5.7 ute

The question for the poll should be which system do you have? Most of the answers would be based on the posters preferred method not on any fact.

ShiznityZ28

iTrader: (11)

For 90% of the guys who just buy a kit and put it on the wet will hit harder. they have to learn how to tune the dry the wets are pretty much just slap them on and maybe go down(leaner) 1 jet on the fuel.

We know the science says they both hit the same but the tunning aspect its easyer for guys to put a simple kit on wet and it work.

Ray@Nitrous Outlet

this can be said for just about any poll on this board...whats the best header, cam, nitrous kit, etc

well put....

5_02ls1

iTrader: (20)

ive had several different kits on cars in the past and the dry kits do seem to hit harder....but ive learned the shorter the line is from the nossle to the solonoid plays a big role in how hard the initial hit is...ive learned on small shots 75-50 it depends alot on the rpm axs stated above...most kits will produce more tq in lower rpms....

Nitro Dave's Nitrous Outlet

iTrader: (25)

Robert..
Even you should know you can not expect two different set ups on two completely different applications to duplicate the same results.. You may take your set up and put it on LS2 baits car and make less numbers with the same tunning as well as Vice versa..


As for the wet VS dry hitting harder I think previous statements in this post have pretty much covered that. Its all in the way its introduced and tuned.

Dave

Robert56

iTrader: (2)

True sorta, at least in the past it was. with the advent of the dry plates and Interface, and the coming soon NX dry MAF which is mechanically dialed in, it's a rapidly changing story. it is now easy to set-up and dial in and repeatable everyday, no more wondering a/f. As a matter of fact, I will do this, take a out of the box wet plate kit, use the jets rec, then do a back to back with a dry plate kit and use the rec setting on the Interface, and we will see which is easier and which can be dialed in easier for the greater numbers. how's that sound. this i will do totally out of my own pocket, like I always have. we will also log everything and see which style has a rich or lean spike from the get go. My contention at this point from what i have been seeing lately is the new generation dry kit will in fact be closer to a good tune than the wet. any betters out there? Then, we will see if both can be dialed in to about the same hp/TQ and a/f, to then prove they are about the same in power output.
Robert
Robert

algws6

iTrader: (3)

i was going to try this in order to find out which hits harder wet or dry, but the inteface i had did not work properly. only difference was my setup, its a tnt kit. in order to do this correctly i think you would have to use the same plate and of course the same nitrous pill.

Robert56

iTrader: (2)

Yes the 360° pattern of the HSW dry and wet plate kits. I think it will be so damn close. What many don't understand yet is the fact that a wet kit comes with only a few jets. how many times have we read the threads that the wet kit was lean or rich, and the only immediate recourse was to use a jet from a hit size smaller or larger, but no way in hell can you dial in an exact a/f ratio. then their is the dry plate kit that comes with the Interface for fueling rather than mechanical jets. we can dial in increments of one or so HP, so we will get exactly what we want on day one, at the exact hour. Now who still thinks the wet is easier to set-up. unless the wet kit comes with about 50 jets, i see the dry hit dialing in and making more power from the get go. however, to make the comparison equal in the end, I do have my trusty numbered drill bit set and will drill the wet jets to get the exact same a/f as the out of box dry gets, and final a/f is still to be determined, but prob in the 12.5:1 to 13.0:1 area, yea no pantie waste 11.5 like some say to do, as it's my motor.
Robert

ShiznityZ28

iTrader: (11)

Robert i know YOU can get the same hp out of both im not arguing that. what im saying is find a 23 year old guy who got a ls1 last week never heard of ls1 tech.Hes gona order an off the shelf kit with no options fill the bottle and the wet will work better for him. If you got the extra cash for a controller and a wideband etc etc yes you are going to have success either way. 90% of the cars out there don't do it this way.....

FYI atv put a nos dry kit on his years back and it sucked....We figured out the lines it comes with are a restriction and the noids stick. we replaced those with good stuff and bam it worked like a champ.... He would not have figured this out if We had not had other nitrous cars with good kits. He would have sold it and bought a wet kit.

algws6

iTrader: (3)

i had access to many different jets, so it wasn't going to be much of a task to dial in the same a/f for the wet kit. i had some dyno time and wanted to put the "which hits harder wet or dry" to bed. also, for me it is just as easy to change the fuel pills as it was messing with the interface.

Robert56

iTrader: (2)

again, been there done that also. I had four different 5177s. Now it's much easier and better parts from the get go. The thing is the Interface comes with the dry plate kit, and even the 23 year old can figure it out. though your right, neither kit with out a WB can really be dialed in. The cost is as good as a wet kit with the controller included, and you flip a dip sw for the size hit and you get a slighlty rich starting a/f. I think when it's the dry plate kit vs the wet plate kit it can be at a min a wash now on which is easier, without a WB, and if having a WB then the dry will be better/easier. Time will tell.
Robert

ShiznityZ28

iTrader: (11)

Thats if they buy from HSW. 90% of the racing world does not know HSW. they know NOS ,NX, ZeX, Edelbrock, Cold fusion is slowly showing up.

Wet still rules the world.......

JIBBBY

Guys it's simple...

Dry systems - inject the NO into the intake air and throttle body...Now if the Nitrous nossle connection is right at the throttle body like my car is, it's going to hit hard and fast... Pre-MAF it may take a fraction of a second longer...


Wet systems - Inject directly with the fuel, so I woud venture to guess it takes a bit longer to get the fuel injectors...


So the dry system should hit harder and faster every time.... Well maybe not harder but probably faster... This is not comparing bottle pressures, etc.... Just the systems and how they are being set up...


Maybe the question should be what setup is safer to your motor... Now that can get technical and with that I can write a story..... Wetsystems are usually safer...

SLawson86

iTrader: (8)

jibbby, i am going to have to disagree with your description of wet systems, and also safety of systems...

wet nitrous system does not inject nitrous into the fuel line...

dry nitrous, simple... no puddling in the intake. i am a happy owner of a wet kit, but i am slowly starting to lean towards dry kits.

SLawson86

iTrader: (8)

i forgot to add, safety depends on the owner/tuner/experience completely! IMO dry is safer. notice i said IMO

ShiznityZ28

iTrader: (11)

Jibby your wrong again!!! The last 5 post i read of yours are completely wrong. that is not how a wet works. it does not inject it into the fuel line. the fuel line feeds fuel to a fuel noid and it mixes it at the nozzle and sprays it after the maf.

please stop posting about stuff you do not understand. Its ok to ask questions but giving out false info on here is a cancer here and everyone needs to stop.

Both will hit the same and make the same hp on perfect kits. The argument between robert and I is if a person who knows nothing about nitrous( like yourself) buys an off the shelf kit from the big nitrous companies and throws it on the car which works better. Its a toss up at this pont but we both have used legit arguments. now please move on!

JIBBBY

Sorry that is how I have always understood it to be.. Wet is the fuel mixing at the fuel noid in combination with the NO, maybe I should have termed that differently.....That is what I was really trying to say... Don't want to be a cancer on the forum... I have a dry system so I strongly believe I understand how that system works and how it is set up the best...

Shiznity - Last 5 post are wrong you say, hmmmm? Maybe this last one was wrongly discribed with the wet discription, but the last five post to be wrong, come on!!!!!...Now that is completely incorrect yourself..... You need to chill and just state the error if you see one and teach in the next post and I will read more about the wetsystems prior to posting....Thank you and Steve I must say you are a ruthless SOB..

For the record - I always thought wet systems are called "wet" because it mixes in with the fuel at the noid, no? Thought it was safer because it reaches the injectors more evenly...Is this not true? Dry big shots can distibute the NO unevenly potentially casing problems..If I am misinformed on this please forgive me as I need to learn just like everyone else... I really thought that was the case..

Easy fellas..Easy...

JIBBBY

Why is a dry system safer then a wet system? Please explain? Also thanks for your polite disagreement...

Nightrydass

dry is "safer" b/c you don't run the risk of fuel "puddleing" in your intake and exploding. Your not spraying fuel and nitrous into your intake. however, if your fuel pressure drops or regulator fails and you spray with little to no fuel, that is bad too and will also blow the motor. Also; anything that shoots into the intake runs the risk of once cylinder getting more/less then another one, which, can also be bad.

The "safest" system is a direct-port b/c everything is done evenly at the injector port, however, this is also the most expensive option.

JIBBBY

I didn't know about fuel "puddleing" with the wet systems.. Sounds scary....Thank you....