When are you gonna try to run it again?

 

Gonna try for wednesday if the weather holds out, we got a hurricane hittin the keys and cuba this week, so i'm sure we're gonna get some outer bands from it.

 

My car needs 150 shot to get out of its own way.

 

Yeah, tell me about it, 150 just starts to make the converter work a little, needs 200+ to really move out!

 

BTW, after fixing a few little issues and puttin the nitrous plate on top of my 1" spacer like noyzee recommended, all the plugs came out looking the same, so at least my distribution problem is gone (if that's what it was and not one of the other problems I fixed)!!!

 

I know with the converter I swapped to, my car is probably now a slug n/a as well. I haven't tried it, but just the fact that this one goes to 1200 rpm less at WOT on the brake then the other one did pretty much sums it up.

Nevermind the fact that I think the swap from 4.10's to 3.73's still slowed the car down a little too. Should have went 3.90's when I had the rear apart.

 

man the fule pressure is your problem! 100hp 150hp 0r 200hp the fuel needs to be no more than 6psi! and no less than 5.5! we run 5.75lbs of fuel pressure with all our systems and never a problem! try this and let me know how it turns out

 

also you should be flowing the n20 thru a 70 jet. do not run the other side of the reg back to the tank keep it block off or ran to a gauge.

 

did you run the car on motor yet? if so, it left the hole perfect?
it sounds to me like the car may have an issue other then the fuel noid. i ran my old NOSzle kit for 3 seasons same way you are set up. i didnt run a return untill 2 seasons ago and i never had an issue.
what rpm are you leaving at?

i cant wait to hit mine with 200 or more.

 

First off.. Every car is different and some will like more fuel than others.. Second.. Not everyone runs the same jet configuration to get 100/150/200/250hp.. So some will need more or less fuel then others..

 

Yes, I have ran it on motor, it leaves the same it always does, like a turd, haha, but normal, this was not just a bog, it was breaking up and dying popping and dying like it was just flooding, so I think the nitrous noid is having an issue, i'm replacing it tonight and gonna try and get back to the track asap, if that doesn't fix it, i'll bypass the controller and see if the controller is somehow causing it. It gets up to 3800 - 4000 on the brake.

 

just tryin to help....ive worked at a hop here for the last 5yrs and i have ran every n20 kit ive ever built the same way and never had an issue. just give what im telling yu a try. UIT WILL WORK BETTER!! i promise

 

if that doesnt totally fix ur problem give me a call while ur at the track i have an idea ...

 

K, thanks dude, i'm also gonna rewire the controller before I go just to make sure it's not that, gonna run the power and the ground right off the battery with 10 gauge wire just in case it's somehow not getting enough power or ground right now, gonna go over all my bases, shootin for friday.

 

i bet its in the controller. i ran my noids that way and never had an issue.
let us know

 

Didn't you run a return when you had your stand-alone with that regulator?

 

only after you helped me put one on. for 3 years or so with my 346 and 402 i never ran one

 

i accually still dont run one now

 

yeah, but you have a reutrn style regulator now.

 

true, but either way i didnt have it like that for a while and never had an issue. its all the fancy control crap that screws it up usually