend, bottle heater, window switch, stand alone, etc to go along with your system to make it safe as possible.
We do a lot of direct port installs and would be more then happy to work you up a good price. We do a lot of very trick setups that look sexy and are top of the line in terms of function
We do a lot of direct port installs and would be more then happy to work you up a good price. We do a lot of very trick setups that look sexy and are top of the line in terms of function
Thread Starter
Teching In
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 30
Likes: 0
From: Houston
Thank you all.
I appreciate the post from you as well Mike.
It seems as though no matter the route, the only thing to keep it safe is to fully take advantage of the accessories or additional options one can get with a nitrous setup like those mentioned in all the posts here.
Thanks for all the great info.
I appreciate the post from you as well Mike.
It seems as though no matter the route, the only thing to keep it safe is to fully take advantage of the accessories or additional options one can get with a nitrous setup like those mentioned in all the posts here.
Thanks for all the great info.
Thank you all.
I appreciate the post from you as well Mike.
It seems as though no matter the route, the only thing to keep it safe is to fully take advantage of the accessories or additional options one can get with a nitrous setup like those mentioned in all the posts here.
Thanks for all the great info.
I appreciate the post from you as well Mike.
It seems as though no matter the route, the only thing to keep it safe is to fully take advantage of the accessories or additional options one can get with a nitrous setup like those mentioned in all the posts here.
Thanks for all the great info.
Take you car to a sponsor and have it installed. I have a 150 Shot Wet on my 154,xxx mile Lt1 car and have had Zero problems. No back fires nothing, Bad things happen from bad wiring, improper tuning, improper install, lack of safety systems used, and improper use of the nitrous system it self. Especially for your location i would recommend contacting www.nitrousoutlet.com, they are local for you and will get you dialed in safe as can be. I installed mine myself but i have experience with such things. Nitrous outlet is a top quality shop and i have nothing but good things to say about them.
To the original poster, you have it wrong. Try to find anywhere in the nitrous world a DRY hit car that has burned, you will not. You should read the wet vs dry thread, a very long read but really insightfully. You get truck loads of info on both types of systems. these days i always ask, give me one good reason to go old tech wet over new tech dry on the EFI/LSx platform. Many new dry products on the market these days that make it a no brainier, wet hits are certainly starting to diminish as the favorite style. Anyway, good luck on your choice and n2o can be a safe power adder.
Wet vs Dry Thread
Robert
that is a great thread with lots of info +1 to reading that...but i would still make sure you give one of the guys at nitrous outlet a call. they are great and really know their stuff.
I'm debating whether or not to get nitrous on my LS2 C6. I plan to eventually go bigger cubed (made a thread about it already) and want SAFE power. I would hate for something to go wrong mechanically or electronically (or just me forgetting something was on) and having the car totalled due to a fire or other cause due to a nitrous set-up.
I saw the pictures of a members c6 in their driveway and half of the car is burned. I'm assuming that the member used a dry shot, but I may be wrong.
So I am asking this: What causes people to have bad experiences (like above) when using nitrous? Can a wet shot or direct port prevent this problem? Is it much safer to play with a direct port than a dry? Or is nitrous in general prone to accidents no matter the type setup?
I saw the pictures of a members c6 in their driveway and half of the car is burned. I'm assuming that the member used a dry shot, but I may be wrong.
So I am asking this: What causes people to have bad experiences (like above) when using nitrous? Can a wet shot or direct port prevent this problem? Is it much safer to play with a direct port than a dry? Or is nitrous in general prone to accidents no matter the type setup?
I said the same thing when I started my nitrous system. i wanted the absolutely safest nitrous set-up i could get and to do things the right way really cost.
I ended up with basically every safety switch you could buy, a stand-alone, plate first stage, direct port second....
I looked into the dry kits and without me personally tuning my car I decided against it. Plus to run teh size shot I wanted to run I would of had to switch to low impedance injectors...It just wasn't worth the trouble to me.
Although it seems like you're really not going to be spraying enough to warrant 2 stages or a large kit. I would suggest a dry system plumbed into a plate with either efilive cos 5 or the hsw controller for anything below a 200 shot. At around 200 you need to look at a directport simply for saftely. Wet nozzles can easily spray 300 shots but just not safely.
Also before you make the leap to direct port you need to look at the head set-up you may want to run for the larger cubes. If you plumb a direct port to a fast 90 and then later switch to ls7 heads for the larger motor you would have to redo the direct port on the new intake.
I would have to give a shout out to nitrous-outlet for their systems and tech service...
I ended up with basically every safety switch you could buy, a stand-alone, plate first stage, direct port second....
I looked into the dry kits and without me personally tuning my car I decided against it. Plus to run teh size shot I wanted to run I would of had to switch to low impedance injectors...It just wasn't worth the trouble to me.
Although it seems like you're really not going to be spraying enough to warrant 2 stages or a large kit. I would suggest a dry system plumbed into a plate with either efilive cos 5 or the hsw controller for anything below a 200 shot. At around 200 you need to look at a directport simply for saftely. Wet nozzles can easily spray 300 shots but just not safely.
Also before you make the leap to direct port you need to look at the head set-up you may want to run for the larger cubes. If you plumb a direct port to a fast 90 and then later switch to ls7 heads for the larger motor you would have to redo the direct port on the new intake.
I would have to give a shout out to nitrous-outlet for their systems and tech service...
I said the same thing when I started my nitrous system. i wanted the absolutely safest nitrous set-up i could get and to do things the right way really cost.
I ended up with basically every safety switch you could buy, a stand-alone, plate first stage, direct port second....
I looked into the dry kits and without me personally tuning my car I decided against it. Plus to run teh size shot I wanted to run I would of had to switch to low impedance injectors...It just wasn't worth the trouble to me.
Although it seems like you're really not going to be spraying enough to warrant 2 stages or a large kit. I would suggest a dry system plumbed into a plate with either efilive cos 5 or the hsw controller for anything below a 200 shot. At around 200 you need to look at a directport simply for saftely. Wet nozzles can easily spray 300 shots but just not safely.
Also before you make the leap to direct port you need to look at the head set-up you may want to run for the larger cubes. If you plumb a direct port to a fast 90 and then later switch to ls7 heads for the larger motor you would have to redo the direct port on the new intake.
I would have to give a shout out to nitrous-outlet for their systems and tech service...
I ended up with basically every safety switch you could buy, a stand-alone, plate first stage, direct port second....
I looked into the dry kits and without me personally tuning my car I decided against it. Plus to run teh size shot I wanted to run I would of had to switch to low impedance injectors...It just wasn't worth the trouble to me.
Although it seems like you're really not going to be spraying enough to warrant 2 stages or a large kit. I would suggest a dry system plumbed into a plate with either efilive cos 5 or the hsw controller for anything below a 200 shot. At around 200 you need to look at a directport simply for saftely. Wet nozzles can easily spray 300 shots but just not safely.
Also before you make the leap to direct port you need to look at the head set-up you may want to run for the larger cubes. If you plumb a direct port to a fast 90 and then later switch to ls7 heads for the larger motor you would have to redo the direct port on the new intake.
I would have to give a shout out to nitrous-outlet for their systems and tech service...
Hey Lythropus, good input. To clarify a couple things, on the dry shot and injectors, we now have 80lb'ers we can run with out going to after market PCM, Racetronics has them. Also, on the going to DP on over 200hp shots, true for Wet, but the dry hits do not run into drop out problems like the heavy gasoline. So, going straight down the neck before the MAF, and limits has not been found for any reason that I am aware of, and have gone as far as 300, and over that then yea maybe DP should be the limit? I chose to go DP Dry this time around as the Interface and/or the EFI Live COS 5 (though I don't know anyone yet using the EFI live for a DP Dry) makes this a no brainer, IMO, and the temps per cylinder are closer with a dry DP than a Wet DP and that shows the Dry DP as the better distributor.
Robert
do a search with the word backfire in the NOS forum:
heres a good found:
https://ls1tech.com/forums/showthrea...t=dry+backfire
contains this post by Dave at nitrous outlet;
Like I have stated many many times.. Coming from a NEUTRAL standpoint. I have delt with alot of cars and a lot of nitrous setups. I have seen backfires from both DRY and WET nitrous systems. I have seen blown motors from both DRY and WET nitrous systems.
Granted I have been around helping and working on alot more cars than some.
A backfire through the intake is normally a lean pop.. However there are other ways to cause it..
The only thing that can truthfully and accurately be said is that a nitrous backfire with a wet system is normally more violant than one with a dry system.(The reason why is with a wet system there are more Fuel vapors in the intake than with a dry system.
Most all backfires are caused from the following,
Bad tune up- To rich/ to lean, wrong timing
Spraying under to low of a RPM
Taging rev limiter.
FOR EVERYONE READING..
All nitrous systems require knowing your tune up.
Dave
_______________________
with this said, a lean wet AND dry shot are ugly. Get a WIDEBAND to know your a/f ratio before spraying at will. I've been reading for 2 months now in this section and I'm really happy I did before spraying!!
heres a good found:
https://ls1tech.com/forums/showthrea...t=dry+backfire
contains this post by Dave at nitrous outlet;
Like I have stated many many times.. Coming from a NEUTRAL standpoint. I have delt with alot of cars and a lot of nitrous setups. I have seen backfires from both DRY and WET nitrous systems. I have seen blown motors from both DRY and WET nitrous systems.
Granted I have been around helping and working on alot more cars than some.
A backfire through the intake is normally a lean pop.. However there are other ways to cause it..
The only thing that can truthfully and accurately be said is that a nitrous backfire with a wet system is normally more violant than one with a dry system.(The reason why is with a wet system there are more Fuel vapors in the intake than with a dry system.
Most all backfires are caused from the following,
Bad tune up- To rich/ to lean, wrong timing
Spraying under to low of a RPM
Taging rev limiter.
FOR EVERYONE READING..
All nitrous systems require knowing your tune up.
Dave
_______________________
with this said, a lean wet AND dry shot are ugly. Get a WIDEBAND to know your a/f ratio before spraying at will. I've been reading for 2 months now in this section and I'm really happy I did before spraying!!
What your grandpa told you was true. If you can't afford to risk something, then don't.
Your best risk is with a simple dry shot.
If spending more money makes you feel safer, then go with a dry direct port system.
