Which lid, and TB porting
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From: Fredericksburg, VA
Which lid, and TB porting I think I'm gonna buy me an air lid today. I'm leaning towards the carbon fiber MTI lid, but that article in GMHTP comparing lids showed some impressive TQ gains with the Granatelli lid. Any suggestions?
I think I'll take a Dremel to my TB this weekend, and see if I can completely ruin it with a home-brew P&P.
Any advice on what to do/not do, and things to look out for when I do this?
I think I'll take a Dremel to my TB this weekend, and see if I can completely ruin it with a home-brew P&P.
Any advice on what to do/not do, and things to look out for when I do this? 
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From: Kent WA
If I had it to do all over again I'd probably go with one of the smoked clear lids from TSP... they look really nice.
As far as performance goes, really a lid is a lid is a lid when it comes to aftermarket ones. I have an older SLP one and it fits great... doesn't look that good, but it performed well in that article you're talking about.
I may have to get me another lid soon since mine has a provision for the AIR pump hose, which I don't need anymore since I pulled the air pump.
As far as performance goes, really a lid is a lid is a lid when it comes to aftermarket ones. I have an older SLP one and it fits great... doesn't look that good, but it performed well in that article you're talking about.
I may have to get me another lid soon since mine has a provision for the AIR pump hose, which I don't need anymore since I pulled the air pump.
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From: norfolk va
hey hawk, i have the mti carbon lid and it fit's alright, but not perfect. In about 2 weeks i will be getting rid of mine completly and make you a good deal on it. Once i get rid of the maf completly i have a good idea for a cold air setup, that i think will work really well.
As for a throtle body check out scoggin dicky on the sponsers page thats where i got mine and it works just the same as evryone elses and is cheaper. home port jobs are cool but if you don't shape it perfectly you could end up hurting yourself in the long run. i would just spend the money on a cnc ported one and save yourself the hassell. But once again if you want to do it yourself i say go for it! If i just settled for what evryone else did i would still have an interior
As for a throtle body check out scoggin dicky on the sponsers page thats where i got mine and it works just the same as evryone elses and is cheaper. home port jobs are cool but if you don't shape it perfectly you could end up hurting yourself in the long run. i would just spend the money on a cnc ported one and save yourself the hassell. But once again if you want to do it yourself i say go for it! If i just settled for what evryone else did i would still have an interior
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From: Fredericksburg, VA
Originally Posted by Tranzor_Z28
If I had it to do all over again I'd probably go with one of the smoked clear lids from TSP... they look really nice.
As far as performance goes, really a lid is a lid is a lid when it comes to aftermarket ones. I have an older SLP one and it fits great... doesn't look that good, but it performed well in that article you're talking about.
I may have to get me another lid soon since mine has a provision for the AIR pump hose, which I don't need anymore since I pulled the air pump.
As far as performance goes, really a lid is a lid is a lid when it comes to aftermarket ones. I have an older SLP one and it fits great... doesn't look that good, but it performed well in that article you're talking about.
I may have to get me another lid soon since mine has a provision for the AIR pump hose, which I don't need anymore since I pulled the air pump.
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From: Fredericksburg, VA
Originally Posted by sardog46
hey hawk, i have the mti carbon lid and it fit's alright, but not perfect. In about 2 weeks i will be getting rid of mine completly and make you a good deal on it. Once i get rid of the maf completly i have a good idea for a cold air setup, that i think will work really well.
As for a throtle body check out scoggin dicky on the sponsers page thats where i got mine and it works just the same as evryone elses and is cheaper. home port jobs are cool but if you don't shape it perfectly you could end up hurting yourself in the long run. i would just spend the money on a cnc ported one and save yourself the hassell. But once again if you want to do it yourself i say go for it! If i just settled for what evryone else did i would still have an interior
As for a throtle body check out scoggin dicky on the sponsers page thats where i got mine and it works just the same as evryone elses and is cheaper. home port jobs are cool but if you don't shape it perfectly you could end up hurting yourself in the long run. i would just spend the money on a cnc ported one and save yourself the hassell. But once again if you want to do it yourself i say go for it! If i just settled for what evryone else did i would still have an interior
Yeah, what kind of ***** needs things like "carpet" and "seats"? Hell, if the NHRA wasn't so stuck up about it's "safety" and it's "rules", you'd probably have an egg-crate for a driver's seat, am I right?
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From: Kent WA
Originally Posted by Silverhawk_02TA
That's what I've always heard. But, check this out: http://www.motorsporttech.com/fbody_air_intake01.asp . There's a link to a scan of the GMHTP article in question in the second paragraph. The MTI lid dyno'd at 326/336 on it's best pull. The best pull for the Granatelli lid was 330/345. However, the MTI lid posted the quickest ET. Looking at the numbers for all the lids as a whole, along with ET's, what could explain this difference. Could it be nothing more than the +/- error tolerance of the dyno?
Personally, I'd go with a lid that is known to fit well (#1), and also looks good since that's the first thing people see when you open up the hood (#2 for me). Past that, the performance difference is pretty negligable, unless a lid has a proven track record of being a complete dog...
I have a CF MTI lid & I like it. It fits well & looks good, and was 2nd I think on the comparison. I'd wait & buy sardogs. It'll take you a week to get a new one anyway.
Now for the TB....I had Jantzer do mine. His turn-around time is unpredictable, but he's local (Oregon), does good work, and is cheaper than most others. Doing it yourself has risks. The IAC opening is rather touchy I'm told. And lots of people get into trouble trying things like halving the shaft & knife-edging the blade. But you can always buy another one after you ruin this one.
Steve Goodwin might have one for sale (if he got his from Janzter & Boyce doesn't want it back)
Now for the TB....I had Jantzer do mine. His turn-around time is unpredictable, but he's local (Oregon), does good work, and is cheaper than most others. Doing it yourself has risks. The IAC opening is rather touchy I'm told. And lots of people get into trouble trying things like halving the shaft & knife-edging the blade. But you can always buy another one after you ruin this one.
Steve Goodwin might have one for sale (if he got his from Janzter & Boyce doesn't want it back)
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From: Fredericksburg, VA
Originally Posted by Tranzor_Z28
Differences in ETs can be anything... hell, it's hard for any driver, even a professional one, to get consistent times (within a tenth or so) on a car they just climbed into and started driving that day. I'd say since the differences were so minimal, they can be chalked up to small inconsistencies on the dyno (not only with the dyno, but with the car as well), as well as inconsistencies at the track (driver doing something even the tiniest bit different can result in a noticeable difference on the time slip).
Personally, I'd go with a lid that is known to fit well (#1), and also looks good since that's the first thing people see when you open up the hood (#2 for me). Past that, the performance difference is pretty negligable, unless a lid has a proven track record of being a complete dog...
Personally, I'd go with a lid that is known to fit well (#1), and also looks good since that's the first thing people see when you open up the hood (#2 for me). Past that, the performance difference is pretty negligable, unless a lid has a proven track record of being a complete dog...
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From: Kent WA
I got my ported throttle body from Thunder Racing... a bigger sponsor like that is much more predictable. I don't have a problem with mine in regards to tuning, and I noticed a difference with throttle response right away... kind of surprising since I didn't expect much from that sort of mod, but it was one I could feel.
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From: Fredericksburg, VA
Originally Posted by WAHUSKER
I have a CF MTI lid & I like it. It fits well & looks good, and was 2nd I think on the comparison. I'd wait & buy sardogs. It'll take you a week to get a new one anyway.
Now for the TB....I had Jantzer do mine. His turn-around time is unpredictable, but he's local (Oregon), does good work, and is cheaper than most others. Doing it yourself has risks. The IAC opening is rather touchy I'm told. And lots of people get into trouble trying things like halving the shaft & knife-edging the blade. But you can always buy another one after you ruin this one.
Steve Goodwin might have one for sale (if he got his from Janzter & Boyce doesn't want it back)
Now for the TB....I had Jantzer do mine. His turn-around time is unpredictable, but he's local (Oregon), does good work, and is cheaper than most others. Doing it yourself has risks. The IAC opening is rather touchy I'm told. And lots of people get into trouble trying things like halving the shaft & knife-edging the blade. But you can always buy another one after you ruin this one.
Steve Goodwin might have one for sale (if he got his from Janzter & Boyce doesn't want it back)
I can't afford to have much downtime, so sending my TB out to a 3rd party isn't gonna fly. And dropping $300 on a new TB is a hard pill to swallow for what would probably be less than 10 HP. Thunder racing has ported TB for $150 + $200 core charge, but I don't think they'll take my TB since I've drilled the hole. Thread Starter
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From: Fredericksburg, VA
Originally Posted by sardog46
Yhea saftey sucks, and is expensive.........j/k i guess it's for the best, but if i could have it my way, there would be a lot less stuff in my car, b/c i feel safe even without the cage.
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From: Lynnwood, WA (North of Seattle)
Juat an FYI, TSP has ceased manufacturing those smoked lids for a while (don't know why) and the only ones you can find are on ebay or on the boards here, etc.
Also, for whoever posted about needing a new lid due to removing the AIR system, I did that on my '02 and just plugged the hole with a $7 plug from the link below. Took all of about 37 seconds to install when I got it.
Lid Plug
Also, for whoever posted about needing a new lid due to removing the AIR system, I did that on my '02 and just plugged the hole with a $7 plug from the link below. Took all of about 37 seconds to install when I got it.
Lid Plug
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From: Kent WA
Originally Posted by Rottluver
Also, for whoever posted about needing a new lid due to removing the AIR system, I did that on my '02 and just plugged the hole with a $7 plug from the link below. Took all of about 37 seconds to install when I got it.
Lid Plug
Lid Plug
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From: Lynnwood, WA (North of Seattle)
Originally Posted by Tranzor_Z28
Thanks for the link, Rott... I just purchased one of those.
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From: Fredericksburg, VA
Originally Posted by Rottluver
Juat an FYI, TSP has ceased manufacturing those smoked lids for a while (don't know why) and the only ones you can find are on ebay or on the boards here, etc.
Also, for whoever posted about needing a new lid due to removing the AIR system, I did that on my '02 and just plugged the hole with a $7 plug from the link below. Took all of about 37 seconds to install when I got it.
Lid Plug
Also, for whoever posted about needing a new lid due to removing the AIR system, I did that on my '02 and just plugged the hole with a $7 plug from the link below. Took all of about 37 seconds to install when I got it.
Lid Plug
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From: Kent WA
Originally Posted by Silverhawk_02TA
That's exactly why I'm avoiding the SLP lid. My AIR system is in a landfill somewhere.
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From: Redmond Washington
GM High-Tech ran a comparison test in the May 2004 issue. Top 3 at track were
Stock 13.12 E.T. 108.76 MPH
MTI 12.92 109.90
SLP 12.94 110.04
1/4 perf 12.96 109.73
I do have an extra T.B. that I purchased from Boyce, ported by Bauer Racing, it's pretty cool looking to boot, candy red. If I ever get my T.B. back from Jantzer I part with it.
Stock 13.12 E.T. 108.76 MPH
MTI 12.92 109.90
SLP 12.94 110.04
1/4 perf 12.96 109.73
I do have an extra T.B. that I purchased from Boyce, ported by Bauer Racing, it's pretty cool looking to boot, candy red. If I ever get my T.B. back from Jantzer I part with it.
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From: Fredericksburg, VA
Originally Posted by Steve Goodwin
I do have an extra T.B. that I purchased from Boyce, ported by Bauer Racing, it's pretty cool looking to boot, candy red. If I ever get my T.B. back from Jantzer I part with it.
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From: Redmond Washington
Originally Posted by Silverhawk_02TA
Heh. From what I hear, you could be waiting awhile. !
Not sure if it is good or bad news.
Since I'm waiting for those parts I've been detailing the undercarriage and engine bay. It's gonna look great but I'll probably never want to drive the car again, just leave it on jack stands with the hood open and look at it.