02blackbeauty19

iTrader: (22)

First let me say this:

-I use 93 octane fuel
-TR6 Plugs
-100 shot wet plate kit
-On dyno, the spray initially hits hard but then seems to get weak and goes rich the higher the RPM goes
-KR was 0 across the board when tuned except for one spot where it was .3
-Cam + spray = no problem......After head install, it pings pretty violently.

Car seems to run pretty good on motor, no odd sounds, maybe just a little weak with the heads/cam setup I have but nothing really out of the ordinary. I may have covered all the options but if I didnt Ill answer any questions to the best of my ability. I really need to get this figured out.

Thanks guys
Chris

quickblade

I see alot of stuff on heads lifting from juice... And the fix is longer head bolts..
Not sure.. have not had this issue, or seen anyone post about it...

But at least its a thought.... sorry not much help from me...

only that ..... Or timing..

00cls1camaross

iTrader: (10)

i think if you add 3-4 gallons of some higher octane fuel you will be better off. That is what we do and don't have any pinging

02blackbeauty19

iTrader: (22)

Ok, Ill give it a try.

LS699TA

its the 93... half the time you get 93 octane, its so old, its back to mid grade.... or at least it is sometimes here.

i always try to use some torco or 104 when i spray, its just plain cheap insurance.

im not sure wtf quickblade is talkin about. i spray 250 without my heads lifting or any gasket issuies.

you can and should take a degree or two of timing out if you can, but the .3 knock isnt anything to sweat in my opinion. 3.0 is btw, especially if your using unleaded race gas

02blackbeauty19

iTrader: (22)

Well the 93 is always fresh, my family owns a gas station and we pump quite a bit but It is possible to get a tank of not so good gas. I understand that. Im gonna drive out to our suplier and get some race gas. Do you use 104 leaded or unleaded? Thanks

Prototype007

iTrader: (2)

Probably uses unleaded so it won't hurt the o2 sensors

Big Geek

iTrader: (2)

Sounds like you are picking up some knock and that my friend is NOT GOOD. In this day and age we are now beginning to rely too heavily, in my opinion, on digital data acquisition. This is not to say that these items aren't accurate or worth their salt but more-so sometimes "old school" can be better in certain situations. Check with some of the vendors who test their products should you trust them more but I feel you would gain a more accurate picture loading the car on a dyno, spraying it and then reading the plugs. Make sure to add a couple of points of octane first and then give it a 2-3 second shot of gas. After that bump it to neutral and shut it down immediately and ****** those plugs out. Take a good old fashion magnifying glass and check out the plugs. Make sure they are a grayish color preferably with NO type of aluminum specs on the electrodes. If they do have specs then you are picking up some pre or post detonation whether you hear it or not. If it were me I would mix 5 gallons of 93.5 with 3 gallons of 110 for a total octane yield of 99.68. This should cure any detonation for that amount of N2O suffice that the rating you gave is at the flywheel and not the wheels. If it is a rear wheel rating I would add on more gallons of 110 and work backwards slowly. Leaner can be meaner to a point but remember that it is better to be a little too rich than the other way around. I hope all of this rambling helps you in some way.

Jim C.

02blackbeauty19

iTrader: (22)

I understand your point. Ill see what I can do and then keep you guys updated

Big Geek

iTrader: (2)

Don't know why I got so hung up about octane but I forgot to mention that if if your compression did get raised with the new heads try lowering the timing a couple of degrees.

Jim C.

02blackbeauty19

iTrader: (22)

timing is 21* full advance. I do have an update....I just drove it and it runs like ****. It has almost no power and stumbles through the RPM range

CODE4LS1

iTrader: (4)

Check your fuel pressure. Could be running lean due to loss of fuel pressure higher in the RPM range.

madclown

iTrader: (4)

Pull the spark plugs and take a look at them you may have burnt one or two. As for getting richer in the upper RPM's that is normal unless you are running a Nano system. The bottle pressure drops as you spray. What was the A/F Ratio on the Dyno? I run right at 21* full advance with the stock heads when I spray. I think you may want to take a little more out.

02blackbeauty19

iTrader: (22)

A/F starts out at about 13:1 then reaches about 10.9:1

Big Geek

iTrader: (2)

Pull out those plugs and take a look at em. Let us know what you find. I am wondering if they are done for and need replacing. That is the first place to start. Hope this helps.

Jim C.

quickblade

I had recently seen a few posts of people talking about their heads lifting when spraying.. I never read into the posts.. So I was just making mention that I had seen that on here somewhere.

ahhhh.. but the gas talk.. LOL
dam dont know what I was talking about the other day.
Now that I think about it, it probably is the gas. When I spray on crappy gas, it pings and is not good. Need to find some good gas.

02blackbeauty19

iTrader: (22)

The plugs are brand new but I am going to pull them anyway.

I think its more of an issue with the motor of valves becuase I drove it today and it has NO power, stumbles through the RPM range, and even statred backfiring. Probably going to pull the heads tonight

Question: Could haveing a bent valve cause pinging when I spray?

02blackbeauty19

iTrader: (22)

BIG UPDATE:

Decided to do another leakdown on 5 and 7 cylinders since it seemed to get worse today while I was driving it.

5 was 10% leakage but 7 was 30% leakage and clearly was coming from the oil cap and dip stick tube. I then proceded to squirt oil in the cylinder and it fell to 13%

New motor time

Johnnystock

iTrader: (6)

its time for a forged 383 to match your new heads LOL

ScramingYellowZonker

damn that sucks. but that shouldn't cause a ping. I think you raised your compression ratio with the new heads. Do you have a way to read the knock while driving? You might have to run a higher grade fuel or retard the timing more.(that is if your fuel pump is good)