my new build
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i gotta figure something out, i was dead set on the 454. lsx427 would be my third choice
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I did the 454LSX thing, unless they have absolutely perfected the bore stroke combo I would do the 427LSX instead. If I had done that I may still have my SS now. I remember thinking how COOL it would be to have a 454, it would have been almost as cool to have the 427...
so what exactly happened with your motor?
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i will be selling the LS1, motor has heads/cam fast and everything that goes with that. puts down 426 with ls6 intake and it sounds badass. motor has 68,xxx miles
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Really the 454 would blow the drag radials through a mod 9inch at 75 miles an hour like it was no big deal. THat was with crappy (by todays standards) heads. I doubt you'd miss those extra cubes on the street and casual ET racing. But I here you 454 LSX sounded sooooo sweet, I even had emblems made
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This!! I personally wouldn't use any engine combo with a 4.1" stroke crank. The piston goes down too far into the bore and rocks (no bore support), causing piston scuffing and oiling issues. The LSX block doesn't have a long bore anyway so this compounds the issue. Stick with a 4" stroke (427) like Bobby mentioned and you'll be just fine. If you want good power, invest in good heads. I remember helping ya install that 454 Bobby. What was that, 6-7 years ago? Hard to believe it's been that long.
Sleeving blocks has come a long way since my old Darton wet sleeved block was done (circa 2002?). ERL does an amazing job with the dry new sleeved blocks and I would take an ERL sleeved block over an LSX any day of the week.
Mike
Sleeving blocks has come a long way since my old Darton wet sleeved block was done (circa 2002?). ERL does an amazing job with the dry new sleeved blocks and I would take an ERL sleeved block over an LSX any day of the week.
Mike
Yep that is what happened to mine..ALOT of money gone and the new owner of the car paid to have the motor redone
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The bottom of the piston walls scraped and it went through oil, the new owner ended up building a very big bore short stroke motor out of it. If you want bigger you can go more bore to stroke than a 427 just keep the stroke at 4 inches max. The builder that did mine at the time was reputable and told me oh no you have nothing to worry about, then acted like it was my fault when it started drinking oil. It was a pretty bad experience and I was out of the "mod" game for awhile because of it.
Really the 454 would blow the drag radials through a mod 9inch at 75 miles an hour like it was no big deal. THat was with crappy (by todays standards) heads. I doubt you'd miss those extra cubes on the street and casual ET racing. But I here you 454 LSX sounded sooooo sweet, I even had emblems made
I have guys that have them PM asking about the oil consumption every once in awhile and its not a happy ending.
Really the 454 would blow the drag radials through a mod 9inch at 75 miles an hour like it was no big deal. THat was with crappy (by todays standards) heads. I doubt you'd miss those extra cubes on the street and casual ET racing. But I here you 454 LSX sounded sooooo sweet, I even had emblems made
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The issue isn't with the lsx block its the stroke being over 4" meaning the piston has to drop below the cylinder each stroke and it scars the pistons. I would say a 427 would be the way to go.
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i understand the 4.00 in stroke thing is causing the problem, but isent the other half of the problem something to do with the cylinder walls also being too short on the lsx block? it seems there is mixed reviews on the 454 engine, some people say they are garbage, others say they have had no problems with them at all..but its not something i really take a chance on.
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just talked to A guy at ERL and i like what he said, i feel alot better about having a 4.125 stroke after what he said:
Our sleeves are longer and are 5.800 sleeve length. With you supplying a good core LS2, LS3 or 5.3 block we have three options for you.
#1 - ERL Dry Sleeve 4.000 to 4.185 bore w/arp main studs, finish cylinder hone and align hone = 2250.00
#2 - ERL Superdeck 1 (4 bolt)4.000 to 4.200 bore w/doweled billet main caps, arp main studs, finish cylinder hone and align hone = 2900.00
#3 - ERL Superdeck 1 (6 bolt)4.000 to 4.200 bore w/doweled billet main caps, arp main studs, finish cylinder hone and align hone = 3500.00
Having ERL sleeve your block and honing it to get big cubes is not that expensive in relation to other options. We have plenty of core in stock that are already sleeved and cores you can just purchase outright if you don't have a core. Having us sleeve the aluminum LS OEM block also saves you a ton of weight and our cylinders are much stronger than the LSX iron block and RHS cast iron sleeve blocks.
Our turn around is pretty quick right now and is a great option. Just let us know how we can help. Thanks!
Our sleeves are longer and are 5.800 sleeve length. With you supplying a good core LS2, LS3 or 5.3 block we have three options for you.
#1 - ERL Dry Sleeve 4.000 to 4.185 bore w/arp main studs, finish cylinder hone and align hone = 2250.00
#2 - ERL Superdeck 1 (4 bolt)4.000 to 4.200 bore w/doweled billet main caps, arp main studs, finish cylinder hone and align hone = 2900.00
#3 - ERL Superdeck 1 (6 bolt)4.000 to 4.200 bore w/doweled billet main caps, arp main studs, finish cylinder hone and align hone = 3500.00
Having ERL sleeve your block and honing it to get big cubes is not that expensive in relation to other options. We have plenty of core in stock that are already sleeved and cores you can just purchase outright if you don't have a core. Having us sleeve the aluminum LS OEM block also saves you a ton of weight and our cylinders are much stronger than the LSX iron block and RHS cast iron sleeve blocks.
Our turn around is pretty quick right now and is a great option. Just let us know how we can help. Thanks!