Nitrous issues found..kinda of..
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From: Avondale, AZ
So went to the track today and took my bottle and my friends bottle. First run on my bottle car his for a sec and then thats it nothing else, car went 12.2@110. So I went back and after being told a couple times my bottle is making wierd noises when its being filled and they suggest something inside of it is messed up. So i take my friends bottle filled by the same place and put it in my car heat it up to 950psi and head down the track. Car hit at the 120ft mark like my bottle and kept on spraying and the car went 11.7@119 on a 100 shot. I still cant get the car to spray out of the hole. Think its cause of where i tapped for the tps. I tapped right from the computer, anyone have issues with a delay when tapping there?
Its fine to tap it at the computer. That where most people do.
How did you tap it? Did you use one of the splicing taps? They are absolute junk. If you did you should cut,strip and solder and heat shrink the wires. or atleast use a good butt splice with heat shrink.
If your buddies bottle worked better but still not 100% I would condemen your bottle just yet. Could just be that the TPS stayed connected for MOST of the run on that particular run.
How did you tap it? Did you use one of the splicing taps? They are absolute junk. If you did you should cut,strip and solder and heat shrink the wires. or atleast use a good butt splice with heat shrink.
If your buddies bottle worked better but still not 100% I would condemen your bottle just yet. Could just be that the TPS stayed connected for MOST of the run on that particular run.
Thread Starter
11 Second Club
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From: Avondale, AZ
Its fine to tap it at the computer. That where most people do.
How did you tap it? Did you use one of the splicing taps? They are absolute junk. If you did you should cut,strip and solder and heat shrink the wires. or atleast use a good butt splice with heat shrink.
If your buddies bottle worked better but still not 100% I would condemen your bottle just yet. Could just be that the TPS stayed connected for MOST of the run on that particular run.
How did you tap it? Did you use one of the splicing taps? They are absolute junk. If you did you should cut,strip and solder and heat shrink the wires. or atleast use a good butt splice with heat shrink.
If your buddies bottle worked better but still not 100% I would condemen your bottle just yet. Could just be that the TPS stayed connected for MOST of the run on that particular run.

also used them to tap my rpm signal, and iat when the interface was hooked up
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Thread Starter
11 Second Club
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From: Avondale, AZ
Im guessing no window switch? I would just go through all the wiring and maybe replace your relay with your friends and see if that helps . also dont use those wire connectors you shown in this thread they have a tendency of not making good contact.
I been talking about this in the other thread for the bottle air..
But I have my crap that about 10 of us screwed with yesterday at the track...
So I made sure around 7 guys seen me purge... We all looked to make sure the line was full and it was.
go to hit the **** down the track, and I get a little bump, then back to a normal feeling run. After the run, we check the line, all ******* air.
purged for a 30 seconds solid again, all air coming out....
then a little nitrous. So get the nitrous there, and I am like, this is going to clear again.
So I am all purged, drive to the staging lanes, check the **** again, and 1 second of nitrous, and right behind that.. air again.....
So this is my experience with fucked bottles on the fill..
I am not saying this is your issue... But this is bottle 2 from the same place..
and I have 2 bottles from another place that was the same.
I verified by emptying 6lb's of what I thought was going to be nitrous, but ended up air, into the air.
But I have my crap that about 10 of us screwed with yesterday at the track...
So I made sure around 7 guys seen me purge... We all looked to make sure the line was full and it was.
go to hit the **** down the track, and I get a little bump, then back to a normal feeling run. After the run, we check the line, all ******* air.
purged for a 30 seconds solid again, all air coming out....
then a little nitrous. So get the nitrous there, and I am like, this is going to clear again.
So I am all purged, drive to the staging lanes, check the **** again, and 1 second of nitrous, and right behind that.. air again.....
So this is my experience with fucked bottles on the fill..
I am not saying this is your issue... But this is bottle 2 from the same place..
and I have 2 bottles from another place that was the same.
I verified by emptying 6lb's of what I thought was going to be nitrous, but ended up air, into the air.
Thread Starter
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From: Avondale, AZ
running window swith with tps sensor. So you guys are saying cut the wire from the computer put my wire use the tps wire and the computer wire twist them togther and put it in a reg connector with the other computer wire on the other side
Thread Starter
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From: Avondale, AZ
Hopefully these will help. I didn't feel like undoing the tape that bundled the wires together but should give you a good idea. Look at the green shrink wrap and the blue wires on the lower right side of the connector. You should have my cell if you have any more questions.



