Single stage window switch
#1
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Ok running a nitrous outlet single stage window switch on my car from nitrous outlet with the tps wire hook up. I posted about my issue a month ago and went back to the track 2x since then and still having the same issue. Car will not spray to the 120ft mark. Tps voltage was org 4.7 coming on at 3k, went down to 4.4 with 2,900 same issue, and yesterday ran it at 4.1 with 2,900 and same issue. I dont understand this when i set it it reads right away, rpms on the window switch show 100 higher so if my car is idling at 800 my window switch reads 900 not a big deal just sould cause the nitrous to come in early and cut off a little early.
As far as wiring i have it wired at the computer for rpm and tps voltage. connections are good. Not sure if its the unit itself or what. I have it set on:
step 1 004
step 2 0
step 3 02.9
step 4 05.9
step 5 002
step 6 .7 idle, 4.1 wot
I did not add any wire to the unit it goes from the glovebox to computer that is the longest part. So basically left the wires the length they were when i got the unit.
Oh yea the car has sprayed 1 time out of the hole in the 3 bottles through the car, and got it to hit yesterday kind of out of the hole didnt realize the car was in 2nd and it bogged then sprayed. Car has a 3k stall, i stall the car up to 1600-1800 then launch, have tried stalling it up higher to around 2100-2200 and same results
As far as wiring i have it wired at the computer for rpm and tps voltage. connections are good. Not sure if its the unit itself or what. I have it set on:
step 1 004
step 2 0
step 3 02.9
step 4 05.9
step 5 002
step 6 .7 idle, 4.1 wot
I did not add any wire to the unit it goes from the glovebox to computer that is the longest part. So basically left the wires the length they were when i got the unit.
Oh yea the car has sprayed 1 time out of the hole in the 3 bottles through the car, and got it to hit yesterday kind of out of the hole didnt realize the car was in 2nd and it bogged then sprayed. Car has a 3k stall, i stall the car up to 1600-1800 then launch, have tried stalling it up higher to around 2100-2200 and same results
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Dam that sucks.. sorry to see you having those issues..
I have seen alot of people having issues with their window switchs...
All the problems I read about them, made me not get one.. I rely on the good old trust worthy FINGER... My finger has not failed me yet on pushing and releasing the button.
good luck on getting that fixed... I have not played with them, so have no suggestions to offer
I have seen alot of people having issues with their window switchs...
All the problems I read about them, made me not get one.. I rely on the good old trust worthy FINGER... My finger has not failed me yet on pushing and releasing the button.
good luck on getting that fixed... I have not played with them, so have no suggestions to offer
#6
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The digital read out will let you know what is going on.
At launch or WOT the first digit should show 1 solid.
At the low RPM the second digit should show 1 Solid.
0= that fieature is not active.
If you could have someone watch the LED while driving then this will let you know where to look.
At launch or WOT the first digit should show 1 solid.
At the low RPM the second digit should show 1 Solid.
0= that fieature is not active.
If you could have someone watch the LED while driving then this will let you know where to look.
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i checked rpms at idle, 1500, and 3000 all same just 100 off. I havent been able to watch it and launch i'll go activate the system later on with my friend and have him watch it to see if it goes automatically
#12
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Ok one final test. Take a test light and clip it to the pink wire going to the relay(making sure you have contact), and ground the other side of the light, and see is the light turns on when you are wot and in the window. If you do not have a test light a simple 12volt light of any kind will work.