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Old Sep 16, 2008 | 05:59 PM
  #41  
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Originally Posted by JL ws-6
Thanks for explaining it Steve.

I can get 2 runs with the 150 shot off a 10 lb'er and they're both good, the 3rd I haven't tried, but I suspect it will be weak.

15 lb'ers, I think at a 200 hit I should be able to get 3 runs, the 10 lb'er's I bet the 2nd run gets weak.

I don't have a problem heating them now, as you said in the summer it's fine, but a night race (like pinks was) and in the fall it can be a problem. This Friday I have a rental day I'm going to, it's supposed to be a high of 63. That means it's gonna be about 40 when I get there, so it's a little more of a PITA. All the bottles will be in the truck for the ride up, one on the floor with the heater blowing on it on the ride there (takes about an hour and 45 min), at least one will be warm when we get there.
.........
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Old Sep 16, 2008 | 06:26 PM
  #42  
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You should be able to get 3-4 runs on a 150 shot
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Old Sep 16, 2008 | 08:28 PM
  #43  
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I've never tried it to be honest. I may this Friday just to see if it stays up to speed, but I know that after one run, with a decent purge (not a HUGE purge, but enough to clear the line out good) it somes in about 2 lbs light. So if I go thru 2 to 2.5 lbs a run, that would put the bottle at or less then 1/2 full after the 2nd run.

At what point the bottles start to run weaker I dunno, I've never really pushed it to find out.
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Old Sep 16, 2008 | 08:54 PM
  #44  
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Originally Posted by ShiznityZ28
Thats definatly wrong. the size of the bottle will not determine this "pop" LOL the pressure and available luquid nitrous would. if it takes longer to warm a 15 it will stay warmer longer for the same reason. If you just run some hot water over them before leaving they tend to stay warm for a while also....

You are absolutely right...I should have frazed that differently... I meant it's alot more challenging to heat the 15lb bottles with the normal heating elements compared to a 10lb bottles.. Aleast that is the case with my heating core.. I'm going back to the 10lb bottles for that reason alone... Or getting another heating element in addition to the one I have now....

This wrap worked wonders on the 10lb bottle but not so good with the 15lb bottle. This pic is of the my 15lb and electric heating wrap... I'm lucky if I can get it to 900psi, same heater core on a 10lb bottle 1200psi easy in 15 minutes time....
Attached Thumbnails extreme bottle pressure!-hpim0796.jpg  
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Old Sep 16, 2008 | 09:01 PM
  #45  
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Get one of the dynotune high output ones. It works a TON better then that one you have, I have had both, and the dynotune one works way WAY better. But, be careful because you can kill a battery with it, I did that too LOL
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Old Sep 17, 2008 | 07:46 AM
  #46  
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THer key is to egt it hot before putting it in the car. run your cars heater( vents on it) on the way to the track . put it behind the exhaust or run it under hot water . once its hot it stays hot pretty good if you wrap it with a blanket.
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Old Sep 17, 2008 | 10:37 AM
  #47  
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Shiz - that's some inovative thinking....

However, Too much work and danger putting a bottle near the hot rear exhaust pipes, also running hot water on the bottle prior to racing just woundn't be practical. Lastly venting your cars heater to directly hit the bottle itself, is just too much work..... Good thinking though, that's how new ideas are created...

How about mounting the bottle in the engine compartment next to the super hot headers.. Better yet cut a hole out of bottom of your driverside seat cushion and fit the bottle somehow beneathe you, put a very thin layer of cushion and cover it.. It's going to be hard seat to sit on but racing cars aren't suppose to be comfortable....Then before racing eat some taco bell bean burrito's, some broccolli and raw garlic and go to work on the bottle.... Ha Ha... Rolling down the windows for fresh air could potentially cool the bottle though.... Getting a bit silly niow, soooo sarrry...

I think I will stick to additional heating bottle wrap..
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