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Old Jan 7, 2010 | 12:52 AM
  #41  
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Originally Posted by smokinponcho73
I ran 12.0 on street tires and stock gears. With my 9" and some MT's Im hoping to get kicked off the track and some.
Your gona have fun this summer!! whats the motor spec's I know it sounds NICE
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Old Jan 7, 2010 | 01:29 PM
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Originally Posted by musicman
Mike, how bad is the twisting? I know that on my uncle's 8 second ranger that he freaked when he saw the axle splines twisted. But the shop that made them said they were supposed to do that, and once they do, they would stay there since that's where the metal "wanted" to be. Not sure if it's a similar case, kind of curious I guess.
If the axles were twisting I wouldn't be too concerned, depending how bad they were. But with the yoke on the driveshaft, once they twist, it limits the travel of the yoke slipping on the splines which will eventually limit suspension movement. From what I've been reading, the forged Spicer yoke doesn't hold up to a clutch car with slicks very well. Looks like I need to step up to a billet yoke. I'm going to be calling Eric at MWC and see what he says. He's the one that told me this driveshaft would be plenty strong for my setup, and well into the 9's.

Mike
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Old Jan 7, 2010 | 04:41 PM
  #43  
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Ah, I understand now. Didn't consider the movement of the yoke, which is why I was curious.
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Old Jan 7, 2010 | 06:36 PM
  #44  
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Originally Posted by jsafe
Your gona have fun this summer!! whats the motor spec's I know it sounds NICE
408 with the MS4 and 243's full bolt on's but it's heavy and with a m6 not as quick as you A4 guy's.
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Old Jan 7, 2010 | 07:24 PM
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I cant wait to see you run Brandon! Gonna be some good 4thgen fbody rep in 2k10!!
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Old Jan 7, 2010 | 09:09 PM
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Yes it's going to be a bad *** year!!! Those pics you put up phill, SICK!!! Can't wait to go up there again. So is everyone down to cruise to woodburn this year?
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Old Jan 8, 2010 | 01:05 AM
  #47  
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Originally Posted by smokinponcho73
408 with the MS4 and 243's full bolt on's but it's heavy and with a m6 not as quick as you A4 guy's.
Any head porting... which spings did you use?

that is a big cam...sounds big too... I am thinkin about a 230ish at .050.. 580-600 lft, 114/112 lsa... idk though first LS1 for me

Last edited by jsafe; Jan 8, 2010 at 01:15 AM.
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Old Jan 8, 2010 | 08:22 AM
  #48  
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Yeah that is a big cam!! But sounds sooooo good!!!.. I'm going to go with the MS3 cam just a step smaller I think it has a lift of .604 to .609 and going to go with a lsa of 112
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Old Jan 8, 2010 | 12:39 PM
  #49  
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If I could get Brandon into a set of TFS 235 heads (or AFR 225's) and one of our custom cams we could get him into the 10's
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Old Jan 8, 2010 | 12:44 PM
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Originally Posted by jsafe
that is a big cam...sounds big too... I am thinkin about a 230ish at .050.. 580-600 lft, 114/112 lsa... idk though first LS1 for me
I was running a 236/236 .585/585 112lsa cam last year and it worked ok for me. I think you'd like a cam in the 230's. It worked well with some cathedral port heads, and also seemed to run good with my L92 heads. Too bad that broken rod took out a couple of the lobes or I'd still be using it.

If you're gonna run the spray alot, look for a wide lsa in the 114-116 range. You'll also want it to be at least 6 degrees larger on the exhaust duration, maybe even more.

Mike
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Old Jan 8, 2010 | 12:45 PM
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Originally Posted by 99blancoSS
If I could get Brandon into a set of TFS 235 heads (or AFR 225's) and one of our custom cams we could get him into the 10's
Those would be sick on his setup!!
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Old Jan 8, 2010 | 05:39 PM
  #52  
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Originally Posted by Mikey 97Z M6
I was running a 236/236 .585/585 112lsa cam last year and it worked ok for me. I think you'd like a cam in the 230's. It worked well with some cathedral port heads, and also seemed to run good with my L92 heads. Too bad that broken rod took out a couple of the lobes or I'd still be using it.

If you're gonna run the spray alot, look for a wide lsa in the 114-116 range. You'll also want it to be at least 6 degrees larger on the exhaust duration, maybe even more.

Mike
I am thinking about cnc port 243's. and
LUNATI 60512
Duration:232@.050"
Exhaust Duration:238@.050"
Intake Lift.599
Exhaust Lift:.601
LSA 113°
or
Patriot 225/229
Duration: 225 @.050"
Exhaust Duration: 229 @.050"
Intake Lift: .580"
Exhaust Lift: .590"
LSA: 114+4

I have seen cars over camed.. how do these spec's hit ya?
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Old Jan 8, 2010 | 06:35 PM
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Originally Posted by tmoney223
Yes it's going to be a bad *** year!!! Those pics you put up phill, SICK!!! Can't wait to go up there again. So is everyone down to cruise to woodburn this year?
ive kinda been wanting to go down there for a while. but its pretty far away for me to go.
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Old Jan 8, 2010 | 07:20 PM
  #54  
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Originally Posted by 99blancoSS
If I could get Brandon into a set of TFS 235 heads (or AFR 225's) and one of our custom cams we could get him into the 10's
Oh man chris If I could afford it I'd be all over some TFS 235's and a fast 92/92 setup with a rollbar, driveline and slicks. But I only make 24k a year and still have 9k left on my car to pay off. Actually that is kind of my list that I see neccecary for the next few years lol.
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Old Jan 9, 2010 | 12:30 PM
  #55  
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Originally Posted by jsafe
I am thinking about cnc port 243's. and
LUNATI 60512
Duration:232@.050"
Exhaust Duration:238@.050"
Intake Lift.599
Exhaust Lift:.601
LSA 113°
or
Patriot 225/229
Duration: 225 @.050"
Exhaust Duration: 229 @.050"
Intake Lift: .580"
Exhaust Lift: .590"
LSA: 114+4

I have seen cars over camed.. how do these spec's hit ya?
Didn't see you mention a stall converter, do you already have one or plan to get one? That second cam probably wouldn't 'need' a stall, but it would help if you don't have one already. If ya don't have a stall yet, wait til you pick a cam before choosing your stall.

I'd prefer that top cam myself (except ground on a 114or115 for nitrous) but I love a great top-end pull. I guess it kinda depends what you're after with the car. Are you street driving it? If so, how much and how much can you tolerate from a car with a larger cam? Being an automatic, if you had a stall you probably wouldn't notice the lope at low speeds much cuz the stall would soak it up.

Mike
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Old Jan 9, 2010 | 03:55 PM
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so i wana go with a 100 shot eventually. annd i plan on goin with the ms3 cam pretty soon. do i have to have the 114 lsa for a 100 shot?
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Old Jan 9, 2010 | 04:11 PM
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Originally Posted by 02sslayer
so i wana go with a 100 shot eventually. annd i plan on goin with the ms3 cam pretty soon. do i have to have the 114 lsa for a 100 shot?
No you don't. The wider lobe sep angle just optimizes the nitrous hit because there is less time between intake/exhaust valve events, which in turn keeps more of the nitrous in the combustion chamber. If you don't run nitrous in a drag racing class event, or not looking for every last tenth of a hp on the jug, don't worry about it. But, if you if are looking for every last hp you can get, and are looking at a custom cam to optimize the nitrous hit, look for an LSA of 114 or more. I believe you can order that MS3/4 cams on a 114 if you want.

Mike
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Old Jan 9, 2010 | 06:30 PM
  #58  
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I've got a nitrous cam in my sixxer, but I decided against it. lol, after the kit, the safety gear, tune, etc. I could buy everything for my supercharger, and there's nothing to refill then too. Was planning on spraying 150, but I'm too chicken, heh.
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Old Jan 9, 2010 | 06:54 PM
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Originally Posted by Mikey 97Z M6
Didn't see you mention a stall converter, do you already have one or plan to get one? That second cam probably wouldn't 'need' a stall, but it would help if you don't have one already. If ya don't have a stall yet, wait til you pick a cam before choosing your stall.

I'd prefer that top cam myself (except ground on a 114or115 for nitrous) but I love a great top-end pull. I guess it kinda depends what you're after with the car. Are you street driving it? If so, how much and how much can you tolerate from a car with a larger cam? Being an automatic, if you had a stall you probably wouldn't notice the lope at low speeds much cuz the stall would soak it up.

Mike
I bought the car from an older guy last april BONE Stock..so nothing yet...other than in my sig..To stall or not to stall... prolly will?? the jury is still out, because the car leaves hard on the spay as it is 1.6 1.7 60's nos coming in @1600-1700rpm's so am I wasting money and drivability to do so?? If I do stall I would go w/yank 3600 those are the ones I have been pricing.. so top cam w/stall bottom w/out? I only drive it in the summer.. its a toy. I only put 1200miles on it sense I got it and 100 was @ pir
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Old Jan 9, 2010 | 08:01 PM
  #60  
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Originally Posted by jsafe

I bought the car from an older guy last april BONE Stock..so nothing yet...other than in my sig..To stall or not to stall... prolly will?? the jury is still out, because the car leaves hard on the spay as it is 1.6 1.7 60's nos coming in @1600-1700rpm's so am I wasting money and drivability to do so?? If I do stall I would go w/yank 3600 those are the ones I have been pricing.. so top cam w/stall bottom w/out? I only drive it in the summer.. its a toy. I only put 1200miles on it sense I got it and 100 was @ pir
Well, 'if' the car can hook with with one, you will always 60' better with a stall, even when spraying. I think you're living on borrowed time spraying at such a low rpm. You're a brave man doing that on stock pistons. If it were my car I'd choose the larger cam and go with a stall which will let you spray out of the gate,,,,, but at a much safer/higher rpm. It will be much safer on your ringlands and connecting rods and you'll run a quicker ET.

Mike
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