Cant understand why....
Cant understand why.... My kit is not working....I have a EFI wet kit, msd window switch, FPSS, WOT, Just replaced the relay too. NX recomends 40/60 so i got it. When i take the nitrous line off the nozzle and rev the car to 3000 and push the wot switch the nitrous comes out in sperts not a constent spray is the right? Iv had a few buddies tell me the main line/selanoid may be pluged up. 
PLEASE HELP, im pose to rerace a t76 supra this weekend and hes already walked me pretty good from a 60 roll 
PLEASE HELP, im pose to rerace a t76 supra this weekend and hes already walked me pretty good from a 60 roll A few questions.
Did you purge first?
Did you make a longer line between the noid and the nozzle?
Does the solenoid click/flicker as its surging?
Dumb question, but is the bottle full and mounted correctly?
Did you purge first?
Did you make a longer line between the noid and the nozzle?
Does the solenoid click/flicker as its surging?
Dumb question, but is the bottle full and mounted correctly?
Bypass the POS MSD box and I bet it starts working. Also try jumping the FPSS, see if that might be the culprit. As 860 asks,When it sprays intermittantly is the noid fluttering, or just the actual spray?
[QUOTE=860 Performance;10207475]A few questions.
Did you purge first?
Yes
Did you make a longer line between the noid and the nozzle?
No, what will it do?
Does the solenoid click/flicker as its surging?
I actually havent heard anything except the purge relay.
Dumb question, but is the bottle full and mounted correctly?
It is full, My bottle is at a 45 degree or more with the main line coming out the bottom.
Did you purge first?
Yes
Did you make a longer line between the noid and the nozzle?
No, what will it do?
Does the solenoid click/flicker as its surging?
I actually havent heard anything except the purge relay.
Dumb question, but is the bottle full and mounted correctly?
It is full, My bottle is at a 45 degree or more with the main line coming out the bottom.
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Its probley something simple..
First make sure the bottle pressure is above 900 psi. Otherwise it will not flow steady.
If you have a Fuel pressure safety switch bypass it for testing as long as you are just flowing into the air. If the problem goes away you need to adjust the fuel pressure safety switch.
Make sure the RPM mode on the wiondowswitch is set correctly on the windowswitch.
Dave
First make sure the bottle pressure is above 900 psi. Otherwise it will not flow steady.
If you have a Fuel pressure safety switch bypass it for testing as long as you are just flowing into the air. If the problem goes away you need to adjust the fuel pressure safety switch.
Make sure the RPM mode on the wiondowswitch is set correctly on the windowswitch.
Dave
Any luck bypassing the fpss?
Nick
Ok iv finally had time to work on the car. I have done all the ideas you guys have posted, everything checked out ok. So i figured id go out and do a couple test runs. Bottle pressure was 1150-1200, window switch is set to come on at 2700rpms and go off at 6200rpms. Now it seems that it works, but feels likes its cutting out(i feel it, then i dont, then i do). Im still confused on what would be making this happen? Any other suggestions would be great. Thanks and sorry for the long post.
Ok if Rpm is matching the point that activation hits with the windowswitch then you can scratch that part.
Now on the FPSS. It may be just close enough that it works on a bench flow but on the car under a load your fuel pressure may drop just enough to flutter the FPSS.
I would suggest checking that first.
Other things to check are wiring connections and wire gauge size..
Dave
Now on the FPSS. It may be just close enough that it works on a bench flow but on the car under a load your fuel pressure may drop just enough to flutter the FPSS.
I would suggest checking that first.
Other things to check are wiring connections and wire gauge size..
Dave