Shock question
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Shock question I'm curious about something here, thought I'd try you locals before I try the tech section.
I'm trying to make the camaro nice to drive on the street, roughly stock, but able to be adjusted quickly at the track for good launches with the 5-speed and DR's. I can't afford qa1 goods, nor have I read much good about them on the street. Here's my idea, kyb gr2's on the front, and some acdelco air-adjustable rears. The ac's are made for towing, but I could air them up at different pressures to get a good launch, then deflate them for a soft ride on the street. Or should I do agx's all around, and a drag bag? Other ideas? I'm able to cut a 1.8 60's with the sixxer, and it'll be running in the 12's when I get the supercharger fitted in late august. Need some suspension work to get it where I want with my lack for power/torque, lol.
I'm running strano-bilsteins all around right now, and a ws6 front bar with a 17mm rear bar. I would sell the shocks since they only have 2 oil changes on them. I set the suspension up for auto-x, but I've yet to go cone diving, nor do I see myself doing it any time soon since I like doing club cruises and bracket racing instead. Also going to get a tunnel mounted tq arm to protect my little borg warner t5 (looking at the non adjustable jegster), and some poly ended lca's since I'm getting some hop still with my stockers stuffed with moog solid rubber bushings.
Help from you go fast fellows please
I'm trying to make the camaro nice to drive on the street, roughly stock, but able to be adjusted quickly at the track for good launches with the 5-speed and DR's. I can't afford qa1 goods, nor have I read much good about them on the street. Here's my idea, kyb gr2's on the front, and some acdelco air-adjustable rears. The ac's are made for towing, but I could air them up at different pressures to get a good launch, then deflate them for a soft ride on the street. Or should I do agx's all around, and a drag bag? Other ideas? I'm able to cut a 1.8 60's with the sixxer, and it'll be running in the 12's when I get the supercharger fitted in late august. Need some suspension work to get it where I want with my lack for power/torque, lol.
I'm running strano-bilsteins all around right now, and a ws6 front bar with a 17mm rear bar. I would sell the shocks since they only have 2 oil changes on them. I set the suspension up for auto-x, but I've yet to go cone diving, nor do I see myself doing it any time soon since I like doing club cruises and bracket racing instead. Also going to get a tunnel mounted tq arm to protect my little borg warner t5 (looking at the non adjustable jegster), and some poly ended lca's since I'm getting some hop still with my stockers stuffed with moog solid rubber bushings.
Help from you go fast fellows please
I think once you get some lca's,relocation brackets,panhard bar, and tq arm you should have no problem hookin with some sticky tires. I prefer umi adj suspension myself! If you do get new shocks Elliott94z has been looking for a set of those bilsteins.
I have a few parts you might want if you go that route.
-Drag Bag /w hardware (lightly used)
-Poly LCA's. These are stock arms that have been boxed/welded for strength, and they have poly ends installed. These solved all my wheel hop issues from way bitd. Only reason I'm not using them now is because I needed some that I could adjust the length.
I would dissconnect that front sway bar for drag events. Anything you can do to get the front to come up quicker will help your launches. Maybe incorporate a quick dis-connect to the sway bar to make it easier to do at the track. I know the 4-wheeler guys have these for their rigs, maybe you could use something like that?
As for shocks, the fronts will need as little rebound dampening as possible, again to get that front to lift easier. I'm not too familiar with any of those that you listed.
Getting that T/A off the back of the trans is a great idea, especially on a T5. What rear gear ratio does your six have?
What kind of a tire do you plan to run on the back? Slick, DR or street tire? I have some 26-10.50-15 ET Streets I'll be listing for sale this spring. They have about 60-70% left on them. I'd make you a good deal if you're interested.
Mike
-Drag Bag /w hardware (lightly used)
-Poly LCA's. These are stock arms that have been boxed/welded for strength, and they have poly ends installed. These solved all my wheel hop issues from way bitd. Only reason I'm not using them now is because I needed some that I could adjust the length.
I would dissconnect that front sway bar for drag events. Anything you can do to get the front to come up quicker will help your launches. Maybe incorporate a quick dis-connect to the sway bar to make it easier to do at the track. I know the 4-wheeler guys have these for their rigs, maybe you could use something like that?
As for shocks, the fronts will need as little rebound dampening as possible, again to get that front to lift easier. I'm not too familiar with any of those that you listed.
Getting that T/A off the back of the trans is a great idea, especially on a T5. What rear gear ratio does your six have?
What kind of a tire do you plan to run on the back? Slick, DR or street tire? I have some 26-10.50-15 ET Streets I'll be listing for sale this spring. They have about 60-70% left on them. I'd make you a good deal if you're interested.
Mike
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I've got the wrong tires for the manual trans, or so I'm told (new to drag racing with a stick). I've got a set of mickey t dr's on some stock 16" bird wheels, I should've went with a bias ply I'm told. These tires are tricky, if I break loose at the light, it stays spinning and loves to hop. But if it dead hooks, I bog. Need to keep the wheel speed up out of the hole, but not a burnout contest of course. Slicks would be to tacky for my tiny power plant I think. Going to have Ott's Friction build me a disk to use with my stock-replacement pressure plate, I like my pedal feel, but it's slipping. Might make the launch less of a headache.
Gears in it now are 4.10's, auborn posi with worn clutches, need to find a different diff, but the one I want is expensive.
What's the reasoning behind disconnecting the front bar? I've read about people removing it, but I was always under the impression that they were cutting weight. Must have to do with how the car transfers weight. I know what you're referring to with the disconnects, was going to get some for my old 79 cherokee before I sold it. Might have to look into making a set for the Camaro.
Might have to snag those LCA's from you, need to make up my mind on the shocks before I get a bag though. I want to run a set of shocks all around that will be durable enough for the street, handle at least as well as factory, but still work well for drag (obviously making a sacrifice since the car is a driver).
Gears in it now are 4.10's, auborn posi with worn clutches, need to find a different diff, but the one I want is expensive.
What's the reasoning behind disconnecting the front bar? I've read about people removing it, but I was always under the impression that they were cutting weight. Must have to do with how the car transfers weight. I know what you're referring to with the disconnects, was going to get some for my old 79 cherokee before I sold it. Might have to look into making a set for the Camaro.
Might have to snag those LCA's from you, need to make up my mind on the shocks before I get a bag though. I want to run a set of shocks all around that will be durable enough for the street, handle at least as well as factory, but still work well for drag (obviously making a sacrifice since the car is a driver).
Yeah, DR's and stick cars don't play well together. Just as you said, a DR will keep spinning violently once it slips, where as a sticky bias tire will spin, but still have gobs more traction than a spinning DR. You want a bias tire with a stiff sidewall, and the more sidewall you have the better. MT makes some stiff sidewall slicks, and it's what I hope to be using this next season. As for not having enough power for the slicks, you should be there with the blower. Just adjust the tire pressure up until she starts to spin a bit.
The front sway bar has resistance against the rubber bushings on the chassis. This delays the response of the front end coming up. Any little bit helps, plus ditching the front sway also loses weight if it's completely gone. Any weight reduction off the nose is usually a good thing,,,, up to a point. Unless you're really into cornering, you probably won't even notice the front sway bar being gone. I haven't had one in my car since early 2000.
You can have those lca's if you want them. Consider it part of my "pay it forward" for 2010 lol..... If you want the bag, how about 30.00?
Mike
The front sway bar has resistance against the rubber bushings on the chassis. This delays the response of the front end coming up. Any little bit helps, plus ditching the front sway also loses weight if it's completely gone. Any weight reduction off the nose is usually a good thing,,,, up to a point. Unless you're really into cornering, you probably won't even notice the front sway bar being gone. I haven't had one in my car since early 2000.
You can have those lca's if you want them. Consider it part of my "pay it forward" for 2010 lol.....
If you want the bag, how about 30.00?Mike
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I might try to sell these tires then, they've only got 10 passes on them. But I would probably end up buying a tire that will still fit the wheels I have, can't afford new ones. Also want a DOT tire. Might also try a 27" or 28" tall one, these are 26". A taller tire would give me more sidewall, and make the 4.10's less of a headache to launch with. Have to look around and see what my options are.
I'll probably keep some kind of bar on the front, just never know when I might need to make a maneuver on I5 do avoid the common idiot out there. It's my driver in the summer months, though that may change after someone smeared across my back bumper in the parking lot a few months ago.
Let me think on the arms and bag, need to get a game plan arranged first. As you can see, the car is a bit scattered in a build direction, and I'm the one that bought all the crap on it
I'll probably keep some kind of bar on the front, just never know when I might need to make a maneuver on I5 do avoid the common idiot out there. It's my driver in the summer months, though that may change after someone smeared across my back bumper in the parking lot a few months ago.
Let me think on the arms and bag, need to get a game plan arranged first. As you can see, the car is a bit scattered in a build direction, and I'm the one that bought all the crap on it
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I can afford these, DOT legal, bias ply, and they'll fit on my bird rims. Still 26" though. Also have a guy in the club that will buy my mt dr's. Other tire ideas that will work with my 16" stockers?
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/MTT-3792/?image=large
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/MTT-3792/?image=large
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Those are the tires Mikey has to sell but set for a 15" rim. And I have the 15" rims that some of those use to be mounted to, before selling them to Mikey. I would let the rims go to you for $30 for the pair. I use to have these on my 95 Z28. You can ask Mikey..... they are lighter than they look too.
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What size are those? Backspacing looks interesting, would they stick out of the wheel well at all? For the price, I can't argue, that's for sure. I've seen a few f-bodies with the rears sticking out at woodburn, if they fit right I'll take them as soon as possible.
Last edited by musicman; Dec 27, 2009 at 09:50 PM.
Yes they do stick out a little. About flush with the body. You can go to www.rockincracing.com and on the left click on 95 Camaro and you can see a couple of pics with those wheels and the ET Streets on the car.
edit for size - If I remember correctly they are 15"x8" with either 4 or 4 1/2" back spacing. I have a couple more pictures on my home computer showing all the measurements.
edit for size - If I remember correctly they are 15"x8" with either 4 or 4 1/2" back spacing. I have a couple more pictures on my home computer showing all the measurements.
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They should work for starters at least, I'm going to put the tires off the mustang on them to see how it launches with a slick, was going to junk the tires anywho since they're kind of old and worn. If it works good, I'll start investing in welds all around and ditch my heavy skinny centerline fronts and get some bias tires to match.
I'm open all week, what day could I drop by to pick them up?
I'm open all week, what day could I drop by to pick them up?
I work 8-5 for Bonneville Power here in Vancouver. What ever works for you. I'm available at night and work is flexible enough that I could bring them with me and meet you somewhere, or you could meet me at my work. My work is near Van Mall (7500 NE 41st Street). Let me know.
Cody
Cody
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Do you know where the red lion at the quay is? It's the red lion hotel on the washington side of the river, next to the I5 bridge. That's about an hour drive for me, and pretty easy to get to. Not sure how far it is from your work though. Would Wednesday night after you get off work be ok?
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I have KYB's all around with a 26in tall tire, no sway bar up front. however I'm an auto best 60 is a 1.69, with an average of a 1.72ish. Stock torque, pan rod. KYB's set at 8 in the rear 6 on the fronts. Hope this helps.
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