Detonation Sucks
Other than needing travel limiters
the car has been running really well. finally getting it to hook up. this was a 1.34 60'
my buddy melted EVERYTHING i meen so bad it pretty much welded the plugs inside the head. we had to pull the heads and re tap holes!! and everything on top looked good and he ran it the rest of the season and it didnt loose anything.
then ive seen plugs come out just barly touched, but the pistion has a hole in it
Mine did the same **** earlier this year on the 150 shot... I believe the NANO regulator is what caused mine as the pressure jumped to 1400 psi.
Plugs 3, 5, and 6 here.
And please stop spraying on tr6 plugs... for the last time. #7 or greater unless it's a stock car with a 100 shot, in that case they are fine. Any more then that, please go to a #7 or higher (colder heat range)
The Best V8 Stories One Small Block at Time
And please stop spraying on tr6 plugs... for the last time. #7 or greater unless it's a stock car with a 100 shot, in that case they are fine. Any more then that, please go to a #7 or higher (colder heat range)
So, I am going to buy some TR-7's (NGK BR7EF is the part number I found) and install them for the track next week when i throw the 175 shot back in the car and shoot for a low 10 sec pass. So, thanks on the heads up. Hey, so what gap you recommend on the TR-7s??
Apparently the NANO regulator got damaged when filling up the N20 bottle the day before. So, they recommend to simply disconnect the hose so no back pressure travels up to it. Im assuming the check valve got stuck open for a brief moment.
So, I am going to buy some TR-7's (NGK BR7EF is the part number I found) and install them for the track next week when i throw the 175 shot back in the car and shoot for a low 10 sec pass. So, thanks on the heads up. Hey, so what gap you recommend on the TR-7s??
Apparently the NANO regulator got damaged when filling up the N20 bottle the day before. So, they recommend to simply disconnect the hose so no back pressure travels up to it. Im assuming the check valve got stuck open for a brief moment.
That being said, get some autolite AR 3933's, and put them in at the track (after the car is warmed up) and pull all of them after one run, see what they look like, if all is good put them back in, run again and then pull again and look.
They are a cold #9 plug, and will probably foul out if you try to cold start the car with them, but one thing I am sure of , running a plug that's too cold isn't gonna hurt stuff, running too hot of one, that's a recipe for disaster.
If you don't want to go that cold, AR 3934, that is a #8. I have had very good luck with them, been running these plugs (the #8 n/a, the #9 and now the #10 with nitrous) for over a year, and have had nothing but good to say. NO extended tips = good thing
And do you know why they recommend different plugs/part numbers for AFR VS Dart heads? I have Dart heads.
LS1 Stock and AFR
Thread – 14mm
Reach - .708”
Socket – 5/8 hex
Seat - Taper
Stock Heat Range: 5
Gap: .060
Plug: NGK TR55 (stock number 3951); NGK TR55IX (stock number 7164); Autolite 764; Denso IT-16 (stock number 5325)
Nitrous (one step colder)
Heat Range: 6
Gap: .035 - .038
Plug: NGK TR6 (stock number 4177); NGK TR6IX (stock number 3689); Autolite 103; Denso IT-20 (stock number 5326)
Nitrous (two steps colder)
Heat Range: 7
Gap: Consult
Plug: NGK BR7EF (stock number 3346); NGK TR7IX (stock number 3690); Autolite AR94; Denso IT22 (stock number 5327)
Nitrous (two and a half steps colder)
Heat Range: 8
Gap: Consult
Plug: NGK R5724-8 (stock number 7317); NGK TR8IX (part number 3691); Denso IT-24 (stock number 5328)
Nitrous (three steps colder)
Heat Range: 9
Gap: Consult
Plug: NGK R5724-9 (stock number 7891); Autolite AR93; Denso IT-27
Nitrous (four steps colder)
Heat Range: 10
Gap: Consult
Plug: NGK R5724-10 (stock number 7993); Autolite AR92
LS1 w/ Edelbrock and Dart Heads
Thread – 14mm
Reach – 3/4”
Socket – 5/8 hex
Seat – Gasket
Stock – MFG Recommendations: approx under 9:1 compression
Heat Range: 4
Gap: Consult ignition mfg.
Plug: NGK FR4 (stock number 5155); NGK BKR5EIX (stock number 6341); Autolite 3926; Champion RC12YC (stock number 71); Denso IK16 (stock number 5303)
MFG Recommendations: approx 10.5:1 compression
Heat Range: 5
Gap: Consult ignition mfg.
Plug: NGK FR5 (stock number 7373); Autolite AR3924 (Racing Plug); Autolite 3924; Champion RC9YC (stock number 2075); Denso K20PR-U (stock number 3145); Denso IK20 (stock number 5304)
MFG Recommendations: approx 11:1 compression
Heat Range: 8
Gap: Consult ignition mfg.
Plug: NGK R5672A-8 (stock number 7173); Autolite AR3911; Champion C63YC (stock number 796); Denso IQ24 (stock number 5314)
MFG Recommendations: approx 12:1 compression
Heat Range: 9
Gap: Consult ignition mfg.
Plug: NGK R5672A-9 (stock number 7405); Autolite AR3910; Champion C61YC (stock number 785); Denso IQ27 (stock number 5315)
MFG Recommendations: approx 13:1 compression
Heat Range: 9 - 10
Gap: Consult ignition mfg.
Plug: NGK R5671A-9 (stock number 5238); Autolite AR3933; Champion C59CX (stock number 296); Denso IK27 (stock number 5312)
MFG Recommendations: approx 14:1 compression
Heat Range: 10
Gap: Consult ignition mfg.
Plug: NGK R5671A-10 (stock number 5820); Autolite AR3932; Champion C57CX (stock number 295); Denso IK-31 (stock number 5321)
**NOTE: Use chart for static compression and adjust heat range for nitrous use accordingly.
Call me later and let me know how it goes! And do you know why they recommend different plugs/part numbers for AFR VS Dart heads? I have Dart heads.
LS1 Stock and AFR
Thread – 14mm
Reach - .708”
Socket – 5/8 hex
Seat - Taper
Stock Heat Range: 5
Gap: .060
Plug: NGK TR55 (stock number 3951); NGK TR55IX (stock number 7164); Autolite 764; Denso IT-16 (stock number 5325)
Nitrous (one step colder)
Heat Range: 6
Gap: .035 - .038
Plug: NGK TR6 (stock number 4177); NGK TR6IX (stock number 3689); Autolite 103; Denso IT-20 (stock number 5326)
Nitrous (two steps colder)
Heat Range: 7
Gap: Consult
Plug: NGK BR7EF (stock number 3346); NGK TR7IX (stock number 3690); Autolite AR94; Denso IT22 (stock number 5327)
Nitrous (two and a half steps colder)
Heat Range: 8
Gap: Consult
Plug: NGK R5724-8 (stock number 7317); NGK TR8IX (part number 3691); Denso IT-24 (stock number 5328)
Nitrous (three steps colder)
Heat Range: 9
Gap: Consult
Plug: NGK R5724-9 (stock number 7891); Autolite AR93; Denso IT-27
Nitrous (four steps colder)
Heat Range: 10
Gap: Consult
Plug: NGK R5724-10 (stock number 7993); Autolite AR92
LS1 w/ Edelbrock and Dart Heads
Thread – 14mm
Reach – 3/4”
Socket – 5/8 hex
Seat – Gasket
Stock – MFG Recommendations: approx under 9:1 compression
Heat Range: 4
Gap: Consult ignition mfg.
Plug: NGK FR4 (stock number 5155); NGK BKR5EIX (stock number 6341); Autolite 3926; Champion RC12YC (stock number 71); Denso IK16 (stock number 5303)
MFG Recommendations: approx 10.5:1 compression
Heat Range: 5
Gap: Consult ignition mfg.
Plug: NGK FR5 (stock number 7373); Autolite AR3924 (Racing Plug); Autolite 3924; Champion RC9YC (stock number 2075); Denso K20PR-U (stock number 3145); Denso IK20 (stock number 5304)
MFG Recommendations: approx 11:1 compression
Heat Range: 8
Gap: Consult ignition mfg.
Plug: NGK R5672A-8 (stock number 7173); Autolite AR3911; Champion C63YC (stock number 796); Denso IQ24 (stock number 5314)
MFG Recommendations: approx 12:1 compression
Heat Range: 9
Gap: Consult ignition mfg.
Plug: NGK R5672A-9 (stock number 7405); Autolite AR3910; Champion C61YC (stock number 785); Denso IQ27 (stock number 5315)
MFG Recommendations: approx 13:1 compression
Heat Range: 9 - 10
Gap: Consult ignition mfg.
Plug: NGK R5671A-9 (stock number 5238); Autolite AR3933; Champion C59CX (stock number 296); Denso IK27 (stock number 5312)
MFG Recommendations: approx 14:1 compression
Heat Range: 10
Gap: Consult ignition mfg.
Plug: NGK R5671A-10 (stock number 5820); Autolite AR3932; Champion C57CX (stock number 295); Denso IK-31 (stock number 5321)
**NOTE: Use chart for static compression and adjust heat range for nitrous use accordingly.
The autolite AR 3910 is what I would use. It is a nascar style plug with a cut back ground srap that is a little stronger, so they will take 2 runs to really show the heat, I would start off with the #8 ngk plug because it will show heat after one run alot better, but once you know your tuneup is good then go to the autolite plug, they don't seem to foul as bad, the tips aren't protruded, that type of thing.
I don't know what ya have for compression, but I look at it like this:
11 to 1 or over n/a #6
11 to 1 with 100 shot #7
11 to 1 with 200 shot #8
11 to 1 with 300+ #9
once you get to 13 to 1, I'd go to a #7 n/a, and for 100 shot a #8, 200 a #9, etc.etc.
Personally, I'm on a 13.5 to 1 compression motor, and am running a 150 shot, I run a #9 plug. I'm gonna start playing with the jetting a little, therefore I got some #10 plugs for a little added safety net.
Each heat range you go down lowers the combustion chamber temps by about 100 degrees (rough rule of thumb) so that may be enough to save you from some damage. Noone ever hurt anything from running too cold a plug, ya just foul them out easier.
I gap everything at 35, gap them too tight and the car gets a little harder to start and whatnot, plus this is a way to be consistant to see what just the plug change does.
I dunno about running different plugs in different heads, I'm running ET heads and am running the AR 3933 normally, and have some AR 3932's to go to for my next outing/testing session.
Thanks for your input. Ill call around and see if I can locate some TR-8's then.. I was pulling 5* out as well, that good enough?
Last edited by waterbug1999; Sep 12, 2008 at 05:36 PM.
The 1/8 was ok down about 1 mph then it layed down hard on the big end, only trapped 135. It didnt show lean on the logs. Next pass it goes lean and detonates HARD. It appears the fuel pump layed down on me, I changed the pump but I cant try it until I get some more plugs they will be here tomorow. I cant believe that there are no signs that I pushed any water. How the heads didnt lift I will never now. Cometics dumdumdum. I wont know for sure until I lean on it again but every other time I lifted a head I new right away. I never heard it detonate like that before. Funny part is it idled fine with the plugs toasted. Sorry the pics a little blurry.

If possible, use a leaded fuel. I know the O2's don't like it, just tune the car in open loop and turn them all off, no more problems there, and I assume that you have no cats on the car so that doesn't matter either.
You can never hurt anything running too good a fuel.





