Advanced Nitrous Knowledge?
I've read thousands of basic nitrous write-ups and I've done a simple (zex) wet kit on my cobra, but I wanted to know more. I know this thread might seem generalized, but I assumed this would be the best place to ask. From compression ratios to stage set-ups to electrical, etc....any and all information is welcomed. Thanks.
There is a book that sells in JEGS it's called "How to use and install nitrous" I figured it would be pretty basic stuff and alot of it is but it gets pretty in depth. There is alot of good info in it.
I've got that book in stock and ready to go
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let me see if I can find a few past posts. Dont gouge me on the specifics...some of my veiws have changed slightly...but the basic priciples are the same.
I love the advanced discussion myself.
I love the advanced discussion myself.
I think the thing we need most is advanced discussion on wiring...... That seems to be what most of the questions about because its the most in depth part and can be confusing when you try to add in a window switch, fpss, purge, wot, progressive, hsw Interface, and then the nitrous system on top of it
Im so confused at this point with the wiring i dont even know where to start.
Ps: HSW i called 3 times today and left a message to order my interface among other things and no call back or anything
Sry for the
Im so confused at this point with the wiring i dont even know where to start.Ps: HSW i called 3 times today and left a message to order my interface among other things and no call back or anything
Sry for the
This was from 2003
More good discussion on rpm vs cylinder pressure and stress related to nitrous and how to propely plan your nitrous delivery.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/showthrea...394&highlight=
One on AF for larger shots
https://ls1tech.com/forums/showthrea...056&highlight=
Look up Robert56 and check out some of the dry tuning threads he has made...good stuff there.
Use the search...there are YEARS or VERY technical nitrous discussion hidden within this forum.
The basic principle behind multistage RPM controlled nitrous sytems is to limit Tq. Tq is directly proportional to cylinder pressure...and very high cylinder pressure is what kills bottom ends prematurely.
On a basic single stage nitrous sytem of say...150 shot. Coming on at 3000 rpm and shutting off at 6500, you would have a horrible Tq curve. Its basically the worst case scenario. If youve ever seen a nitrous dyno graph of a 150 shot single stage kit...its a large TQ (cylinder pressure) spike at 3000 rpm where it kicks in. Say around 550-600 ft lbs at 3000 rpms. And it quickly tapers off from there into the upper rpm range. Tq will fall of to somewhere in the low 400s probably. So over the course of the rpm band you have huge tq differences. Now we know peak acceleration occures at peak TQ. Thats just a fact. So obviously max acceleration with this setup will be in the lower rpms..which is ok for off the line or if you hit it from a slower roll where your rpm is down. But once you shift to the next gear you will be in the RPM band where your TQ has fallen off. Not ideal....and to make matters worse...you must tune to compensate for the max cylinder pressure..which is in the lower rpms. You dont need as much timing retard in the upper rpms range since cylinder pressure(tq) has dropped off considerabley.
If your bottom end can take 550 rwtq at 3000 rpms it can take an equal amount of cylinder pressure at 5500 rpm or even 6500 rpm. But in reality you can step it down a notch across the entire rpm band...subject your bottom end to LESS cylinder pressure and still have a much faster car by having a broader more flat TQ range. Thats where multi stage RPM based comes in. Hit it with atleast two stages...prefferable three. Thes three stages are NOT to dump a ton of juice...more to just divide it up over the rpm range and make it more usable.
Think about the first single stage nitrous Tq curve again. 550-600 rwtq at 3000 rpm and tapering off to 400 rwtq at 6000 rpm and even lower as you go up in RPM.
Now if you set it up with multi stages...say three. You basically bring the TQ up to the range you want at the first stage at 3000 rpms. Say a mild 525 ft/lbs . Then as Tq quickly tapers off as rpms climb hit it with another stage at say...4500 rpm with a slightly smaller shot. Bring Tq back up to 525 ft/lbs again. And then once again with a third stage at say 5500. Goal is to keep approx 500 ft/lbs across the board. You do this on a dyno while jetting to the levels you want. Forget all the manufacturers ratings of a "150 shot" or a "100 shot". We want to document Tq output and tune everything to this. This will do several things.
It makes it easier for Jeremy to tune since there are no wild cylinder pressure swings during the rpm range. And of course it delivers a more useful avg tq output. Also you have hit your bottom end with less cylinder pressure. Also in cases where people really want to pump up the HP you can jet and tune to a very fine degree. As Ive said before...we have a stock bottom SS making over 600 rwhp. It has been raced almost every weekend. Including this weekend (took out two stangs this sat night )
Combine this principle with Jeremy's custom nitrous tuning...and you will have a fast car that will live a long time. With the complete reliabilty of the LS1/LS6 computer running all the timing.
Now for all out drag racing...from a stop...and only a stop. A good pregressive controller or time based stages can be at least as effective if not more effective. But that would make it tough for Jeremy to tune and of course would only be good from a stop. The idea behind the rpm based setup is to be able to grab ANY gear at ANY time and not worry about the motor. From a stop..from a roll...its all good. You also only need to arm the switches and go....with the nitrous switches off....you will still have full timing on motor. Best of both worlds.
On a basic single stage nitrous sytem of say...150 shot. Coming on at 3000 rpm and shutting off at 6500, you would have a horrible Tq curve. Its basically the worst case scenario. If youve ever seen a nitrous dyno graph of a 150 shot single stage kit...its a large TQ (cylinder pressure) spike at 3000 rpm where it kicks in. Say around 550-600 ft lbs at 3000 rpms. And it quickly tapers off from there into the upper rpm range. Tq will fall of to somewhere in the low 400s probably. So over the course of the rpm band you have huge tq differences. Now we know peak acceleration occures at peak TQ. Thats just a fact. So obviously max acceleration with this setup will be in the lower rpms..which is ok for off the line or if you hit it from a slower roll where your rpm is down. But once you shift to the next gear you will be in the RPM band where your TQ has fallen off. Not ideal....and to make matters worse...you must tune to compensate for the max cylinder pressure..which is in the lower rpms. You dont need as much timing retard in the upper rpms range since cylinder pressure(tq) has dropped off considerabley.
If your bottom end can take 550 rwtq at 3000 rpms it can take an equal amount of cylinder pressure at 5500 rpm or even 6500 rpm. But in reality you can step it down a notch across the entire rpm band...subject your bottom end to LESS cylinder pressure and still have a much faster car by having a broader more flat TQ range. Thats where multi stage RPM based comes in. Hit it with atleast two stages...prefferable three. Thes three stages are NOT to dump a ton of juice...more to just divide it up over the rpm range and make it more usable.
Think about the first single stage nitrous Tq curve again. 550-600 rwtq at 3000 rpm and tapering off to 400 rwtq at 6000 rpm and even lower as you go up in RPM.
Now if you set it up with multi stages...say three. You basically bring the TQ up to the range you want at the first stage at 3000 rpms. Say a mild 525 ft/lbs . Then as Tq quickly tapers off as rpms climb hit it with another stage at say...4500 rpm with a slightly smaller shot. Bring Tq back up to 525 ft/lbs again. And then once again with a third stage at say 5500. Goal is to keep approx 500 ft/lbs across the board. You do this on a dyno while jetting to the levels you want. Forget all the manufacturers ratings of a "150 shot" or a "100 shot". We want to document Tq output and tune everything to this. This will do several things.
It makes it easier for Jeremy to tune since there are no wild cylinder pressure swings during the rpm range. And of course it delivers a more useful avg tq output. Also you have hit your bottom end with less cylinder pressure. Also in cases where people really want to pump up the HP you can jet and tune to a very fine degree. As Ive said before...we have a stock bottom SS making over 600 rwhp. It has been raced almost every weekend. Including this weekend (took out two stangs this sat night )
Combine this principle with Jeremy's custom nitrous tuning...and you will have a fast car that will live a long time. With the complete reliabilty of the LS1/LS6 computer running all the timing.
Now for all out drag racing...from a stop...and only a stop. A good pregressive controller or time based stages can be at least as effective if not more effective. But that would make it tough for Jeremy to tune and of course would only be good from a stop. The idea behind the rpm based setup is to be able to grab ANY gear at ANY time and not worry about the motor. From a stop..from a roll...its all good. You also only need to arm the switches and go....with the nitrous switches off....you will still have full timing on motor. Best of both worlds.
More good discussion on rpm vs cylinder pressure and stress related to nitrous and how to propely plan your nitrous delivery.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/showthrea...394&highlight=
One on AF for larger shots
https://ls1tech.com/forums/showthrea...056&highlight=
Look up Robert56 and check out some of the dry tuning threads he has made...good stuff there.
Use the search...there are YEARS or VERY technical nitrous discussion hidden within this forum.
Reading stuff of the net can get you in trouble sometimes. Just because someone posts it and they sound like they know what they are doing doesn't really mean that they do. Just be careful.
This was from 2003
More good discussion on rpm vs cylinder pressure and stress related to nitrous and how to propely plan your nitrous delivery.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/showthrea...394&highlight=
One on AF for larger shots
https://ls1tech.com/forums/showthrea...056&highlight=
Look up Robert56 and check out some of the dry tuning threads he has made...good stuff there.
Use the search...there are YEARS or VERY technical nitrous discussion hidden within this forum.
More good discussion on rpm vs cylinder pressure and stress related to nitrous and how to propely plan your nitrous delivery.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/showthrea...394&highlight=
One on AF for larger shots
https://ls1tech.com/forums/showthrea...056&highlight=
Look up Robert56 and check out some of the dry tuning threads he has made...good stuff there.
Use the search...there are YEARS or VERY technical nitrous discussion hidden within this forum.
AAAAAAGH, MY BRAIN!!!
Make it stop!!
Just trying to remember how I got mine wired up causes severe frontal lobe pressure! Good luck in your quest!
99 FRC
Can we start with how to use the search function? All the times you've bumped your thread asking for someone to spoon feed you were great times to be reading the things that come up under search. We have a search function, a vast nitrous section, a GREAT book that was suggested and you just want to be spoon fed information. If you wnated to learn that bad, you would be actively learning instead of asking for someone else to do this for you.
If you graduate from here, we'll teach you google
If you graduate from here, we'll teach you google



