After a year of debating between H/C/LT or Nitrous I have decided to go with nitrous. The main reasons are money and the fact that I don't want to deviate my car too much from stock. I just want that extra boost whenever I need it. I have also decided to go with HSW since he was very easy to communicate with and his prices are great. He also sent me a sample instruction sheet without hesitation so I could see if it was customized for my car instead of being generic. It was and it looked really easy.

Here is what I have come up with:

-Basic Dry kit (HSW)
-Remote bottle opener (HSW)
-Window switch (HSW)
-Filter
-Fuel pressure cut-off switch
-Special bracket for spare tire area (another vendor)
-Bottle heater (HSW)
-Ashtray mounted panel (HSW)
-NGK TR6 plugs (HSW)

I learned a lot from the stickies at the top but I have more questions:

-I want to know how you guys routed your wires and hoses? In the car or under? I assume that the wires need a constant 12 volt source. Is there a place in the trunk for this or did you connect it to the battery or another place?

-Where did you mount the window switch? I don't want to drill on my car anymore than I have to.

-Is there a special place to take the wires/feed hose from the back of the trunk to the engine compartment? Firewall grommet to use?


I'm sure I'll have more in the future but that's all I can think of at the moment. Pictures would be great. Thanks.

 

honestly, get the nano push system instead of the bottle heater. It will add $300 to your bottom line, but it is really cool if you have the $$$ and will smooth out your power curve.

 

Never heard of it but I"ll certainly check it out. Thanks.

 

You will need to run a power wire from the "Acc" terminal on the drivers side of the engine compartment to the spare tire well. The best place to go through the firewall is on the pass. side behind the PCM (you will have to remove it only four bolts). I would suggest you run at least a 8ga. wire.
I mounted my Timing Tuner (window switch) right above the batt. had to drill two small holes. Hope that helps. P.S. take your time with the wiring and solder all connections and use heatshrink. Before you start to run wires and cover them in splitloom you should carefully think out all of the wire routes so you can keep it clean. Make sure any power wire is fused as close as poss. to where you get the power. Have fun there is alot of wire you will have to run........

 

I mounted my window switch and most of the wires as listed by madclown....like he said...do it right the first time so it looks nice and clean

 

My BMN window switch is tucked under the side of the console, right around where the little pocket is under the radio just in front of the shifter - hope that makes sense.

I chose NOT to mount mine because I wanted to have access to it any time I needed to make adjustments. It happily sits hidden in there and with black splitloom on all its wires, its very clean to pull out as if its on a "whip" to be adjusted as needed and then stored again.

As for routing the line and wiring, I used the passenger side of the car for everything. You will need to pull your PCM as pointed out earlier. There is a rubber grommet under it that u can either puncture and route through, or just cut and remove it, drill it out and reinstall it. WHATEVER YOU DO, MAKE SURE IT GETS PUT BACK IN PLACE so you do not damage any wiring passing through the hole. You'll be looking for this:



Very cool on the 3rd party wheel well bottle mount! I wanted to get something too, but rather in my haste I ended up just fabbing something up that met the requirements:



Hopefully my info is helpful. Let me know if you have any questions.

-Eagle


*EDIT* - by the way, you made a wise choice to go to the bottle! Just wait until you feel the difference it makes. Guys running several thousand dollars in H/C/I upgrades might have power without the bottle, but you'll have just as much if not more and still have cash left in your wallet for required suspension, tire and tune budgets!