Is that why they call this type of racing a "pre-paid speeding ticket" ?? Last year you paid your fee for only 107 mph ?? Boy you got ripped j/k It's a good thing they didn't catch you when you were going REALLY fast huh

Maybe not so easily since you have me to hound you Mark just take baby steps ...if you haven't already, make up a "short list" of the bare minimum of things you need to do to go. Then should time and $$ allow you can add from there. You might be surprised at how quickly it becomes a go. Most of the stuff are things you need to do anyway for the drag strip. That's why it would be particularly easy for Ellis. He's already got all the safety stuff done on his car. 1/2 day of suspension tweaking and he's in.

Remember you guys, I have a car trailer so you could drive your car down there and should something happen we could trailer your car back and drive mine ?

8 months and counting ...

 

And how many days are we alloting for the build-up and installation of a motor in his car?

 

Ummm another 1/2 a day ?? Hey Ellis you still have that $400 motor laying around ?

 

Actually, I have made my lists Bill, and for drag racing & showing I want / need to spend about $3k more this year. The total to get ready for the PE adds another $3k. And then there is the trailer.....& lapping day.....& the fee....& the hotel & gas....&....it adds up quick for this race! But then I don't go the cheap route either.

 

I'd love to do it, Too bad my cars a hunk of **** and I know something will go wrong. I'll go down with you guys though and bring my Pom Poms

 

Is there a site i can look at with faq's about things i will have to do to my car to keep it safe (i.e. not blow up?) at high speeds? I don't really foresee a problem in 6th gear at 80, but 4th gear at 100 is kinda scary for my car for prolonged times

 

actually im down. let me talk to the wife tomorrow about registering.

 

I don't know of a site that has faq's for setting your car up for high speed running. For one thing it varys between differant cars. You just have to talk to the guys who do it.
Here is as good a place as any to start. Those boys know how to go fast You're certainly welcome to ask me any questions that come to you. I don't know all the answers, but I know the guys who do. The biggest threat to your well being while running high speeds are your tires, and by default your suspension and alignment angles since they govern how much heat is generated in your tires as much as the speed does.

 

Clcik on the "Message Board" button on that site Bill linked to for the ORR Forum.

Where do you take your TA for alignments for this race Bill? And looking at what you said earlier, I should ask Boyce for my stock rear sway bar back to run this race with, eh?

 

Mark I take my car to a little out of the way place called "Virg's" that's owned by a red necked guy who does alot of the alignments for the local racers. He flat gets it right. And yes by all means get the stock bar back on your car before running the PE. The very last thing in this world you want on your car is a big rear bar when you're running thru high speed sweepers with dips in the middle of them. A bigger front bar would be helpful, but not necessary.

 

so here goes.

1. should i upgrade front swaybar?

2. I have slotted rotors (not drilled) brand new and quiet stop ceramic pads. Are these okay?

3. Which rollbar/cage should i look into? I'd rather get chromoly as i don't want the extra 20 lbs of steel

4. I have kumho ecsta 711 245/50r16 tires on right now, about 2 months old. ill look up the speed rating for em but would these be okay for the GT1 class?

5. is it reasonable to assume i'm okay to run in the GT1 class? Here are my mods...
98z28m6...TSP 233/239, ported ls6 oil pump, ls6 intake, u/d pulley, flowtech lt's, tsp true duals, hptuners.

6. What suspension components should i look to buy? any rear stuff worth buying? i.e. panhard, torque arm, etc.

7. lastly what am i looking at for fees and total entry into this class with a nav?

Thanks and sorry for the ???

Nate

 

Not necessary, however it would make your car feel a little better to go with something like the new hollow 35mm bar from Strano. It is far, FAR more important to have good shocks and springs on your car.

It really makes no differance what brakes you have on your car. At speed letting off the throttle is a little like popping a small chute anyway. In the case of a panic stop stock fbody brakes are good for at least one time ... and that's all you need.

Look at the safety specs on MKM's site and get whatever bar that meets those specs and mount it in the manner they describe, that's the best advice I can give you. Most bar manufacturers make at least one that's designed to meet spec.

I don't know anything about these tires to comment. As long as their speed rating meets or exceeds the minimum standards for your tech speed, and they are less than 4 years old, they should be fine. You might want to consider making sure they meet the standards for the next class up since that's where rookies usually wind up going and then you wouldn't have to buy new tires later ? BTW I have heard from many, and also found personally, that the stock F1 tires make exceptional ORR tires.

Your engine mods make no differance since I've shown that an internally stock LS1 "could" run well even in the SS class. I'm sure my car would go at least 175-176 mph flat out. If you ran in one of the faster classes ( 168+ tech speeds ) I would personally be concerned about the harsh ramp rates of that cam. You'd better make damn good and sure that your valve springs are capable of keeping things under control at sustained 6000 rpm running. The key here is "sustained". Just because it'll rev to 7k while going thru the gears once, it doesn't necessarily mean it'll be ok at sustained 6k. I'd talk to those who really know on this matter such as LG motorsports or EDC.

I did some extensive testing with my current springs and shocks, but otherwise the stock rear suspension components on a local road before my 1st ORR event. The high speed tail end wag that would occur was downright scary. Rod ended PHB and LCA's cured this trait and are worth more than what they cost IMO to an ORR car.

I think we came up with a figure of between $620 and $815 for a rookie. It's $125 less than that for a 2nd year guy because he can skip the 1 day "practice and instruction" school.

Feel free to ask whatever questions that you have. I wish I'd known someone when I was 1st setting my car up, it would've saved alot of time and frustration. For what it's worth, if I couldn't afford it any other way, I'd run a 100% stock 4th gen ( with a good alignment ) in the GT1 or GT2 class no problem It's just too much fun to NOT do

 

okay in regards to the above mentioned. What springs shocks should i look at? I have stock suspended f-body, and i will be dragging it as well as this race now it looks like. Is there an economic replacement shock and spring combo, or should i just look at shocks? I'd like to get off not spending more than 400 bucks if possible as it looks like ill be spending around 550 for a cage, 140 for phr, 220 for lca's and such. My tires are V rated so i believe thats good to 149 mph. I'll have to check when i get home.

What cage are you guys running? Or did you get a custom fabbed cage?

What shock/suspension setup are you running?

I'm running the PRC dual spring kit good to either .650 or something similar so i feel comfortable with the valvetrain. if anything i'll just get a few replacement springs when i go down there. Thoughts? Comments?

oh and i know this is off topic. if you want i can start another thread

Nate

 

This might be a good idea. Sorry Mark/Todd/Ellis etc etc for the hi-jack. I have a tendency to get carried away

 

Not at all....this is perfect.

Hey Bill, how many people are you hauling down there this year? I was thinking maybe if things get tight for me, that one of my tribe (me, Linda or my son) could snag a ride in your truck. (might even swap steering wheels with you for a while so you can see what a fast TA is like )Then the other 2 of us would drive the TA again. I'm hoping that my car will survive the 120 class, and won't 'need' a trailer.

 

Okay then ill repost my last post...here goes

okay in regards to the above mentioned. What springs shocks should i look at? I have stock suspended f-body, and i will be dragging it as well as this race now it looks like. Is there an economic replacement shock and spring combo, or should i just look at shocks? I'd like to get off not spending more than 400 bucks if possible as it looks like ill be spending around 550 for a cage, 140 for phr, 220 for lca's and such. My tires are V rated so i believe thats good to 149 mph. I'll have to check when i get home.

What cage are you guys running? Or did you get a custom fabbed cage?

What shock/suspension setup are you running?

I'm running the PRC dual spring kit good to either .650 or something similar so i feel comfortable with the valvetrain. if anything i'll just get a few replacement springs when i go down there. Thoughts? Comments?

 

I'm running Koni D/A's on the front and Bilstein HD's on the rear with Prokit springs. I also have an LG aluminum APHB, LCA's with rod ends and relocation brackets for suspension mods. I'll have the previously mentioned Strano 35mm bar up front before the PE. I could've saved alot of cash by going with Bilstein HD's up front too. The Koni's are much better, but far more expensive. I believe I paid about $800 for my fronts. The Bilsteins are about 1/4 to 1/3 of that. This will be the last year for me on this suspension setup and it will be for sale at the end of this year.

In your case if you have to choose one over the other i'd change the shocks 1st, and I'd get Bilstein HD's. then if I could afford it I'd change the springs. My choice here would be Prokits or maybe LG's spring ( I forget exactly what they're called ) The factory rear shocks are not only absolutely horrible from a quality standpoint, but are downright dangerous for ANY high speed work. They need to go away

I bought my rollbar out of another fbody that was being converted to twin turbo. I was told by the owner that it was a custom MTI setup, but have since talked to someone that cast some doubt as to his honesty ?? I have no real way of knowing for sure. It is a nice bar though

 

Mark I'll be dogless this year and so will have room for 2 extra. I'll be bringing 3 people myself. As far as trading steering wheels goes I'm afraid my wife won't let me. She heard a rumor that red WS6's are cop magnets

 

I'd like to go down there with you guys, but I'm just not seeing a roll bar fitting into the budget before then... I'd like to do my interior all at once, and I'll need about $1600 for the roll bar, seats, and harness.

 

I found the bilstein hd's on ebay for a really good price. also what about tokico or kyb? I read some poopy things about the kyb's but couldnt find too much about tokico. I guess i'll just get the bilstein hd's and when i get the cash look for a rollbar.

Nate